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        <title>Hard Data — MAC/DIY</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 17 Aug 2026 16:55:26 +0000</pubDate>
        <language>en</language>
            <description>Hard Data — MAC/DIY</description>
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        <title>Behringer ECMPRO</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2964/behringer-ecmpro</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 19 Apr 2025 01:33:16 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>a4eaudio</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2964@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>My Earthworks M23R is not working right so I have to send it to Sweetwater for several weeks. I sure hope they get it fixed, it was a pretty big deal for me to pull the trigger on that purchase.  <img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/plugins/emojiextender/emoji/twitter/cry.png" title=":'(" alt=":'(" height="18" /></p>

<p>I bought the new Behringer ECMPRO a few months ago but hadn't hooked it up.<br />
I took a bunch of measurements 2 weeks ago before the EW started acting funny. Wanting to get this project done I will try to use the Behringer to wrap things up. My measurement rig is setup to be able to make pretty repeatable measurements. The ECMPRO does <strong>not</strong> have a calibration file and is supposed to measure out to 40kHz. I figured I would measure the speaker and make a calibration file to finish things up.</p>

<p>What the F@#!<br />
Earthworks M23R $600 in blue<br />
Behringer ECMPRO $40 in red - NO CALIBRATION FILE<br />
<strong>I'll do more thorough testing and test distortion when I get the EW back</strong>, but just had to post this comparison.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/r0/z3kchb93qsr0.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>
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    <item>
        <title>Now that's what I call unit-to-unit consistency</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/3066/now-thats-what-i-call-unit-to-unit-consistency</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 08 Aug 2025 18:29:16 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>jr@mac</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">3066@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>Eclipse high Q 6.5" woofers.</p>

<p>Impedance overlay:</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/n7/rbp4t5cuo3s2.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Model overlay:</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/yr/3jle5m4kbxv8.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Sample 1 parameters:</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/ax/scv3tumqctgj.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Sample 2 parameters:</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/8c/3wdzbactyt0y.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Sample 1 has a production date of 8/19/15 and sample 2 production date is 1/11/16 so from two different batches. Kudos to Meniscus and Misco.</p>
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        <title>Seeking Narrow Dispersion Monitor Designs . . .</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/3059/seeking-narrow-dispersion-monitor-designs</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 30 Jul 2025 08:49:33 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>Steve_Lee</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">3059@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>Preferably 3-way, compact near to midfeild use like 1m ~ 3m distance.<br />
Horizontal/Vertical room reflections not permitted.</p>

<p>Are horns/waveguides the answer here?</p>

<p>TIA.</p>
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        <title>USB interface comparison - Steinberg UR22mkii vs Motu M4</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2012/usb-interface-comparison-steinberg-ur22mkii-vs-motu-m4</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 09 Oct 2022 22:13:15 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2012@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>I've been using the Steinberg UR22mkii for all my speaker measuring needs for the past few years and its served me well. I found a Motu M4 available locally though for a good price so I thought I'd take the opportunity for an upgrade, and compare the two units while I'm at it.</p>

<p>For an apples to apples comparison, I set the output of both units to 1.2V. This is somewhat arbitrary, but also provides about -3dBFS on the Steinberg with the input gain knobs at 12 o'clock which is how I generally start with it when I use it.</p>

<p>Checking the output on the Steinberg it gets a bit weird. It has a TRS output but was only providing an unbalanced signal. Tip at 1.2V, ring and sheild were 0V. Hmm, wierd, though not so much of an issue since I generally adapt the signal for RCA connection to an amplifier anyway. I didn't troubleshoot it at all, but did compare the Motu both balanced and unbalanced at 1.2V using both the TRS and RCA outputs available. The Motu did provide a balanced signal on the TRS output.</p>

<p>I'll mention as well that the input gain on the Motu appears to be a fair bit higher, as I only needed about 9 o'clock position on the input knobs for the same -3dBFS signal. As well, the unbalanced test used a different cable (RCA with TS adapter), while the Motu balanced and Steinberg test both used the same pair of TRS patch cables for the loopback.</p>

<p>This simple comparison was completed using Rightmark Audio Analyzer. Both units were tested at 24/96. Nevermind the typo in the titles.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/21/r1zdwlnvzh4l.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Frequency Response. Point Steinberg. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/8e/y6t2atd5t1n7.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Noise. Point Motu.<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/0t/e8tpwjg3m5ie.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>THD 1kHz. Point Motu. Steinberg is dominated by 2nd and 3rd harmonic, 6th+ harmonics are non-existent on the Steinberg where they do appear on the Motu. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/um/o4w02938n2eg.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>IMD. Point Motu. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/gw/8mhsiew6cquq.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Crosstalk. Point Motu. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/pz/ar9fb4zduac6.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>The frequency response of the Motu is unfortunate, the Steinberg is much better in this regard, but otherwise the Motu Excels in raw performance in this loopback D/A and A/D comparison. Both are very capable units, one is just a bit better <img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/plugins/emojiextender/emoji/twitter/wink.png" title=";)" alt=";)" height="18" /></p>
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        <title>Driver Testing Data Dump</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2480/driver-testing-data-dump</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 07 Jan 2024 04:58:01 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2480@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="https://www.htguide.com/forum/forum/primetime-a-v/mission-possible-diy/driver-testing-discussion/950349-some-random-driver-tests" rel="nofollow">https://www.htguide.com/forum/forum/primetime-a-v/mission-possible-diy/driver-testing-discussion/950349-some-random-driver-tests</a></p>
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        <title>&quot;Hancocks&quot;, VersaBox #5 build, Dayton SIG180-4 and AMTHR-4...</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2387/hancocks-versabox-5-build-dayton-sig180-4-and-amthr-4</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 25 Oct 2023 21:23:35 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>Wolf</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2387@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>This will be another VersaBox build, using the SIG180-4 and AMTHR-4.</p>

<p>Just measured the T/S for the pair of SIG180-4 drivers I received as a door prize in August.<br />
I am pretty surprised at how far off some of these numbers are.....<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/x8/5iie9wc3qwrq.jpg" alt="" title="" /><br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/c4/m4cbf6sgf47z.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>And the AMT, just as they really should be...<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/bc/23g059l8lbxh.jpg" alt="" title="" /><br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/s0/4eqddo4593hc.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>
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        <title>J-Box III Speaker Measurement System Review</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2951/j-box-iii-speaker-measurement-system-review</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 12 Apr 2025 20:01:41 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2951@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>I've posted an evaluation of the J-Box III speaker measurement system if anyone is interested:<br />
<a href="https://www.htguide.com/forum/mission-possible-diy/development-tools-techniques/957531-j-box-iii-review" rel="nofollow">https://www.htguide.com/forum/mission-possible-diy/development-tools-techniques/957531-j-box-iii-review</a></p>
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    <item>
        <title>Scott's Electronic Shelter</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2551/scotts-electronic-shelter</link>
        <pubDate>Thu, 07 Mar 2024 01:01:32 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>ScottS</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2551@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>I periodically have to remind myself that I'm not an electronics collector.  I prefer to think of myself as an enthusiast.  For at least the last 45 years I have been researching and pursuing the best sound I could come up with within a reasonable budget.  During that time, I've run researched, run across, listened to, bought, gifted, and sold a lot of gear.  If I had had measurement capabilities throughout that time, I would have quite a database by now about how various gear from different time periods, product types, price points etc. stack up with each other.  Thanks to Quantasylum, I have some measurement capabilities now, so it's never too late to start.  As an enthusiast, I have a hard time passing up opportunities to acquire interesting amplifiers.  They are also good to have around when I'm offloading a pair of my speakers as the recipient often also needs something to drive them.  In that sense, I think I run sort of an electronics shelter - finding items that are no longer needed, or maybe even neglected, and giving them some attention and maybe eventually a new home.  This thread will be to share some test results and observations about receivers and amplifiers I have run across over the years.  As always, I'm happy to have anyone else who is interested participate and/or contribute.</p>
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        <title>ESS Heil AMT tweeter measurements</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2779/ess-heil-amt-tweeter-measurements</link>
        <pubDate>Thu, 31 Oct 2024 22:21:24 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>4thtry</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2779@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>This will be a thread for posting ESS Heil AMT tweeter measurements.</p>

<p>I'll be testing and posting data for the pair of original AMT's I got from <a href="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/profile/LifeOfBrian" rel="nofollow">@LifeOfBrian</a> at the IowaDIY event.  (EDIT:   Please note that these are VERY old ESS AMT's, dating back to the early 1970's, that I am testing!)    I know that others also have the newer versions of these tweeters, so please feel free to post your own measurements for comparison purposes.</p>

<p>I'm currently gluing up a tower enclosure, using Menard's value shelving,  and I expect to start testing later next week.   I still need to run out to the hardware store and pick up some 3/8" x 7" long bolts and T-nuts to complete the mounting.   Hopefully they will have some in stainless steel.</p>

<p>I plan to do full 180 degree spinorama type SPL's, both vertically and horizontally, using Soundeasy and my dual channel mic setup.   Will also do distortion measurements and run impedance curves with OmniMic and DATS V2.</p>
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        <title>ASR review of Orian...</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2508/asr-review-of-orian</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 24 Jan 2024 20:07:26 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>Wolf</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2508@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/parts-express-orian-speaker-review.51246/" rel="nofollow">https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/parts-express-orian-speaker-review.51246/</a></p>

<p>Gonna need some aloe for that....</p>
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        <title>Hamornic injector testing</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2478/hamornic-injector-testing</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 06 Jan 2024 22:00:01 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2478@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>Mentioned in the IEC baffle thread, this free software solution allows one to inject any specific quantity of harmonic distortion to any recording, processed through Audactity. <br />
<a href="https://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Audio/Audio-Plugins/Harmonic-Generator.shtml" rel="nofollow">https://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Audio/Audio-Plugins/Harmonic-Generator.shtml</a></p>

<p>The plugin is pretty straight forward, just select the audio track, adjust the desired quantity of each harmonic, and apply. For a quick test I generated a 1kHz tone, and processed through REW for spectrum analysis .</p>

<p>1kHz pure sine wave, just to show that REW analysis is free of harmonics. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/k1/9psygm1b9c14.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>0.1% H2 added, other harmonics are still completely absent.<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/2k/xhwua6we73em.png" alt="" title="" /><br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/t1/hfcnum2fvbsb.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>0.1% H3 added, other harmonics compeltely absent.<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/cd/l8q1smct4nok.png" alt="" title="" /><br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/bc/xf7l2uvgzn64.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>So it does what it says on the tin. Now you can add any combination of harmonics to any audio you like and hear the result first hand. Best used with the lowest distortion equipment you have available. Have fun!</p>
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        <title>Dayton Audio TD25F-4 - some tests</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2481/dayton-audio-td25f-4-some-tests</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 07 Jan 2024 06:23:51 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>a4eaudio</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2481@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>The Dayton Audio TD25F-4 came up over the holidays when it was on sale for $11 or $13. Regular Price is $16.90. The discussion quickly ended due to its impedance curve.</p>

<p><strong>PART 1: IMPEDANCE TESTS</strong></p>

<p>Below is the published impedance curve by Dayton Audio. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/ae/y7i2cwq26ebw.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Given that they tend to pick favorable scaling and overly smooth their SPL curves, it is odd that they scaled the impedance from 2 to 10 ohms. I looked at a LOT of tweeters at Parts Express and Madisound and couldn't find anything zoomed in this much. Given that Dayton has the capability to design (in house, or outsource) good drivers, I wondered if this was even accurate. JR also noted that sometimes removing the faceplate and putting it back on can improve matters. So, I ordered a pair and played around with them.</p>

<p>Tweeter...<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/j4/301q9hum8j5j.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Without faceplate...<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/mn/v7owh6mmgrnp.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Just the faceplate...<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/15/6ixr7939d9m3.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Here are the impedances for tweeter #1 and #2. (Impedance measurements using DATS v3) Yep, that spike is really there. Axis are hard to read...impedance is 0 to 30 ohms and frequency is 20Hz to 20Khz.<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/mm/0avvgizxv414.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Here is the impedance for tweeter #1. Green line with the spike is stock tweeter. Yellow is with the faceplate removed and put back on, maybe a little tighter than orginal, but it didn't do much. Flatter green line (I couldn't figure out how to change the colors in DATS) is with the foam ring.<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/dc/d3zhjskhxe0n.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Here is the impedance of tweeter #2, same scenarios. Pink is stock tweeter. Orange is faceplate removed and put back on. Green is with foam ring.<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/j4/9k1zrfd8z5sb.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Here is impedance of tweeter #1 and #2 with foam ring.<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/lb/p81gt6wtbtyp.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>I thought the foam ring looked promising. So after all of the other measurements, I came back tried to seal it up even better using some DAP Kwik Seal caulk. It comes out white but dries clear. I also put a little gasket tape over the holes near the terminal connections. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/zs/op1l55p5nbq4.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>I only did this with driver #1 and the results were unimpressive. Hopefully I can remove the caulk tomorrow. Stock tweeter green and caulked tweeter pink.<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/wk/55wlkxactfe7.png" alt="" title="" /></p>
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        <title>Infinity Interlude IL40 8&quot; woofer TS specs</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2320/infinity-interlude-il40-8-woofer-ts-specs</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 30 Aug 2023 22:47:39 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>jr@mac</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2320@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>So I bought a pair of these from Fleabay for around $65 shipped, which is a good price for any 8" woofer these days.</p>

<p>Deep drawn stamped basket, plenty of mechanical throw, doesn't bottom out when pressing all the way down on the cone, bumped and vented back plate, 8mm top plate.</p>

<p>Not unattractive to my eyes - although I have always liked how the Infinity CMMD drivers looked, not too mention these are from what I call the "golden age" of Infinity (The early 2000s). Loved how their products looked and performed from that period.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/4b/rnmrl48xfb0v.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/pa/3hktpnh3bki4.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/7j/0zec15ofzxk4.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Nice modeling driver (with 0.8 ohms series resistance added - simulating what a 3-way crossover would add)</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/3d/smhfrb4yx1ma.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Also bought the matching 4" midrange/midbass drivers so could make a pretty cool Interlude IL40 tribute build.</p>
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        <title>Proposed coaxial with integrated PR.....</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2386/proposed-coaxial-with-integrated-pr</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 23 Oct 2023 19:15:27 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>Wolf</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2386@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="https://audioxpress.com/article/simulation-techniques-dinaburg-c2s-concentric-coplanar-stabilizer-analysis" rel="nofollow">https://audioxpress.com/article/simulation-techniques-dinaburg-c2s-concentric-coplanar-stabilizer-analysis</a></p>

<p>Very intriguing....</p>
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        <title>Do RS aluminum midbasses actually have shorting rings?</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2324/do-rs-aluminum-midbasses-actually-have-shorting-rings</link>
        <pubDate>Sun, 03 Sep 2023 23:26:29 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>Wolf</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2324@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>It turns out that I, and whoever else has stated that they did not, was wrong. I was not the only person. I had a brown-boxed RS150-8 that I tore down awhile ago. I shined a flashlight in the gap, and saw no copper gleam. I honestly thought that was the end of it. It was stated in early ad copy before that there were 2 paths in the motor, or no mention of it at all and simply said to be just a low distortion motor, but never conclusive proof to what those paths actually were. Further HD measurements of mine of the RS125-4 were shown to not really have very low HD, say -25 to -35dB, and furter bolstered my previous opinion that phase plugs were the sole provider of reducing it.</p>

<p>I know now for certain that they do indeed use shorting rings, and the phase plug is the second shorting path. If you committed my few previous statements to knowledge, please rewrite your data with this positive proof. Phase plug is not shown. My apologies...<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/ho/m3ie9j99uu1c.jpg" alt="" title="" /></p>
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        <title>Above what Frequency does Baffle Edge Diffraction become an issue? . . .</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2247/above-what-frequency-does-baffle-edge-diffraction-become-an-issue</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 07 Jun 2023 19:48:16 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>Steve_Lee</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2247@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>At what point does baffle edge diffraction become significant enough to do something about in the design &amp; construction of a cabinet?<br />
Lower frequencies, say below 300 Hz aren't really directional although baffle step is an issue but not the point of this question - or maybe it is part and parcel to it.</p>

<p>I have a baffle design formulating in my mind but need some real data/parameters to work with.</p>

<p>1).  Is it the point where the frequency's wavelength becomes greater than the baffle's width or at some lesser value?</p>

<p>2).  Does the shape of the driver's cone (Dome?) play an additional roll in determining this?</p>

<p>3).  Does the use of a waveguide reduce or eliminate the need for baffle edge curvature?</p>

<p>IOW - at what point/situation do curved/arched baffle edges become a requirement?</p>

<p>TIA.</p>
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        <title>Minimum phase is a waste of time  :p</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2073/minimum-phase-is-a-waste-of-time-p</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 24 Dec 2022 16:00:35 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2073@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>This is just a little write up on why minimum phase calculations and Hilbert-Bode Transform can and should be avoided when processing measurements for crossover design.<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dq7mLeQMint8V95oJ1i6GXxyYRFfCgXG/view?usp=share_link" rel="nofollow">https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dq7mLeQMint8V95oJ1i6GXxyYRFfCgXG/view?usp=share_link</a></p>

<p>This, along with my other document detailing the difference between single and dual channel measurements, should make it clear why this is my recommended process, and with VituixCAD in mind, why the instructions call for dual channel measurements and do not detail any minimum phase processing between measuring and processing the response data.</p>

<p>My other supporting documents (VituixCAD oriented) can be found here. Hopefully someone finds them useful.<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KDyECkAIVAuNEtKVobKmsfvtFczGqOQw?usp=share_link" rel="nofollow">https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KDyECkAIVAuNEtKVobKmsfvtFczGqOQw?usp=share_link</a></p>

<p>Any feedback is welcome, I will update the document if something is not clear and needs more detail or rewording, or if something is incorrect.</p>

<p>Happy Holidays <img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/plugins/emojiextender/emoji/twitter/smile.png" title=":)" alt=":)" height="18" /></p>
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        <title>Coming soon to a forum post near you...</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/2022/coming-soon-to-a-forum-post-near-you</link>
        <pubDate>Mon, 24 Oct 2022 16:15:21 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>jr@mac</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">2022@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>I have a pair of XT25-30, a pair of XT25-60, and a pair of Beast Mode. I understand those are not proper model numbers.</p>

<p>I will be doing in-box testing using one of the TM cabinets I just finished machining for heads up testing.</p>

<p>The big XT25 is not the same as the little XT25 with the exception of the extra magnet. Examining the data sheet it appears the motor has a lot more in common with the Beast Mode than it does with its little brother, so I am curious about its performance. It is also slightly more sensitive than the single magnet version. The Beast Mode advertises 0.1mm of Xmax, but even with the back cup removed in Brad's bigass open baffle speaker it held its composure reasonably well at Barbie Girl volumes - the Max Fidelity midrange was crapping out before the tweeter did. They both bowed out before the subwoofers did. It proved my moniker of Beast Mode this weekend.</p>

<p>Winner goes in the 2.5 way speaker, loser goes in the MTM. No reason, just decided that right now.</p>
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        <title>New Seas 27TAC/GB, some facts, some opinions, and some data...</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1077/new-seas-27tac-gb-some-facts-some-opinions-and-some-data</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 09 Aug 2019 20:17:37 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>Wolf</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1077@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[I recently purchased a pair of these from Meniscus. They are not on their website yet. I e-mailed my inquiry. Mark hooked me up.<br /><br />Seas website blurbs:<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=561:prestige-titan-launch-news&amp;catid=41:news&amp;Itemid=194">http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=561:prestige-titan-launch-news&amp;catid=41:news&amp;Itemid=194</a><br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=556:h1825-06-27tac_gb&amp;catid=45:seas-prestige-tweeters&amp;Itemid=462">http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&amp;view=article&amp;id=556:h1825-06-27tac_gb&amp;catid=45:seas-prestige-tweeters&amp;Itemid=462</a><br /><br />Here is the retail price and info on MAD, just for more information:<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/hard-dome-tweeter/seas-prestige-27tac/gb-h1825-aluminum/magnesium-dome-tweeter/">https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/hard-dome-tweeter/seas-prestige-27tac/gb-h1825-aluminum/magnesium-dome-tweeter/</a><br /><br />It supposedly is simply an improved 27TBFC. Copper cap where there was not one before, titanium (Titan line) voice coil former, a reshaped and carefully damped chamber, as well as being shipped/sold in matched pairs. I'll admit, the $91 price tag seems a bit high for production with a glass-reinforced plastic faceplate, but truth is you don't find titanium formers in very many drivers that cost less than $100. Normally they are aluminum, glass fiber, or Kapton. Seas uses a Corian material in their diamond line tweeters, so maybe they don't use metal faces often either. (I see Excel units are cast faces) The faceplate is really thick when it comes down to having plastic faces of any sort, along with what appears to be a metal hexagrid. The chamber cup and integrated divot remind me of those in the DX/XT line from Peerless, basically a sinusoidal curve of Pi length rotated around the Y axis. It's not quite a half-torus shape. Being that the TBFC is a bit splashy, and these have a copper cap to reduce HD, that is what tickled my fancy. More on the tweeter choice will come when I start posting info about the design path.<br /><br />My first run-ins on the trusty ol' S&amp;L WT2 left me perplexed, as this is the spec sheet info:<br /><img alt="" src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/bl/sfe4r7g9f5zj.jpg" /><br /><br />I see the spec sheet as 900 Hz and 13 ohms, not 830 Hz as listed. And these are what I got:<br /><br /><img alt="" src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/ah/1507mk8vca78.jpg" /><br /><img alt="" src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/25/mqkf3flvyosz.jpg" /><br /><br />The second one has a higher magnitude, but otherwise looks to be normal. Obviously, I would not call these a matched pair were it my judging. Mark said he noticed that as well, as he had measured them before he shipped them out and wondered if I would also raise an eyebrow. So- he shipped me another pair, with one that matched #2 above rather well, and another that appeared to be a bit 'off the mark'. I'm a bit disappointed in Seas for having these sold as a matched pair, and that there was this much discrepancy in a $180 pair of tweeters. I would think that this much shift would be unheard of at this price point.<br /><br />He also said they will be QCing drivers for better matching tweeters, etc, and including the DATS T/S runs on a nice sticker that you can slap on the driver magnet. The sample stickers I got look pretty cool. I don't know if this will be an offered service, or if this is something that they will be doing per order as they come for free. You'll have to contact Mark about that. Either way, I as pleased I was able to get a matched pair through their diligence. He let me keep and tear into the other pair that weren't as accurate as I saw fit.<br /><br />Here are the measured data of the second set:<br /><img alt="" src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/ay/3w88qg8gmbg0.jpg" /><br /><img alt="" src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/a2/hvoc99jhy3kl.jpg" /><br /><br />Number 2 and 3 overlay with only about a half-ohm magnitude difference at resonance, and the T/S are really similar as well. I imagine these will be really close over all.<br /><br />Being the recent practice I and others have had at adjusting the tweeters' specs, I used Bill's method of a putty knife prying up around the surface to loosen and remove the cap. This worked really well for these 2 tweeters, and I didn't have to saw a gap first as the knife fit between without adjustment.<br /><br />First subject, #1, had about a 1" cotton ball wedged between the inner side of the divot and the vented pole piece in the magnet. That was all it had behind the magnet. There is also a felt ring atop the pole, which is generally a good addition in terms of FR. As in my normal tweeter adjustment MO, I gently inserted this into the pole-hole, and added about a 1.5" square of Ultratouch 1" thick. Then I glued the cap back on with E6000 and awaited cure for remeasurement. This was the result:<br /><img alt="" src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/ie/q2o1kez950a7.jpg" /><br /><br />The Q parameters were a bit higher, as was the Fs, but this is a lot closer to spec than it was. I would even call this within tolerance compared to the 'approved' pair.<br /><br />Tweeter #4 appeared like it would be additionally perplexing. The tangential sway above resonance from the typical roller-coaster impedance was a head-scratcher. I did the same mod to this unit as I did to #1, and resulted in this:<br /><br /><img alt="" src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/d6/q1aizbl3raz7.jpg" /><br /><br />This had a shape that was more like the others. That 'sway from 1k to 1.8k was still there, albeit at a different magnitude. Well, I didn't think that tearing back into the rear and stuffing would change anything for the better, as it should look like the other 3 if that were the inherent cause. OK, time to remove the faceplate and see what I can observe...<br /><br />The surround is glued to the rear of the faceplate, so be careful if you remove the faceplate. Another note about the faceplate is that the polarity markers are really hard to find, and are on the structural cross-members. They are not on the terminals or the terminal supports, so I marked mine with a red Sharpie. They were also hard to see in the photo below, so they are enhanced for detail.<br /><br /><img alt="" src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/al/0lfgx1fqdwae.jpg" /><br /><br />More in the next post...<br /><br /><br />]]>
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        <title>T/S and Speaker Driver Re/DCR comparison</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1976/t-s-and-speaker-driver-re-dcr-comparison</link>
        <pubDate>Wed, 31 Aug 2022 02:02:04 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1976@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>Given the recent post about a high precision LCR meter, I had questioned how useful this is for obtaining driver precise DCR of a driver over a standard multimeter or some curve fitting estimation in software, since "sine sweep" implies an AC signal, and AC signal is a requirement for most audio gear that will be used with the software due to the coupling capacitors to remove the DC component.</p>

<p>I wanted to do a deeper dive on driver Re to maintain my sanity. From another recent thread, I had questioned how useful it is to get out a multimeter and measure the DC resistance of a driver over just letting the software estimate it. This test compares various T/S extraction software and their ability to extract an Re value, if that ability exists. As well, I compare the cabinet model of T/S determination using different software calculations of the exact same impedance data.</p>

<p>I took my Fluke 179 meter and measured a driver, the meter only has 1 decimal place of precision so +/- 0.1 ohm is as good as it gets, and measured 5.7 ohms. I have another low end Wavetek meter that also measured 5.7 ohms. Shorted leads measured 0.1 ohms. If we really want to dig down to the precision here, the measurement is +/- 0.5 ohms due to the resolution, so the measurement is really 5.65 to 5.75, and the shorted leads are 0.05 to 0.15 ohms, making the driver Re by the meter anywhere from 5.5 to 5.7 ohms. For the sake of this example, I am just using 5.7 ohms as the baseline.</p>

<p>I don't have a Dayton woofer tester anymore, but I have ARTA, REW, VituixCAD and SoundEasy available to me for this comparison.</p>

<p><strong>ARTA</strong><br />
The biggest problem I see is the Re estimation in ARTA. My measurement is clean down to 5Hz, and I zoomed right in on it, however can't see why the software would determine 6.28 ohms given that the impedance at 5Hz is in the 5.75 ohm range. Fail for ARTA, recommend manual entry of Re for this software. If the estimated Re of 6.28 ohms is used, all other T/S parameters are skewed as a result. Using a manual entry of 5.7 ohms, T/S is similar to the rest.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/bz/zgued9y9ey9e.png" alt="" title="" /><br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/pa/l2wdwdyqrc36.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p><strong>VituixCAD</strong><br />
VituixCAD doesn't do any estimation of Re, it requires you to manually enter this value. T/S result is very similar to ARTA when using the same values and measurements.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/d4/f4y0jzbtjl95.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p><strong>REW</strong><br />
REW is quite nice that it shows the curve fitting down to 2Hz, but also requires a manual DCR entry for Re estimation, its a bit odd but the estimated Re is not the same value as the manual meter reading. For consistency I imported the measurements from ARTA, the speaker was not re-measured. In this case, it came up with a value of 5.428 ohms, which is a bit on the low side compared to the multimeter.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/pv/6duu4xlzh2gc.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p><strong>SoundEasy</strong><br />
SoundEasy also requires manual entry for Re, so it intends for this to be provided from a manual multimeter reading. Again, for consistency I imported the measurements from ARTA so it utilized the exact same impedance measurement for it's calculations.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/tx/2kuqspp2ypud.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p><strong>How do they compare?</strong><br />
For comparison I entered all the T/S parameters into VituixCAD. VituixCAD supports pasting information directly copied from ARTA and REW, so the process takes only seconds here, SoundEeasy is the odd one out requiring manual entries.</p>

<p>Apart from ARTA's failure to estimate Re properly, all parameters modelled within 0.5dB of each other. Top to bottom is SoundEasy, REW, VituixCAD, ARTA (manually entered Re), then the solid line at the bottom is ARTA with Re estimation. If I learned anything from this exercise, it's to measure with ARTA, then use something else to determine T/S parameters as it's results are vary the most from the other methods. REW and ARTA are the only options used here that allow for estimation of Re, and while REW estimated a value on the low side, the cabinet simulation is indifferent from the others.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/i6/ek0tv7a1lq6q.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p><strong>But what about that meter resolution?</strong><br />
Right, I used 5.7 ohms here, that could be as low as 5.5 ohms. If I recalculate using 5.5 ohms instead of 5.7, this 3.6% difference in Re makes for a 0.3dB difference in sensitivity of the driver. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/3m/un0azpmhr9tj.png" alt="" title="" /></p>
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        <title>MiniDSP inverts output polarity with USB input?</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1668/minidsp-inverts-output-polarity-with-usb-input</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 20 Mar 2021 20:02:06 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>Wolf</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1668@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>I just find this appalling. Apparently the analog input is faithful, but the USB is not?<br />
​​​​​​​<a href="https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/introducing-directiva-an-asr-open-source-platform-speaker-project.20407/page-17#post-715932" rel="nofollow">https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/introducing-directiva-an-asr-open-source-platform-speaker-project.20407/page-17#post-715932</a></p>

<p>I'm obviously not up on the gear as I don't own one, but this would really upset me had I been using one.</p>
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        <title>Epique E180-HE tested in this month's voice coil</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1896/epique-e180-he-tested-in-this-months-voice-coil</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 30 Apr 2022 17:24:42 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>BrannigansLaw</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1896@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>A bit dissapointing, to be frank. The 3rd order distortion is a dealbreaker for me in what's meant to be a premium, state of the art driver.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/yc/xccwkga90tdk.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>this is at 94db, 12.1v</p>
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        <title>Passive filters for metal cone drivers</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1881/passive-filters-for-metal-cone-drivers</link>
        <pubDate>Thu, 31 Mar 2022 13:20:54 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1881@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>Nice article on passive filters for metal drivers here:<br />
<a href="https://purifi-audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/220211_R05-Notchfilter.pdf" rel="nofollow">https://purifi-audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/220211_R05-Notchfilter.pdf</a></p>
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        <title>Some capacitor  measurements</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1871/some-capacitor-measurements</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 12 Mar 2022 17:30:50 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>ugly_woofer</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1871@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/en/e8cktn8zsbc8.jpg" alt="" title="" /><br />
It's  cold outside today, and to be honest, I'm lacking construction  ambition so I decided to sit down and measure some caps.  After a quick perusal of my parts stash, went with 2.2uf value .  What I  have on hand is a Dayton mkp, Clarity cap, Audyn true copper, Audyn  plus, BP electrolytic,  Jantzen cross cap, Rival polar cap, and a Solen mkp.  I wish that I could have measured an Audyn q4, a Jantzen silver or superior, and a Bennic, but I  just don't currently have them in a 2.2uf.  I used a GW Instek LCR-821 meter with 4 wire leads.  Anyway here are the suspects, and I  will list the data in the next post.</p>
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        <title>Phono upgrade.</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1854/phono-upgrade</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:45:57 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>kenrhodes</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1854@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p><a href="https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/what-phono-pre-would-you-like-to-see-tested-next.30845/" rel="nofollow">https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/what-phono-pre-would-you-like-to-see-tested-next.30845/</a></p>

<p>Would value this forums input as well.</p>

<p>Thanks guys.</p>
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        <title>Some musings on T/S parameter measurements</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1853/some-musings-on-t-s-parameter-measurements</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 11 Feb 2022 19:30:29 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1853@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>Based on some recent discussions of driver impedance measurement methods and T/S parameters over at DIYAudio, I want to share some thoughts on T/S parameters and answer that age old question of "why are my measurements different from the manufacturers?"</p>

<p>Related discussion somewhat recently on this forum:<br />
<a href="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1830/box-sizing-for-sb15crc30-4-woofers" rel="nofollow">https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1830/box-sizing-for-sb15crc30-4-woofers</a></p>

<p>T/S parameters are defined as parameters for the driver "at rest". In other words, they are low voltage by definition. However, there is not a well defined specification for the conditions under which T/S parameters are measured, and there is not agreement from different manufacturers on the process either, so the inclination from a manufacturer may be to use whatever method provides the most marketable result.</p>

<p>Factors that influence the parameter results include voltage level for test, constant voltage test vs voltage divider test, ambient temperature and humidity, driver break in, probably more.</p>

<p><strong>Voltage Divider Method</strong><br />
The common DIY method for testing a driver is to use a "voltage divider" method, because it is very simply done by placing a resistor in series with the driver and then measuring the voltage across the resistor. This "sense resistor" is typically in the range of 10-100 ohms.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/k3/tp2ghvqu8lsz.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>The "problem" with this method is that the voltage that is present at the driver is not constant, the voltage present at the driver is proportional to the impedance of the driver. Easily observed in VituixCAD, the voltage across the sense resistor is a mirror image of the voltage present at the driver, neither are the original constant voltage sourse from the amplifier.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/z4/6dazqgiof2kj.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p><strong>Constant voltage Method</strong><br />
A solution to the voltage divider problem is to design an amplifier specifically for this task. What is required is that the sense resistor is placed inside the feedback loop of the amplifier, which will compensate for the voltage dependency of the voltage divider. In this operation, the gain of the amp now varies with the impedance of the driver in order to provide a constant voltage over frequency.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/1v/7vk1c1q3oujf.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>While this does "solve the problem", the question remains, was it even a problem to begin with. If we think about what is occurring in this constant voltage method, essentially the drive voltage is being increased when the impedance of the driver is increased, so especially at Fs the voltage is greater compared to the voltage divider method. So what if we just increased the drive voltage overall and keep with the simple voltage divider method?</p>

<p><strong>Elevated drive voltage</strong><br />
To illustrate the effect of a difference in drive voltage on a driver, it is easily done in LIMP. Use PN noise and turn off averaging for a somewhat real-time measurement, then simply adjust the gain on your amp. The difference will be more easily observed in crappy drivers, but you should see Fs decreasing as you increase the voltage applied. So with this in mind, what is the "correct" Fs, and does any of this even matter?</p>

<p>To answer this, I simply used a cheap 3" TB fullrange driver, no copper in the motor I am sure, and completed full T/S measurement at a voltage of 250mVrms, and again at 1.5Vrms.</p>

<p>At elevated voltage, Fs is indeed decreased by nearly 5Hz, but also Qts is lower, Cms higher, Vas higher, BL slightly lower.</p>

<p>250mV test:<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/yl/j92s0z3d7car.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>1.5V test:<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/dr/e201nt96xspb.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Comparing the cabinet model shows basically no difference at all:<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/bs/pipqyby76ebh.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>So what was the point of all this? The knowledge to be gained is that there are many factors that affect T/S parameters, and direct comparison of one's own measurements to the manufacturer data is futile, especially if focusing on single parameters like Fs for example. What does matter, is that the cabinet model is accurate, so any comparison of whether a T/S measurement is good or "matches" should be made using a cabinet model, since something simple as the test voltage can change the T/S parameter results, but the cabinet model can remain unaffected.</p>
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        <title>Distortion comparison - Dayton Omnimic vs Line Audio OM1 + UR22mkii</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1825/distortion-comparison-dayton-omnimic-vs-line-audio-om1-ur22mkii</link>
        <pubDate>Thu, 30 Dec 2021 22:12:11 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1825@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>Before I packed my Omnimic away again, I thought I'd take a quick comparison of distortion result between the Omnimic and my current setup consisting of a Line Audio OM1 and a Steinberg UR22mkii USB interface.</p>

<p>I always knew the Ominimic had a poor noise floor, so distortion measurements always had to be completed at a fairly high SPL just to get the harmonic products above the noise floor. It is just a basic integrated USB audio codec after all.</p>

<p>Comparing to the OM1, I completed sine sweeps at the same SPL, and adjusted the scaling and colours in ARTA so that the graphs can be directly compared. The SPL was fairly low, but just high enough to see something discernible above the noise floor in the Omnimic. At low frequency, the result is similar, but at high frequency there is a good 10dB+ advantage to the OM1.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/dx/8qarjzp5ghfy.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>As a double check of the noise floor, I simply ran the measurements with the output disconnected. There is probably even some further room for improvement on the OM1 with some gain adjustments to maximize SNR.</p>

<p><img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/8a/wmt8m06qwdyv.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Dayton could really do with an update to the Omnimic, include a better USB codec like miniDSP did with their UMIK, and update the software to fix some of the bugs and reduce some of the annoyances. For example I shouldn't have to rerun a measurement to change the smoothing, and I should be able to select "play from soundcard" without hitting the play button first.</p>
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    <item>
        <title>Dayton ND25FW</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1810/dayton-nd25fw</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 27 Nov 2021 22:42:16 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1810@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>These aren't my measurement, just sharing some data that someone else has shared with me.</p>

<p>ND25FW is a low cost dome tweeter with a nice small waveguide. As of today, it's cost is USD$22 making it one of the cheapest waveguide tweeter options available.</p>

<p>It was installed in a bookshelf cabinet along with a SB PFCR series woofer: <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/kw/jeecl1dg2cg1.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>Measured frequency response is very promising. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/0m/xl8ybdh47ign.png" alt="" title="" /><br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/jh/2ouuubiuatwz.png" alt="" title="" /><br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/zd/tlllqhig2ohe.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>You may be concerned that the high Fs of ~1400Hz is a problem, but it is a fairly small peak as this tweeter uses ferrofluid:<br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/ol/ltmenemopvz6.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>For a basic crossover example, a simple 2nd order filter was built. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/8f/nh19a0f459oy.png" alt="" title="" /></p>

<p>And here's the transfer function of that filter. As you can see, the impedance creates a bit of a bump in the knee of the response, but not enough to be too concerned about, especially at $22. <br />
<img src="https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/mx/a3pgwr4d4gtg.png" alt="" title="" /></p>
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    <item>
        <title>Upcoming Loudspeaker testing webinar</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1801/upcoming-loudspeaker-testing-webinar</link>
        <pubDate>Sat, 06 Nov 2021 17:14:58 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>dcibel</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1801@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p>Upcoming webinar for anyone interested:<br />
<a href="http://events.grasacoustics.com/webinar-lst-1110/?s=Email" rel="nofollow">http://events.grasacoustics.com/webinar-lst-1110/?s=Email</a></p>

<p>WEBINAR AGENDA:</p>

<blockquote><div>
  <p>Free Field Measurements<br />
   Acoustic Response<br />
   Quasi-Anechoic Techniques and the Time Window<br />
   Combining Near Field &amp; Far Field Data<br />
   Impedance Thiele Small<br />
   Loudspeaker Production Test<br />
   Rub &amp; Buzz</p>
</div></blockquote>
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    <item>
        <title>6&quot; Logitech subwoofer vs. 120 Vrms</title>
        <link>https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/1793/6-logitech-subwoofer-vs-120-vrms</link>
        <pubDate>Fri, 29 Oct 2021 14:24:15 +0000</pubDate>
        <category>Hard Data</category>
        <dc:creator>PWRRYD</dc:creator>
        <guid isPermaLink="false">1793@/discussions</guid>
        <description><![CDATA[<p><span data-youtube="youtube-kP3ARBWxeh8?autoplay=1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kP3ARBWxeh8"><img src="https://img.youtube.com/vi/kP3ARBWxeh8/0.jpg" width="640" height="385" border="0" alt="image" /></a></span></p>

<p><span data-youtube="youtube-ylYDTLT5DbM?autoplay=1"><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylYDTLT5DbM"><img src="https://img.youtube.com/vi/ylYDTLT5DbM/0.jpg" width="640" height="385" border="0" alt="image" /></a></span></p>
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