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F6 + RT1.3WE

edited July 23 in Announcements

Thought I'd start a thread documenting my latest design project. A 15 liter 2 way with the HiVi F6 midbass and Dayton RST28F in a Visaton WG148R waveguide.

I just finished gluing up the boxes, mounting the baffles for flush trimming and round overs. Next up is to machine the driver cutouts and rebates. Weather should be perfect for that this weekend.

Anyway, I know we all like seeing pictures so:

Turn2rjj45jr@mac6thplanetSilver1omoNicholas_23Gowajhollander

Comments

  • Yaaahhhh! Zebrawood🤘🏼

  • Please, let the F6 rolloff be allowed, even though it looks lousy, and treat the 900-1100Hz 'issue'. You'll be happy.

  • @6thplanet said:
    Yaaahhhh! Zebrawood🤘🏼

    I tried a little BLO/satin-poly/thinner mix on a scrap piece and it looked great! Nice grain detail and depth with a warm cinnamon color. At this point I think a satin finish is the way to go. Some species look great with a polished high gloss finish. This one seems better with a more natural satin sheen.

    The removable MDF baffle will receive a cool "slightly textured" finish I used on a recent project. It compliments the black driver frames and waveguides, but is pretty benign. Don't need a baffle finish to "pop" when you have a bright yellow woofer cone staring at you :p

    Silver1omo6thplanet
  • @Wolf said:
    Please, let the F6 rolloff be allowed, even though it looks lousy, and treat the 900-1100Hz 'issue'. You'll be happy.

    Thanks Ben!

  • You truthfully can xover the F6 at 4kHz if you so choose, but 3.2-3.5kHz keeps the wonderful midrange in check.

  • edited July 17

    Hmmm? If the F6 really has that great of midrange and likes to cross at 3k then there really is no point in me using an RST28F in a waveguide. Need to rethink this. I have a nice pair of RT1.3WE's... that could make a nice detailed speaker for under $200 in driver cost ;)

    Turn2kenrhodesBillet
  • Pulled the trigger, made the switch to the RT1.3WE tweeters. No looking back now LOL.

  • Baffles are fully machined, sanded, and primed with 1-2-3.

    First coat of BLO/turpentine/satin-poly has been applied to the veneered enclosures.

    kenrhodes
  • I think you've made a great choice!

  • Look Nick, the backs and bottoms are even finished :astonished:

    jr@macTurn2ugly_wooferRon_ENicholas_236thplanet
  • First coat of primer. Lots of sanding to do.

    Nicholas_23
  • @PWRRYD said:
    Look Nick, the backs and bottoms are even finished :astonished:

    Gotta love a pretty bottom!
    These are lookin great, I really like the veneer.

    Nicholas_23
  • Very nice! Especially from someone who said he didn't like to build cabinets! ;)

  • Depending on which Nick youre referring to , Im not opposed to naked bottoms Craig

    PWRRYD
  • Thanks Tom! I do seriously enjoy taking measurements and designing crossovers the most. Wood working is just a means to an end. That said, I finally have my table saw dialed in so well that, doing 45 degree miter joints is much easier than butt joints. A brand new sharp blade yielded zero issues (tear out) of the veneer. The corner joints are so near perfect that I didn't even use clamps. Just painters tape to hold all four corners while the glue dried. The rear panels are rabbited in, so there is about an 1/8" of exposed MDF around the rear parameter. These are built from some of that pre-veneered MDF my neighbor gave me. And Dave Fred's 3 part finish is fool proof enough that even I can succeed :p

  • Wow, there is a serious shortage of spray paint at the big box stores. None of them in a 50 mile radius has the color/texture paint I'm looking for. Luckily a small, local Ace Hardware had one can ($2 more than the box stores).

  • @Tom_S said:
    Very nice! Especially from someone who said he didn't like to build cabinets! ;)

    I guess I should clarify my statement above a bit. I still find it enjoyable to plan out and cut speaker panels on my table saw, as well as gluing up and clamping them together. What I'm so tired of doing is pretty much every process that involves my router (driver rebates and through holes, flush trimming, and roundovers), applying veneer, any and all sanding, foam brushes and rollers spray cans (all the finishing steps). If I could find someone close by who is good at all that stuff I would happily trade my xo design work for a pair of boxes here and there. Probably not going to happen 🤔

    kenrhodes
  • Looks like a promising project. My son has my F6 speakers (the Emeralds) at college. I think they will work will with the RT1.3's, much like the SB15's did in the Keramiskas.

    Keep an open mind, but don't let your brain fall out.

    Sehlin Sound Solutions
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