My jig/method for making bevelled/chamfered baffles...

DaveFred

Cut a wedge so the bevel line is parallel to the horizontal plane and attach a small stop block so the baffle does not want to ride backwards during the cut.

Attach wedge to a ply carrier board and make the cut.

Remove and flip wedge, cut other side.

ani_101

That looks good but I didn't quite get it. Can I get some snaps of just the jig? Does the jig has to be custom for each baffle or is there some adjustability?

Kornbread

I want to do that but yea, I'm lost also.  Can you post a video?   

dcibel

I don't understand what's confusing about it. It's a wedge screwed to a board with a stop, a good jig and pretty much all you need to know is visible in the photos above. Some care will need to be taken to make sure that stays flat against the fence as it's pushed through. You could attach a few more boards and box around the fence so the fence acts as a track, preventing the jig from falling over.

R-Carpenter

That's pretty good! I am too spoiled with CNC now days.

rjj45

Dude posted this also on FB, in "DIY Loudspeaker Pad", and I asked the (stupid) question there: "How does it achieve the front to back bevel when it's only tilted in one plane?".  (Or as peeps in the South like to say: "How do it know?") I got an answer (thankfully patient),then I saw, that the "bottom part" of the baffle, near the tweeter "digs into" the blade more, so it creates the deep cut there, then on the bottom of the taper by the woofer, it's higher up, so it digs into the blade much less. 
At least that's how I would describe it. Ingeniously simple.
One of my questions for the OP is that the finished baffle looks a little different on the left and right sides. Am I seeing that wrong?
re: @ani_101 ;
it looks to me like the jig has one main custom variation - the length and angle of the triangle beneath the baffle controls how long the taper is. You would need to cut a separate piece for each baffle. 

dcibel

rjj45 said:

Dude posted this also on FB, in "DIY Loudspeaker Pad", and I asked the (stupid) question there: "How does it achieve the front to back bevel when it's only tilted in one plane?".

Well, the jig is tilted on one plane, and the saw blade is also tiled, so there's the 2 axis of adjustment to make the cut.

Tom_S

It does look like his bevels are off, but not by too much. I would think if you use the table to index the top corner of the baffle or the wedge supports it's full length, the cuts should be symmetrical. I guess there's always the possibility the bottom of the wedge isn't perfectly level when cutting one side.

jhollander

It's not easy to get the length of a "stop" taper exact with any jig. My practice is to sneak up on the cut line and stop when the length is the same.  That means the taper width is not the same at the top of the baffle, but that is way  less noticeable imo