Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Who's Online (6)

Please review the site Rules, Terms of Service, and Privacy Policy at your convenience. Rules, TOS, Privacy
Get familiar with the reaction system: Introducing the Reaction System

New amp

edited October 2020 in DIY

So I wanted to upgrade from the Dayton 20w hi-fly amp to something beefier and going down the rabbit hole I ended up with a Hypex NC252MP module and a Ghentaudio case.

So it was only a matter of putting both together and soldering a couple cables.
Back loaded and exposed some bare metal to tie all the chassis to ground/earth:

This is the main event:

Almost there:

This is what it looks like all buttoned up:

I need to hook it now...



  • The only issue I had is that the shield of one of the inputs came loose of the crimped header.
    good thing I brought my crimpers from MX or I would be waiting for either new crimpers or a different connector.

  • Curious as to how this sounds and works out. I'd been looking at the VTV nc252p ($540) but ran across some negative reviews of VTV. At $240, a finished amp from the older version of the icepower 125asx2 can be had. If there were some kind of way you could compare the two ...

  • I was also looking at the VTV amps and their shady QC.
    Audiophonics has better reviews and price is quite similar, I was about to pull the trigger in one from them, but found this module for "cheap" and decided to DIY.

    The bad part would the wait time.

  • Quick impression after playing a bit of Black Sabbath last night, now I do have bass.
    The amp is dead silent when I pause the source, the Dayton was quite noisy.

    Turn on is silent, other than the relay clicks, turn off has a minor "click" I can hear in the speakers if I'm really close.
    I think this can be avoided if you somehow cut the "enabled" (opening ping 3 to 9 on j6) signal before removing power.

    I'm not concerned about it as is a low volume "click", but sounds like a good project for later.
    From the datasheet "enabled" takes anything from 3.3v to 12v with a low current draw ((Vpin – 0.7) / 22000), so a trigger jack can be added and a GPIO pin (3.3v) from the Raspberry PI should be able to trigger it.

    piCorePlayer has a standard setting to toggle a GPIO H/L on power button. So all I would need is to mount a 2.5/3.5mm switched jack, a bit of cable and be willing to ad another hole to the case (and bring external voltage to a newly built amp...).

Sign In or Register to comment.