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Get familiar with the reaction system: Introducing the Reaction System
New amp
So I wanted to upgrade from the Dayton 20w hi-fly amp to something beefier and going down the rabbit hole I ended up with a Hypex NC252MP module and a Ghentaudio case.
So it was only a matter of putting both together and soldering a couple cables.
Back loaded and exposed some bare metal to tie all the chassis to ground/earth:
This is the main event:
Almost there:
This is what it looks like all buttoned up:
I need to hook it now...
Comments
The only issue I had is that the shield of one of the inputs came loose of the crimped header.
good thing I brought my crimpers from MX or I would be waiting for either new crimpers or a different connector.
Curious as to how this sounds and works out. I'd been looking at the VTV nc252p ($540) but ran across some negative reviews of VTV. At $240, a finished amp from the older version of the icepower 125asx2 can be had. If there were some kind of way you could compare the two ...
I was also looking at the VTV amps and their shady QC.
Audiophonics has better reviews and price is quite similar, I was about to pull the trigger in one from them, but found this module for "cheap" and decided to DIY.
The bad part would the wait time.
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/power-amplifier/audiophonics-mpa-s250nc-xlr-class-d-stereo-amplifier-ncore-2x250w-4-ohm-p-14185.html
Quick impression after playing a bit of Black Sabbath last night, now I do have bass.
The amp is dead silent when I pause the source, the Dayton was quite noisy.
Turn on is silent, other than the relay clicks, turn off has a minor "click" I can hear in the speakers if I'm really close.
I think this can be avoided if you somehow cut the "enabled" (opening ping 3 to 9 on j6) signal before removing power.
I'm not concerned about it as is a low volume "click", but sounds like a good project for later.
From the datasheet "enabled" takes anything from 3.3v to 12v with a low current draw ((Vpin – 0.7) / 22000), so a trigger jack can be added and a GPIO pin (3.3v) from the Raspberry PI should be able to trigger it.
piCorePlayer has a standard setting to toggle a GPIO H/L on power button. So all I would need is to mount a 2.5/3.5mm switched jack, a bit of cable and be willing to ad another hole to the case (and bring external voltage to a newly built amp...).