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This all started awhile ago (2 years now?), wanting to try the Pyle frames out as a sacrificial pair and utilize the Peerless 2"/50mm paper-coned driver units. Most are polyethylene, and that set these apart. The cheap Pyle frames allowed me to audition them and know that I liked what I heard.
The Pyle frames had issues with durability, and assembly inconsistencies that made them not a completely viable solution. Stock they were horrible.
Then I sought out a better set of frames to continue with, and found the Talent SMH580 for dirt-cheap at the tent sale. I like the fit and feel of this 'AKG-esque' frame, and found it would be suitable and accepted 50mm drive units. Then- they were discontinued. Stock the bass was a little strong, and a little soft in the mids with polite treble.
And as you saw above if you clicked the link, PE also stopped carrying the Peerless drive units.
So, I was able to find replacements relatively easily/inexpensively....
Digikey as we know is a source for Tymphany products, and they stock them:
(The image on the item's online-page is not the correct image, and clicking the spec-sheet document shows the correct one.)
I was able to find a set of Stellar-Labs HP580 cans from Newark that looked very familiar, though a bit more red color is utilized:
AND- they were on sale (still are even) for about $18! Even the internals match that of the older Talent frames.
There are other options that are similar, like PreSonus HD7, available from Amazon:
...but their cost is too high for sure! $18 is a lot better, added the cost of the Peerless units making the total about $40.
1- I gently removed the cushions from the frames.
2- I removed the 4 tiny screws from the face of the driver mount to gain access, and that is really all it takes to get in there.
3- Just snip the wires close to the elements to remove the whole assembly to work on it. I would leave about 0.25" wire on the driver to verify polarity before soldering later, as this ended up being the same in position on the Peerless units.
4- Use a small screw driver to work at the adhesive around the stock driver unit, and it will come free with very little elbow grease.
5- Remove the sticker that faces the listener's ear. It's a 'quadrant of a donut' shape, and says "Monitoring Headphone DYNAMIC" on it. All this does is reduce the midband when in place. If done right and you prefer them in place, you can reinstall them. I liked them better without.
6- Install electrical tape across 3 of the 6 open vents facing the listener. This will lower the tuning and tighten up the bass. I covered the 3 holes toward the rear of my head when worn because my Sony headphones' bass holes were towards the front of my head. I figured they knew why they did that.
7- Glue Peerless driver elements in with E6000 (about 2-3 hr cure time), around the entire perimeter of the driver for a good seal and to prevent rattles.
8- Place batting in the cups. I used about 4" square, 1/2" thick pieces of wool batting, but Ultratouch, Dacron, etc could all be substituted. I even bet cotton balls would be a worthy method for this. You can't get it too thick, or the mounting plate won't reinstall in the cup.
9- Solder terminals after glue has dried, and reinstall plate screws and cushions.
I have a yearning to try adhesive felt around the inner perimeter of the cups as it seems like there is a midbass spot that might be resonating slightly, but I am really splitting hairs. The cups are pretty thin material and could be the reason, but who wants a heavy headphone?
I find the top-end to be polite, and nothing is offensive in relative output. These are comfortable, detailed, and sound much better than $40 has a right to. Everyone that has tried them has liked them, and Chuck is really thinking about modding some for his church sound crew.
I figured since the talk of can-amp mods and such came up, I'd post a project for the other part. The picture of the completed cans really won't say much. They look like those in the link.
I really like these!