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SMPS vs Linear Power Supply

edited May 2021 in DIY

I have one of the 400x2 t-amps, #aa-ab32313, that PE use to sell. Currently using a way under powered 24v 350w meanwell smps, but looking to upgrade the power supply and encase everything into a real amp like thingy.
Price wise, there's maybe $40 difference in $ from a meanwell smps to an Antek linear power supply. I like the way the amp sounds but wondering if it's worth it to go with the linear supply?

Doing a little more digging, it looks like an Antek linear power supply may be a little cheaper. Guess that settles that.


  • edited May 2021

    Most competent regulated SMPS supplies will have far less ripple and less 60Hz hum leaking through than a comparable unregulated linear supply. The benefit of the linear supply is long term reliability from far fewer potential points of failure.

    The meanwell probably isn't a very high grade supply though, so it may still have plenty of switching noise coming out of it. With any luck switching frequency is above audio band. Not all SMPS are created equal.

    I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening.
  • edited May 2021

    This is the Antek. I assume this is unregulated? Quality?

    It has that silly 10% distortion @400 watts measurements, but a more reasonable 230 watts @1% distortion. Says it's 90% efficient but who knows. To be on the plenty side, am I right in thinking 800w should be about right? 600 watt is quite a bit cheaper. The smps600 and 800rs should work, but read a bad review or two. Are they ok?

  • Unregulated = transformer -> rectifier -> capacitors, that's it. Most high power linear supplies are unregulated due to the amount of power loss as heat that is required to regulate the low frequency ripple at high current.

    I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening.
  • Meanwell w/out cover, t-amp (gremlin), and a huge but much quieter fan than that in the Meanwell.

    This is the aluminum cover for the Borberly tube preamp. Keep it, paint it, or something else?

  • That wood has some serious shine! I do like the look of an aluminum on top. It might look even better if it fit down into your frame flush with the edges. What if it was black? I have some of the aluminum perf covers I used on my little gainclone amp stashed away somewhere. If they will fit, I'll send you a few. I think I have 2 sizes. What are your inside dimensions?

  • I like satin black or dark grey also.

    Don, Donno, or "Hey you" all work for me, But never "Mr Johnson"
  • I prefer the linear supply. No way you need 1000 Watt p/s. The 600 is more than enough IME.

  • @PWRRYD said:
    I prefer the linear supply. No way you need 1000 Watt p/s. The 600 is more than enough IME.

    Using the MeanWell se600-48 12.5a, $89. It has a weedwacker for a fan so I pulled the top off the meanwell, and tossed the fan. Routed elongated holes for air intakes along the back and one side, then mounted a huge 28dba, low rpm fan (Mouser 472-4715MS12WB10A00) $14) in the front bottom of case. Using an aluminum divider down the middle to act as a noise barrier and direct air flow. The divider will be sealed against the top plate with a gap for air flow to the fan in the front of the case. Currently using some rubber feet that raise the bottom of the case ~3/4" but if I can find something taller that looks nice, will put them on there.

    Believe it or not, using the se600, the t-amp clipping light comes on fairly easy driving the Oregons. They should not be that hard of a load. I'd guess maybe 100 honest watts before it lights up. Should be more than that.

    Yes. I wanted to flush mount the top plate but not sure how to do it. Any idiot proof ideas on how? Probably too late now the wood is finished.

    Wondering about the hammered finishes in a dark color, or black? Hadn't considered a satin type finish on the top.

    Tom; trying to control air flow across the components and need to limit the amount of air entering through the top, as too much might tend to short circuit the intended air flow path. But yeah, that top does look good, as does the thick aluminum front plate = porn.

    The Borberly tube preamp is the same size, wood, stain, finish, etc. and however the top of this one gets finished, so does the other.

  • So your amp board only needs a single 42 Vdc supply?

  • I would investigate the option of buying the toriod transformer directly from Antek, some capacitors from Apexjr (he has some 15,000 uF 63V caps for $3.99 right now), and a 35A/400 PIV bridge rectifier from Allied/Mouser/Digikey for about $4.

  • @PWRRYD said:
    So your amp board only needs a single 42 Vdc supply?

    Yep. 48vdc. Smoke tested it and it came out ok.

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