I'm about to do that. I'm using particle board which is probably not the best but better than MDF which is so soft. I created a "Master" template and made two copies. I'll keep using those copies a long as I can. My project is NOT big so that may be enough but I can always go back to my Master and make some more copies.
I use this amazing material called "scrap". Seriously though MDF is great for templates due to the lack of any real end-grain, so consistency is great no matter how its cut so a ball bearing or bushing will run nicely across it.
Steve I have used a scroll saw for templates before. I would not recommend it unless it is a VERY odd shape.
I have found the material you are cutting will affect the template need. I have make 100's of MDF parts with MDF jigs (shellac coated end grain). Hit the cross grain on ash on the same jig and you will wish you made the jig from phenolic resin (the best template materiel).
I typically avoid plywood jigs as most plywood is not truly void free and stable enough for long term accuracy.
Thanks for the Scroll-saw feedback, Ken. (I haven't had great success using one yet - the blades are the issue).
The 2 things about MDF I really dislike is the powdery silica dust and how it dulls saw/router tooling quickly.
Cut some MDF and then try cutting hardwoods like oak and you need a new bit.
There are definitely different levels of MDF. Some should not be sold.
Scroll saws are great but need to be used appropriately. Thin material and slow, as thick ess goes up speed goes down. And not at a linear rate.
Awesome feedback guys, thanks so much. I do really like the master template and copies but also filling and coating the edges. I think this is perfect. Thanks, and excited for moving forward!
Comments
Normally, I'd use 1/4" or 1/2" Baltic Birch ply. If I really needed to cut many pieces, I'd be inclined to use 1/4" lucite
I'm about to do that. I'm using particle board which is probably not the best but better than MDF which is so soft. I created a "Master" template and made two copies. I'll keep using those copies a long as I can. My project is NOT big so that may be enough but I can always go back to my Master and make some more copies.
+1 for 1/4 inch Baltic birch
4-20 pcs BB for the hard edges.
20-100 have your neighbor with a cnc machine do it.
https://www.jfcomponents.com/
I'm a caveman using scraps of 3/4" mdf and a long pattern bit.
I use this amazing material called "scrap". Seriously though MDF is great for templates due to the lack of any real end-grain, so consistency is great no matter how its cut so a ball bearing or bushing will run nicely across it.
You can always coat the guide-bearing surface [of the material] with sealant or glue to harden it and make it last longer as well.
Do any of you guys use a scroll-saw to make odd shaped speaker template guides?
Steve I have used a scroll saw for templates before. I would not recommend it unless it is a VERY odd shape.
I have found the material you are cutting will affect the template need. I have make 100's of MDF parts with MDF jigs (shellac coated end grain). Hit the cross grain on ash on the same jig and you will wish you made the jig from phenolic resin (the best template materiel).
I typically avoid plywood jigs as most plywood is not truly void free and stable enough for long term accuracy.
Thanks for the Scroll-saw feedback, Ken. (I haven't had great success using one yet - the blades are the issue).
The 2 things about MDF I really dislike is the powdery silica dust and how it dulls saw/router tooling quickly.
Cut some MDF and then try cutting hardwoods like oak and you need a new bit.
There are definitely different levels of MDF. Some should not be sold.
Scroll saws are great but need to be used appropriately. Thin material and slow, as thick ess goes up speed goes down. And not at a linear rate.
Awesome feedback guys, thanks so much. I do really like the master template and copies but also filling and coating the edges. I think this is perfect. Thanks, and excited for moving forward!
You can say ^ again.