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Driver Cut Outs Before Veneer
Looking for suggestions on the best methods to trim veneer around a recessed speaker cutout if the cutout is made before veneer is applied?
Do you just trim it down with a razor and then lightly sand it flush? Or is there a better method?
I've kicked around the idea of veneering first then doing the cutouts, but then I would either have to go with no roundover on the baffle or buy a top bearing dovetail router bit which only gives a 14° chamfer for the midrange rather than 45°.
It seems, in my head at least, the best all around solution is to veneer after the cutouts but am not sure the best method to trim it around the speaker recesses without having it janky looking
Comments
Excellent question - I was wondering the sa,e thing the other day. I have yet try to veneer a cabinet. I am not much of a woodworker and bed liner has been my go-to cuz it hides my F ups.
I've done that before. After the veneer glue was thoroughly dry, I cut through the center of the driver hole with an utility knife. Then I used a light touch with a 1/4" flush trim bit in a trim router to get it close to the recess. You can get a 1/4" flush (laminate) trim bit to trim it all the way to the wood cut.
Not my favorite way to work, but it can be done.
In my limited experience its cleaner and neater to route after veneer because it is so easy to tear or cut the veneer oddly with a razor - a fresh exacto-knife is better but still not as nice as routing.
I route the hole for the driver and veneer over it. I finish the veneer and use a bottom bearing bit to remove the veneer covering the hole. I mount the driver, place a rebate template over it with double stick tape, and remove the driver. I then cut the rebate with a top bearing bit.
Javad had several top-bearing under-chamfer bits made. I bought one. Give him a holler and see if he has any left. It's a mean looking bit, but best way to do the rear relief after the cabinet is done and assembled.
Several people have used a 1/4" laminate trimmer type w/o bearing bit to trim the rebates back after veneer. It is just a slotted style bit, no flutes, and the tip is either ground down for height, or bought short. I think the Bosch bit was the one favored.
Other than that, I would think Ron's method could be adapted or adopted. The through hole is easy to make flush and the rabbet or rebate is the problem. A rabbet bit in varying diameters can save you here, and Freud as well as others makes a large diameter fluted bit with multiple bearing diameters in the case. Just change the bearing for a different width- as long as your hole is perfect.
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I cut the veneer last and found that carpet razor blades cut through veneer like butter.
I have used Ron's method as well and it also works really well.
I use a Whiteside SC28C bit, which is what Ben described, but a 4mm recess is about the minimum depth it can handle and excess glue squeezeout can be problematic. I honestly think Ron's method is the cleanest.
I got the Amana version of that bit. Works great in a little Bosch cordless trim router.
As above, the solid router bit works very well. I've even ground down the end of one to make even shallower recesses.
Had to laugh as I've done the same thing as Nick. I ground the end down to flush trim a port rebate.
You coming to Ankeny this year Ed? I haven't seen you in quite a while.
Appreciate all the feedback! Great suggestions here. Going to experiment with that laminate bit and Ron's method and see how it goes.
I've ground down the bit but the carbide bit broke a few times. I also bought the bit Tom referenced.
My favorite way is cutting all my driver recesses with a standard size rebate, then rough out a hole in the veneer and recut the driver recess. I can add tape the the bearing if I want a tighter fit.
I ran into that conundrum once. I figured I'd trim the veneer with xacto knife, but I chickened out and ended up mounting the port flange over top of the unsupported veneer. Fortunately that hasn't caused any veneer failure.. yet.