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Propeller Posts

Has anyone used these Propeller binding posts? They are more expensive then the Dayton audio BPP series posts that I would usually use on a high end build. The Propeller posts are made from of Tellurium copper and should be able to cranked down tight with the propeller wings. These are on sale at Madisound.

Comments

  • I haven't used them but they sure do look cool!

  • I have a set to be used. They have very sharp edges on the mounting plates, so be aware of that. I don't suppose they are anything 'novel', but agreed- they do look cool!

  • What?? You're not going to use Danny Richie's amazing Tube Connectors?

    Shameful...... ;)

    rjj45PWRRYDugly_wooferEd_Perkins
  • edited May 2022

    I guess he doesn't care how it sounds. =)
    ^sarcasm

  • Rather expensive for what is essentially a bolt and wing nut, but you could certainly do worse. Nothing real gimmicky about them, it's a binding post and I'm sure it'll do what it says on the tin admirably.

    I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening.
  • I took a look at Danny Richie's Tube connectors, I think the concept make sense to shorten the signal path thru the connection and reduce the volume of material for the electrons to bounce around in. They don't look very sexy though.

  • I'm just gonna call bullshit on his theory, maybe we can start a new thread "When good electrons go bad", it's just as reasonable.

    rjj45
  • @Shawn_K said:
    I took a look at Danny Richie's Tube connectors, I think the concept make sense to shorten the signal path thru the connection and reduce the volume of material for the electrons to bounce around in. They don't look very sexy though.

    It's complete nonsense to focus on a few mm of cable connection for a speaker level termination. Besides the fact that the crimp is still at the back of the connector, you'd have to jam wire in there with great force to have any sense of a decent connection on the end of the well, and all that is going to do is effectively make a higher wire gauge over than 1" of connection, which could easily be achieved using heavier gauge of tube metal, or a bolt. Very easy to have your wire 1mm short of the tube end and absolutely zero of the claimed benefit. How is a straight tube with little tension better than a banana which has nice curved leafs to provide tension when inserted? It looks like long term reliability will be rather low. Just another case of re-inventing the wheel without improving it. The fact that they don't look high end is the worst part as far as BS audio products go, it would sell 10x as well if it at least looked premium. If you want a better connection than a banana, get a speak-on. They're great and cheap standard pro-audio equipment.

    rjj45
    I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening.
  • edited May 2022

    @dcibel said: ...If you want a better connection than a banana, get a speak-on. They're great and cheap standard pro-audio equipment.

    I just gave the Neutrik speakON right-angled connectors a go on my latest build. I used the 4pole connectors for this bi-amped speaker build. I do like the way they lock on / connect, and expect to stick with these going forward.

  • FWIW I have specified a lot of high power connections in my career working for a Danish VFD manufacturer. 600 VAC at 500+ Amps and such. Sometimes ship-to-shore pin-in-sleave type connectors, sometimes Anderson Powerpole type connectors. That said... I love Speak-on connectors and use them in almost every project I build. I have never met Danny Richie or have seen/heard his products.

  • To get back on track, go ahead and use the propeller binding posts Shawn, they look to be solid.

  • SpeakONs were a brilliant invention! 2, 4, or 8 poles, locking, and self-cleaning. Never had one come loose in 15 years of band gigs. Before they were a thing, we used trailer connectors on the amp racks.

    dcibel
  • https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cinch-connectivity-solutions-johnson/108-0902-001/5929

    We use these for test points where I work. Connected to some of these thousands of times and they still work perfectly. They are exactly as Danny describes his minus the crimp. They look fine and are very cost effective if you like banana only connections. Might be worth considering if you think there is any Merritt to Danny's claims, or just want a cheaper than propeller option.

  • You might be able to get CMC big locking posts cheaper than the Propeller types. They suit the Dayton plates if you get the long posts. The short posts need some adaptation for the lock nuts provided to tighten down on thin plate stock. The posts tighten onto banana plugs, as well the other standard spades, bare wire, and such.

  • I think I'm going with the propeller posts. I like the Tellurium copper for lower resistance vs brass. I think some of these manufactures that make brass posts should consider advertising which alloy they are using. Free cutting 360 brass has 60% copper, some red brasses have around 85%.

  • Nick has a lathe I bet he could make some kick ass copper binding posts

     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • I'm pretty sure the CMC are not brass, but I could be wrong...

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