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Measuring sealed speakers

squamishdrocsquamishdroc
in DIY
Seems like a silly question but i'm working on a little 2.1 system for the garage - the mains are sealed and have a Dayton full range and the ND16 tweeter. Should I just pop out the terminal cup to run wires out to take sweeps or leave it in and measure each driver with the cup in place?


dynamo4thtry

Comments

  • kenrhodeskenrhodes
    If the boxes have stuffing in them you will probly be fine. Midrage coming out the hole and off the back wall is your biggest concern.
      Others know far more than me and are welcome to correct me.
  • dynamodynamo
    They look great!

    Id leave it in or plug the hole if you are going to high pass the satellites or are trying to model the roll off to the sub, as the cup hole will change the LF roll off measurement of the satellite and change the impedance measurement which will change the effect of a cap put on the woofer as an HPF in your model vs how it will be with the hole plugged.
  • ani_101ani_101
    edited January 2020
    i drill a small hole and run wires through it to measure. use caulk to seal if you are paranoid, it will work without sealing too. of course this is if the box is not finished.... if i am using the big binding post and not a terminal cup then then wires  go through the hole for the post...
  • ani_101ani_101
    make a plug for the terminal cup and drill a hole for the wires in the plug. the plug can be held in place with masking tape
    rjj45
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Pull out the terminal cups, run your wires out that hole for measurements, and roll up a towel and shove it in the hole.  Your sealed box will be more aperiodic in nature ;)
  • jhollanderjhollander
    I've taped over the TC hole with wires running out, made a dummy TC cup with a small wire hole out of MDF. Loosened the TC cup enough to sandwich finger tip caulk and wire in the opening then used the TC to squash it back together.  When PE had the buyout TC, I drilled a hole through it for wires, then thought better of it and made a dual banana plug TC cup out of it.
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • dcibeldcibel
    edited January 2020
    PWRRYD said:
    Pull out the terminal cups, run your wires out that hole for measurements, and roll up a towel and shove it in the hole.  Your sealed box will be more aperiodic in nature ;)

    Towel or tape over the hole is a fine idea. Here's an idea I had for minimal leakage.


    4thtryani_101
    I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening.
  • squamishdrocsquamishdroc
    Thanks for all the comments guys - i'm using that small Lepai plate amp to power these and it is supposed to have a 100hz high pass to the speakers. So I will just remove the TC and plug the hole👍
  • squamishdrocsquamishdroc
    Took some measurements the other night - I didn't really model these before I built them as I already had the mids here and figured they should work out with the little tweeter to help fill in the top end. Well seems like this mid doesn't really need any help with the top end - lol.



    So I did a bit of playing around in Xsim to try and squash the huge peak at 15k and just have the tweeter sort of fill in from 5k and up but could not get a decent response curve. These are just going to be in the garage so i'm not looking for the perfect response but don't want them to suck at the same time. I was able to get a ok result but the tweeter is crossed too low. Specs say 3.5k and up - here is what I have now - any suggestions or advice to if I am doing something wrong? 





  • jr@macjr@mac
    A small coil on the tweeter to help pull down the hump at ~1500 will help out in numerous ways. 
    I have a signature.
  • jr@macjr@mac
    Sorry, 2500, not 1500.
    I have a signature.
  • dcibeldcibel
    edited January 2020
    You'll probably have much better results with a 2nd order filter, at least on the woofer. You might try keeping the tweeter with just the cap with a rolloff starting at 8-10kHz, if that doesn't look well try 2nd order filter there instead.
    I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening.
  • jhollanderjhollander
    I'd notch the woofer/ split the inductor.  Something like this.


     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • squamishdrocsquamishdroc
    jr@mac said:
    A small coil on the tweeter to help pull down the hump at ~1500 will help out in numerous ways. 
    Thanks JR - that worked👍👍
  • squamishdrocsquamishdroc
    jhollander said:
    I'd notch the woofer/ split the inductor.  Something like this.


    Thanks for the idea John - I am trying to keep this a simple build. I will sacrifice a bit of sound quality in the interest of a simple x-over.
  • squamishdrocsquamishdroc
    Put a small coil on the tweet and changed the other values to what I had here - turned out alright. I can just eq out the hump at 2700. 



    The little Lepai plate amp is ok - not a huge amount of output but good enough for the garage. The power brick it comes with is rated at 60 watts. It does have a turn on/off pop - doesn't seem to make a difference if it is plugged into a source or not. 
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