2007 BMW 335i

joeybutts

So, inadvertently I've begun the front stage to Natalie.  I had stumbled on the 10f a long time ago and made that the focus of my front stage for what feels like eons.  Then by chance saw the Thiel replicas of the 10f and the price was too good to pass up, even if they don't pan out.  So now things have been set in motion that can't be stopped. 

Eric hooked me up a while back with a set of Dynaudio MW180's for the underseat woofers which should be a beautiful fit for the 60-250 range (I'm hoping).

The substage has been in the car a while now and I absolutely love it, nailed it in every way I was hoping.  

So that leaves the one place I am always unsure and ignorant about and that is the tweeter.  I feel this is always where I get stuck.  The Thiel H1715 is also on sale for a very respectable price and was wondering if you guys think this is a no brainer or if I should head elsewhere, maybe an SB tweeter or another SS or ....... supposedly the H1715 is a clone of the Seas 27TTFC.... The tweeter is in the sail and the woofer is only a foot or so away in the middle of the door.  

I'm unsure where I'm gonna go as far as head unit and/or DE-EQ/DSP but I'll be using something.... Just need to decide.

Thanks for any help and eager to get this rolling.

dynamo

With a car like that I personally would leave the OE head unit (likely decent quality - probably Blaupunkt) and do a module like a JL Cleansweep or the newer FiX. 

joeybutts

I'm really thinking the same as all I use is BT connection and maybe will go CD for some things.  Also like the idea of not having any clue the audio is as good as it is (should be ).

I've been scouring tweeters and made a list, keeping price about or under $200/pr.  I'll post them up as soon as I find the list....

Ed_Perkins

Will a full size (104 mm) tweeter like the Thiel fit in your sail panel?  My favorite tweeter for limited space applications has been the SB26STCN  with a 72 mm flange.  In extreme cases I've removed the flange for an extremely small footprint.  I've also used the Wavecor TW022WA04 (65 mm flange), but only when Solen has them on sale.

joeybutts

Well shoot, big oversight on my part!  Yeah, I have a maximum between 2.25-2.5" (call it a maximum of 65mm) in the sail, obviously depth dependent as well.  

Ed, any idea what you were left with diameter wise after removing the flange on the SB26?  

Ed_Perkins

I'll measure them today.  I also have a de-flanged TW022WA04 I can measure.  You can get a good estimate by looking at their spec pdfs and checking the rear chamber measurement.  That would be 46 mm for the SB26 and 40 mm for the TW022.  

joeybutts

Thanks Ed!  I've been wanting to use both of those manuf in something and this gives me a reason.  Which sonically would you recommend?  They will be just about on axis, probably about 15* out.

joeybutts

Actually, what about the CSS LD22?  I think with some slight massaging I can get that to fit in the sail with almost no problem.......... and the price is almost exactly what I was looking to spend....

ani_101

It's a great tweeter, I have it crossed around 2.2k. but I don't know much about car audio

joeybutts

With the 10f I think I have a big window for the tweeter high pass, so that should be fine.

So I've got sb26, ld22 and tw022 as options....

Ed_Perkins

ani_101 said:

It's a great tweeter, I have it crossed around 2.2k. but I don't know much about car audio

Just think home audio, but the room has been shrunk down to 6' by 8',  your're sitting off axis in front of the left speaker and about 3 inches from a highly reflective side wall.     Lovely set up!   

Ed_Perkins

joeybutts said:

Actually, what about the CSS LD22?  I think with some slight massaging I can get that to fit in the sail with almost no problem.......... and the price is almost exactly what I was looking to spend....

I see a lot of physical similarities between the LD22 and TW022WA04.  I think the LD22 would work great if it fits.

joeybutts

Well hell, let's roll with it.  Try not to over think it.
Thanks fellas.  Will update.

joeybutts

LD22s en route. 

Also, do believe I am going to swap out the HU.... the E90's have a head unit notorious for screen fading once it gets past 50*  so I can barely ever read the screen and it's really annoying.  It will also make wiring the rest of the system much easier.  Probably go with a high end DD or something that fits the parts I have already acquired....definitely something with all the audio goodies.

joeybutts

Two Arc Audio KS300.4s V2 headed my way for power.  
Head unit time.  Weighing three options:
1.  Older true 4way active head unit.
2.  New 3way active with woofers and subwoofer y'ed off the rca and on the LPF of the head unit.
3.  3way active head unit fed through a miniDSP delivering all 8 channels.
If you have an opinion, feel free to leave it here and why.  

squamishdroc

joeybutts said:

Two Arc Audio KS300.4s V2 headed my way for power.  
Head unit time.  Weighing three options:
1.  Older true 4way active head unit.
2.  New 3way active with woofers and subwoofer y'ed off the rca and on the LPF of the head unit.
3.  3way active head unit fed through a miniDSP delivering all 8 channels.
If you have an opinion, feel free to leave it here and why.  

No school like the old school - DEX P99, Denon DCT etc 

squamishdroc

joeybutts said:

Two Arc Audio KS300.4s V2 headed my way for power.  
Head unit time.  Weighing three options:
1.  Older true 4way active head unit.
2.  New 3way active with woofers and subwoofer y'ed off the rca and on the LPF of the head unit.
3.  3way active head unit fed through a miniDSP delivering all 8 channels.
If you have an opinion, feel free to leave it here and why.  

Or you could scrap almost everything and go for this setup

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-bEZvgbtKMPJ/p_130DXTP99R/Pioneer-DXT-P99RS-80.html

dcibel

The head unit doesn't need to have much in the way of audio features if you go with the minidsp C-DSP, just good clean output.

joeybutts

WOAH.  No way Squamish!  That's absurd.  I did find a Denon DCT going for a bit over $200 which would be pretty cool.....

dcibel, could I get away with just the 6x8?

dcibel

C-DSP 6x8 has 4 analog in (+2 via SPDIF) which can be processed however you like into 8 analog out, so you tell me if that works for what you want to do. Thumb through the manual for it, it's a powerful unit. You can save 4 presets that can be selected via the remote so you can make on the fly comparisons of any EQ changes you make.

joeybutts

I guess that will do what I need, a true 4-way (tweeter, mid, mid bass woofer, subwoofer).  

That's pretty cool being able to save variations.  I dig.  Thanks!!

6thplanet

That DEX piece is fuckin sweet! I really don't see why car audio manufacturers don't incorporate what the miniDSP does into thier headunits. 

joeybutts

Well shit, if the minidsp will do everything, I guess I dont need to get anything crazy for a head unit!  I'll need to start looking at other options,and am thrilled this part can possibly come out under 5 or 600...

dcibel

Yep, you don't need any filters or EQ in the head unit, just good clean output.

6thplanet

Yup, the miniDSP is pretty versatile. I plan on using one myself. Just need the miniDC power supply for use in a vehicle.

dcibel

No, they make specific car audio models (the C-DSP being discussed here) that you just plug 12vDC straight in along with the remote enable signal from the head unit.

The miniDC is only required if you want to use a standard 2x4 in a vehicle.

joeybutts

Yeah, I'm gonna go with the $275 c-dsp 6x8.  Figure I can find a nice new head for under 400 easily, hopefully more like 300-350....  if the right deal pops up on a used one could go that route....

6thplanet

Dig, I have a standard 2x4, so that's what I'm in for. 

squamishdroc

dcibel said:

Yep, you don't need any filters or EQ in the head unit, just good clean output.

Alpine 7901 it is then