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How to keep stain from bleeding

Put together a bass bin with two different woods, popular and edge glued pine and going to use two different stains.  It will be the bottom end for the Sadies which are also made from the same wood.  On those, the wood was stained before the box was assembled so there was no bleeding from one wood to the other.  But you know how it goes, got in a hurry putting this box together. 
Now how do I keep the stains from bleeding from one wood to the other?   


  • If one wood will be natural mask and seal that first. Pull the tape, retape and scribe the edge with a dull knife. The idea is to create a groove where the stain says.  You can always use a thin black marker over the bleed through.  I've had better luck with gel stains where I can paint an edge
     John H, thanks to JP I did get that email
  • Both will be stained and one is much lighter than the other.  Blue painter's tape or is there something better?  Used a paint stick marker on another project where the paint bled through and I'm not a fan of the look, but it is an option.  
    What about a v-groove router bit and what would the procedure be with it?
    The inner box was scrap pieces of ½" mdf and scarce bracing, which was fine knowing the walls were going to be laminated.  Unfortunately, I did not know we were "in the middle of a nationwide lumber shortage" and the only edge glued pine available was 1¼" thick.  So yea, don't think the box will be flexing much.       
  • 1&1/4" thick??? Stair treads?
  • Nope, not stair treads. 
    Wanted the standard edge glued stuff which is around 5/8" thick but this was the only piece on the shelf in Menards.  They were also out of fence pickets which was the other reason for driving to the next town to shop.  Anyhow, it's bloody heavy.            
  • Ok, going to tape (the good green stuff) like John says starting with the lighter stain, then clear that before going onto the darker stain.  
  • Just saw your question.  Might want to test your tape first.  My frog tape did OK with water based paint but not good with solvent based paint.  Plus the frog tape seemed to have a shelf life.  My wife bought some Duct brand blue tape that was horrible. I like the blue 3M stuff.
     John H, thanks to JP I did get that email
  • Too late. 
  • Hope it did OK
     John H, thanks to JP I did get that email
  • If not, I'll try the v-groove bit. 
  • There is a little bleed through but acceptable. 
    This suks.  I know one of the stains is Minwax golden pecan.  The cabinets, trim, and woodwork in the house are golden pecan, but I don't remember what the other darker stain is.  As luck would have it, there are eight open cans of dark stains.  All of them close.  Staining a small piece of scrap helped narrow it down to four but still not sure.  I have got to start writing this stuff down.           
  • Before ... 
    and after. 
    Still need to final sand/buff/wax but all that poly probably needs a week or two to completely dry. 
    Going to build the crossover as two separate speakers.  The bookshelf is small and light enough to go wherever, or it can accompany its mate.  It's hot in the trailer with no heat or air, so measurements may wait for a cooler day, then preliminary crossover work can begin. 
    Should the front plane of the upper speaker be set back from that of the bin?  Also wonder about rotating or straight ahead placement.         
    I would like to bring the notakhanspires to a meet and get everyone's opinion, but they are just too big and heavy.  The sheer heft of them caused me to miss some work over a hurt back.  I've been thinking about rebuilding them in this piecemeal fashion.             
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