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Don't do this.
I'm building a 3 way around the 8" MCM woofers. It's kind of a complicated cabinet that I will document when the system is done. In the meantime, the front baffle is comprised of a picture frame made from a sandwich of 3/4" solid walnut, mahogany veneer, 1/4" maple, and another layer of mahogany veneer. Glued to that is the front baffle of 3/4" walnut. Yesterday I glued and clamped the baffle with all the driver cut outs to the picture frame layer which had already been glued to the box. Shortly after I got done I realized it was on upside down. I quickly unclamped everything and popped it loose with a hammer and turned it around. I'll try not to do that again. Today I cut some nearly 1 1/2" 45 degree bevels around the front baffle. That's when I discovered something you shouldn't do. Don't put biscuit joints near the edge of a front panel you want to bevel.
It's a pity that I exposed the biscuits because the end grain on the bevels and the birch mahogany sandwich would have been perfect. Looks like I'll be learning to do some inlay work.
Ron
Comments
Looks good to me, the exposed biscuit actually adds an interesting focal point...
I think it would looknsweet with a pearloid inlay. I have inlaiednleaves and decorative scrolls in the past. Really is simple of you take it one step at a time.
I'd go for it if they were all the same but they're not.
Rare set of mistakes by a fine craftsman. Thanks for sharing!
In my woodshop, I am usually thinking "How can this be screwed up, and can I recover?"
On one project, I had to cut a new baffle 4 times... lol
The inlays were a bit of work but they came out just fine. I cut the inlays and made a jig from 1/2" plywood so I could use a small top bearing bit to cut the inset for the inlay. I used a chisel and various Exacto knife blades to remove the wood left in the corners.
Last night I tried to put the drivers in one of the boxes and discovered the woofer wouldn't fit. They dropped right in before I put a coat of Watco Danish oil on the front baffles. It must have made the wood swell so now I have to try to recut the rebates without messing things up. It's always something.
Ron
I would verify that it is dry before recutting. If this is a tempirary swell it may go away and stay gone.
I just got back from recutting the rebate. My original template was a little oversize so I'd put a couple of layers of tape on the bearing of the router bit and the hole was a nice slip fit. The top and bottom of the hole were slightly undersize but the width was much worse. The woofer has a little play in the hole now but that's probably OK with a solid wood baffle.
Ron
This, in my opinion, is one of the most frustrating parts of speaker building.
Everything fits. :-)
Now it's on to getting the finish whipped into shape and then it will be crossover time.
Ron
Nice compact 3-way, Ron!
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Beautiful Ron !
Oh for my successes to look like your mistakes... Beautiful work!
I'd give these a solid 10 for craftsmanship. The inlays give the baffle a very distinctive look that blends well with the drivers and frame. Good thing you accidentally exposed those biscuits.
Looks great!
Great looking speakers! I hope to see them in person some day.
Should the title of this thread be "Do this, if you can".
Sehlin Sound Solutions
Thanks everyone. When they're done they'll be going to a friend in California. I have another pair of the MCM woofers so I may build another pair in time.
Ron
That was an excellent idea, I would not have thought of that solution, and I would have just made a new baffle. Nice save.
nice looking speakers
I'm curious, what are the dimensions, and your targets for Xovers? thx
The external dimensions are 10 1/2" D x 12" W x 22 1/2" T with an internal volume of 1 cu. ft. I'll probably cross at 1K and 5K depending on measurements.
Ron
Beautiful cabinets Ron! Your cabinetry skills always leave me in awe.
I predict this will be an exceptional speaker design that sounds as good as it looks.
Jim
Your work is always so super clean and tasty, it's a real aspirational goal for me.