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How to Unglue Glue?
Made a boo boo. Left some pressure on a clamp that was holding a corner straight and while it was drying, the clamp pulled the corner out of alignment in the opposite direction. After two days, it's good and dry. Is there a way to unglue the corner without destroying the wood. Had to makeshift some templates to to cut vents into the piece and not wanting to do it again.
This is before cutting the vents and gluing the sides on.
Elmers wood glue.
Comments
Heat?
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I would try a heat gun, may soften it enough to get it apart.
Beer and a good cry?
Thought about that ...
I know Titebond II yellow wood glue is water resistant, but Elmers yellow wood glue is not. You could try laying a wet towel along the length of the joint to see if the water would wick into the joint far enough to loosen it up.
Wood might expand though. Curious what you do and how it turns out. Good luck
I use iron-on veneer, and I'm quite sure that heat will melt yellow glue.
I'd be inclined to use an iron to heat up the joint, then use a putty knife to scrape out the gooey stuff. Repeat.
Should work... Maybe...
Watched a vid where the guy was able to undo simple joints, even a dovetail, sort of ... with a heat gun. Tried the hot air wand on the soldering station. Plenty of heat but not enough flow to get the entire joint hot. Will have to pick up, or order a heat gun this weekend.
you can put in a oven without the electrical components
Fingers crossed I can get the one joint apart, so the whole enchilada doesn't have to be cleaned up and reglued.
Was able to get the off corner apart with a $22 heat gun. Heat gun let out smoke after using, so it may now be doa. Stained and will sit around for a week to dry before clearing. I'll add the switches and insides after that.
My $20 heat gun let out smoke on first use, but not on second use. Been using for years now and it comes in handy a lot more than you may think. No more burns and scorch marks from trying to use a lighter with heat shrink tubing.
Is there any way to refurb the cheap old f-type wood clamps? Lost two more on this project; the ratcheting mechanism no longer ratchets and simply slips as it's tightened. Now have more bad than good clamps.
You can drill holes down the beam every two inches or so and put a pin/bolt in whatever hole .you need
Sometimes you need to hold the sliding f at an angle then clamp. By preloading the joint on the sliding f it will bind harder on clamping. This does make it pretty hard as on hand has to keep the joint of the f spread open while the other hand tightens the clamp.
I've honestly never had one of them fail on me. How does this occur?
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Either the cross cuts get worn smooth, the edges on the latch bar gets worn smooth, or both. Cheap Harbor Freight clamps. I've been using a small pair of vice grips as a work around but I only have so many pairs of small vice grips.
I like them because you can crank them down so much betterer than the hand squeeze type, and they work for squeezing the calipers back in, for a brake job.