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Get familiar with the reaction system: Introducing the Reaction System
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I should have mentioned the doors take 6 1/2 and there are no rear speakers. I don't mind adding separate tweeters. I will have a subwoofer as well.
I've always gotten good sound from Alpine coaxials.
Wish I could be of more help, but my most recent autosound project was a failure because I tried to use cheap Pioneer TS-A1090 4" coax's to replace the cheap 4 inch single cone drivers that came pre-installed in the doors. No bass, distorted easily, muffled sound quality. The drivers were simply mounted too low in the doors. Need to get the tweeters up higher, so I would definitely go with separate small tweeters that can be mounted up higher in the doors or dash.
Not involved: coax
Little involved: separates, would be me choice. Any of the name brands will probably be fine. Just try to find something with a decent tweeter. To many have those awful mylar hiss makers.
Maybe just add decent tweeters and build a crossover to the existing door speakers since we're trying to stay inside of $100.
I left out an important detail about the Alpine coaxials, I removed the 5 cent NPE cap and hot glued a poly cap in its place. I think that helps a lot if you can make it fit.
I have discovered that good auto sound requires a lot of experimentation. It can be a entertaining journey and the end results are more than worth it if you spend much time in your vehicle.
I would be curious how those new Dayton GF180s would fare. One reviewer said they worked well in that application. The price has gone up a bit on those, but still a good buy.
My son & I both have Silver Flute 6.5s in our doors. I'm running Peerless OC25SC65 tweeters in the A pillars. I designed a 2nd order crossover at around 3K with a little baffle-step and it sounds pretty decent. It actually has a little thump! I probably have $150 into it all, but I had most of the crossover parts on the shelf and that's also counting the $40 of Noico sheets.
The GF Dayton drivers .ight be a tough fit, but they would work well.
Id take the 6.5" poly 4 ohm Goldwood, to be honest.
Is this all off the stock head unit?
Pioneer head unit has been purchased already.
Actually, the GRS or Dayton 6.5" pro drivers would probably work well, add one of the small form factor tweeters that are in abundance. Probably be easy enough to do a XO, given the woofer is likely quite a bit off-axis.
Given you are running a sub, anyways.
I remember these being cheaper and also coming with a cap for each tweeter. I installed a pair as the front stage in my CL in the front dash . I really cant complain too much about them. They are still going strong after a few years of use running off a Blaupunkt double din deck.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-AMTPOD-4-Air-Motion-Transformer-Automotive-Tweeter-275-195
I have been running a pair of the 6X9 version of these also, and been happy. They went MIA awhile back or NLA but can still find them out in the wild if searched .
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-22430-Pioneer-TS-D1702R.html
If it has 3way networking and you have the ability, sky is the limit. I will never not buy a 3way network HU again. The ease and simplicity to get very good quality audio in a vehicle is just too easy. Follow some basic principles with all that DSP capability and boom, shocker audio. The other nice part is that drivers then become plug and play. No fiddling with parts, crossover units, rewiring. Unless you like that stuff.
Just my slightly OT opinion. Good luck with driver decisions, that should be fun.
Wrap some headphones around the seat headrest.
Enjoy the exhaust note- take the $100 to the muffler shop and have the exhaust flow out right before the back wheels, or diy
.... something tells me a Colorado isn't going to be a good candidate for that exhaust option.
nor is my Bronco, unfortunately
but it looks cool
looks good to me