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Thinking about adding a sub with a passive in my car.
I have been wanting to add a small sub to my car since I bought it. I did some modeling last night of several of the dayton 10" subs and found some interesting things. When modeled at their RMS power ratings none get close to the rated xmax. The max-x is at 10mm with 400 watts and 110db. At the other end of the price spectrum the rss HE 10" is only using about 13mm of the 25mm spec at 800 watts. Same spl But it does get lower.
The issue with these subs is the port. I am looking at a 20 or 25L box tuned to 30 hz or lower. Seems like a good candidate for a PR. However the PRs on the market are almost as much as the max-x driver! Any suggestions for a high value PR? (The css10" at $90 looks like the best deal)
Or should I do 2 opposed subs sealed for almost the same price?
Comments
Just remember that you don't need to have as low an anechoic F3 in a car to dig deeply. FWIW, I ran a 0.6 Qtc sealed sub with an F3 of 60Hz in the car, and it sounded great!
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If you are using a separate sub amp with EQ you can go sealed and boost with the amp
Yup, a sealed ten in a car works fine, depending on what your wanting. For a normal even sounding system you'll be fine. Cabin gain and EQ are your friends👍🏼
I am thinking about supersizing to the 12". A stronger motor leads to 3 db higher efficiency and 50% more power handling. All while using almost as small of an enclosure. I think this is the first time I have seen a line change the motor with cone size...
I ordered the 10" this morning. Used a $10 off coupon to get the cost down to $101. I found a Helix D one on ebay NIB for 200 shipped. May pick it up also.
I can't upload a video directly here. I hooked up my DTA 120 to the dayton max-x 10 free air. Gain all the way up. One channel per voice coil. Running a signal generator at 20 hz. Huge cone movement and no noise. This is rated at 60 watts per channel at 4 ohms. I am not sure it will do any more at 2 ohms. But it handled it like a champ. I am guessing that the cone was moving well over an inch PTP. I changed my source to another computer that made more noise do to a higher gain. Again guessing that the noise was the amp clipping. I could not bottom out the sub. This is a nice looking $100 sub that seams like it will handle way more than it is rated for.
I finally heard the RS HF line of subs (pair of 12”) that I installed in a crewcab Tundra on 600W and am absolutely floored by them. Clean, clear, extension, musical…. Amazing, jaw dropping.
They is the good stuff!
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I would like to hear the difference with a max x and a RF HO. I think the box specs are about the same. But the HO has a much lower inductance do to the advanced motor. It should also have lower distortion but I have no comparison between the two.
I forgot that I have a Sunfire Jr. True sub. The amp is bad so I threw it in the car for now. It sounds very good. At least at first. After exploring a few different songs I know well I found that I have nothing under 30 something hz. I thought the car may have a filter blocking the low frequencies. But the cone is moving. Just no sound. It seems to be tuned much higher than expected.
Probably not the best sub for a car without some serious tuning. I should know.