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RSS265HO-4 Upper Limits?
Would the RSS265HO-4 Work as the bottom of a "active" 3 way? Playing up to say 300hz?
I'm putting together a active 3 way with stuff I have on hand, For the DSP I have the dayton 408 and for power I have a Denon AVR-5803
that is 4 ohm stable and is rated 200 wpc @ 6 ohms.
I have these 265's a pair of peerless 830668's and a pair of RSS210HO-4's to choose from for the woofer.
For midrange I have Scan speak m11mh-28 or Peerless SDS 5.25"
For tweeters I have Morel Cat 308's or Peerless Beast Modes.
I have some DIY cabs I'll be repurposing and adding new baffles, they are made from 1" thick stair treads from Home Depot and measure 24" tall x 11.25" wide x 13.25 deep. Right now they are sealed But I can add a port if needed. Might try doing facets for the first time when adding new baffles too.
For the Mid enclosure I grabbed some of the "big" mainstays bed risers from wally world.
Anyone think that RSS265 would do ok up to 300hz? or should I stick with one of the other choices?
Comments
It should do 300 no problem.
That's good to hear! I knew that 8" plays up pretty high with no issue but wasn't sure about the 10"
These are going in a Rec room/ finished garage that's roughly 20' x 20' basically a party room lol.
Dual RSS265HFs in a 3-way...https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/comment/36916/#Comment_36916
Even the 830668 would suit 300Hz-400Hz low pass
There is a cone/surround edge interference that causes a dip at 800Hz in the near field (not shown) that means I would limit the low pass for 400Hz. But
Note the rising H3 in the midrange, due to the single alu ring as the demodulation device.
Based on the datasheet for the RSS 265HO-4 could be used as high as 700 Hz IMHO.
Though in a 3 way I would cross at the baffle step, or where your mid starts to droop off. I don’t have an opinion of the Scan/Vifa M11 Aerial buyout; but the SDS use very basic motors. Will you measure both?
Sadly I have no measuring equipment at this time, but I understand it is a important to have.
I've been reading here and tech talk for a few years and I consider many of you guys to be pretty genius and myself, well.. just a normal dude lol.. Not sure if that makes sense, but I'm pretty amazed at the amount of knowledge you guys retain. I've been reading daily for some years now and I'm still learning but not sure I'll ever be at the level of some of you guys period..
That's the main reason for going active at this time.
About baffle step, This is determined by the width of my baffle? Should I be crossing right at this point or over or under?
Thanks for your reply.
Dustin.
As a side note.. I did an active 2 way with the RS225 and beast mode tweeter and was pretty impressed with this setup. The only problem was the woofer would bottom when pushing them, so looking to move on.
Definitely will play that high
The rs225 don't like to be bottomed and PE should have fixed that.
@DSchreck - the RSS265HO-4 are the Monster Deal of the Week at PE.
I seen that too, Thanks for the heads up though..
I already got a pair on hand, I had them in a center console down firing enclosure in my truck on a Zapco 2k amp.
I ended up selling the truck and got a new one but haven't put a system in it and these have been just sitting.
Finally some progress!
Got the new baffles on and facets cut.. Ended up just using a skillsaw with straight edge and clamps.
I got to paint the driver cutouts and apply some deadner (silver backed car audio type) to the mid enclosures tonight.
My kind of look.
No driver likes to be bottomed- the hard clipping or mechanical damage as the top/bottom of the coil hits the bottom/top plate.
After 20 years on the market you’d think PE/Dayton would have asked the OEM to put in a bumped back plate…
Thanks for the kind words.
They sound pretty sweet right up to that point. I tried the paper and aluminum version and liked both.
I tried the aluminums in my front doors and they did pretty good too.
Some are way more graceful when they do bottom. I think it's the 8" dayton sd215 in another build and while I don't think they have the clarity of the either the p or a rs225, when they are pushed way into the region where they must be bottoming, they never do that machine gun blat blat blat of the rs225 that makes you jump from the chair and rush for the volume knob. And the sd cost less.
The Designer series also lack a bumped back plate. However, if the soft parts are correctly engineered they should arrest movement before mechanical damage is likely to occur so a bumped backplate is not necessarily needed. The RS and DS line lacks both, across the board.
I'd like to try the sig270 one of these days. Has anybody seen a build done with these yet?
I agree with what @jr@mac said. I once read from Ulrik Schmidt, an industry veteran ex-Scan-Speak, now at SB Acoustics,
“the suspension should allow for the top/bottom of the coil winding to reach the bottom/top of the top plate – but no more. The surround and spider start limiting at the same time with a linear region slightly exceeding that of the coil overhang. This all ensures good linearity without hard clipping or mechanical damage to the cone at high levels.”
A bumped back plate might not alleviate it.
Dont get me wrong, The RS were one of my favourite driver ranges, until the recent price hikes. So recently it’s fallen off my radar.
Does anyone know if the DS and RS are manufactured at same factory?
They are both made In Taiwan, but I can’t recall by whom.
There’s something perverse in this universe when the English made B&W drivers and Danish made Scan-Speak drivers are more affordable than the Taiwanese made Dayton RS drivers, and shipping from THL ex France is more affordable than from Solen ex Canada to USA…
PE utilizes Lyeco for some of their drivers.
At least for now....
The Sig and U2 are at a different one, and I don't know the name. They have talked of moving the RS there as well.
InDIYana Event Website
Here's a side by side of the 4.5" Scanspeak M11MH-28-04 buyout and the Peerless SDS 5.25"
Wish I would have got more of the buyout Scans when they were available.