I felt like I was cluttering up Brad's thread so I'm starting a new one. Stopped at Menards on the way home from work today and got after it with my trustry table saw. The pic says it all:
No secrets here. I'm going to try this project/experiment with drivers that are just wasting away on my shelf. The omni woofers are the Dayton Audio GF180-4 drivers. They were only $18 each when I bought them. I've brought them to Indy and Iowa to sell and nobody wanted them even for $5 each! Really? Wow! In the 16 L enclosures tuned to 46 Hz they have a modeled F3 of 44 Hz and an F10 of 34 Hz. They can do 102 dB with 20 watts and not exceed their xmax above 30 Hz.
My intenion is to build a tiny bridged type open baffle that places a Peerless TC9FD right over them. Tweeters are still YTBD. Maybe something really small like the Dayton Audio ND16FA-6.
Project glue up has commenced. Building prototype/experimental boxes out of cheap PB is actually kind of fun. They'll be square of course but not sweating the joint look at this point. The boxes might end up at the curb eventually
Sounds like fun! This might make a good Friday or Saturday night theme for Iowa next year. I'm kind of curious what specific woofer properties to look for with this kind of project.
It depends on how you intend to orient the driver.
If you face mount, then the frame should be very open like the Satori, Peerless NE, Seas Excel, Dynaudio or Morel type cast frames. I would bet a curvilinear cone may also benefit in this regard. The W4-1337 would likely do very well here.
If you mount conventionally, face up or down, look for broad off axis response- because you'll definitely need it. Just bear in mind you likely won't get much response beyond where the driver rolls off off axis than the more often direct radiation design. This is why widebanders reaching to 1kHz is so much a benefit for up-firing woofers such as these, and the reason for the Pluto's success.
Anyways... looks like some nice weather here for the next few days. I should be able to get the enclosures all glued together and flush trimed. Then real measurments taken. Should be fun as I can eaisily move the OB MT section forward or rearward to simplify and/or make the final presentation better.
I am going to take a bunch of measurements of just the woofer to better understand omni bass. Then I can make a more educated decision on what to use for the OB mid and tweeter.
This is the woofer FR taken at 1 meter from the center of the woofer dustcap, 7" above the woofer's frame (about where I figure the tweeter will be), and at 2.83 Vrms:
Sitting on stands exactly where all my speakers sit: 8' ceiling, about 3' out from the back wall, and 4' from the side walls. Obviously a lot of room interaction going on there.
I was surprised to see the 2.83v sensitivity was only 80 dB at one meter around 450 Hz and above. Hmmm? Might not need as high of sensitivity midrange as I was originally thinking. Obviously OB sensitivity is lower than monopole and better to have too much and throw some away with padding than not having enough.
@a4eaudio said:
You are a speaker building machine. If Ben would announce the themes for 2026 and 2027, you could knock those out before Christmas.
That is no joke lol. I absolutely love this hobby. After a stressful day at work I totally enjoy pushing wood through my table saw, gluing and clamping up panels. My mind is always busy thinking about the next half dozen projects I could/might build. I'm sure there are WAY worse things I could do. Like the new Hard Rock Casino that just opened. Parking lot is full 24/7. I have zero interest in that. Not judging, just not for me.
Comments
Now what ?
Sweet. Can’t wait to see what’s in your head.
https://www.jfcomponents.com/
Crazy voices... but sometimes they're right
They are.
I’m jealous, as my crazy voices take months to come to some type of consensus… I’m watching with interest as I’m intrigued with new ideas / designs.
No secrets here. I'm going to try this project/experiment with drivers that are just wasting away on my shelf. The omni woofers are the Dayton Audio GF180-4 drivers. They were only $18 each when I bought them. I've brought them to Indy and Iowa to sell and nobody wanted them even for $5 each! Really? Wow! In the 16 L enclosures tuned to 46 Hz they have a modeled F3 of 44 Hz and an F10 of 34 Hz. They can do 102 dB with 20 watts and not exceed their xmax above 30 Hz.
My intenion is to build a tiny bridged type open baffle that places a Peerless TC9FD right over them. Tweeters are still YTBD. Maybe something really small like the Dayton Audio ND16FA-6.
Ive often wondered about higher out put drivers for these builds ... gees , I dont know guys ... thinking SPL
Project glue up has commenced. Building prototype/experimental boxes out of cheap PB is actually kind of fun. They'll be square of course but not sweating the joint look at this point. The boxes might end up at the curb eventually
Sounds like fun! This might make a good Friday or Saturday night theme for Iowa next year. I'm kind of curious what specific woofer properties to look for with this kind of project.
It depends on how you intend to orient the driver.
If you face mount, then the frame should be very open like the Satori, Peerless NE, Seas Excel, Dynaudio or Morel type cast frames. I would bet a curvilinear cone may also benefit in this regard. The W4-1337 would likely do very well here.
If you mount conventionally, face up or down, look for broad off axis response- because you'll definitely need it. Just bear in mind you likely won't get much response beyond where the driver rolls off off axis than the more often direct radiation design. This is why widebanders reaching to 1kHz is so much a benefit for up-firing woofers such as these, and the reason for the Pluto's success.
InDIYana Event Website
Anyways... looks like some nice weather here for the next few days. I should be able to get the enclosures all glued together and flush trimed. Then real measurments taken. Should be fun as I can eaisily move the OB MT section forward or rearward to simplify and/or make the final presentation better.
Off axis response doesn't matter as much on a three way. It'll depend on the low end capability of the OB mid you choose.
How goes the battle?
Router work done. About half of the panels are glued up. Should have it all glued up after work tomorrow. Then on to the OB panel.
Copy , roger that.
Bass encloures are machined. Just prototypes so they are what they are lol,:
I am going to take a bunch of measurements of just the woofer to better understand omni bass. Then I can make a more educated decision on what to use for the OB mid and tweeter.
This is the woofer FR taken at 1 meter from the center of the woofer dustcap, 7" above the woofer's frame (about where I figure the tweeter will be), and at 2.83 Vrms:
Sitting on stands exactly where all my speakers sit: 8' ceiling, about 3' out from the back wall, and 4' from the side walls. Obviously a lot of room interaction going on there.
I was surprised to see the 2.83v sensitivity was only 80 dB at one meter around 450 Hz and above. Hmmm? Might not need as high of sensitivity midrange as I was originally thinking. Obviously OB sensitivity is lower than monopole and better to have too much and throw some away with padding than not having enough.
So here's where I'm at now:
And then a little free handing with my Bosch sabre saw:
You are a speaker building machine. If Ben would announce the themes for 2026 and 2027, you could knock those out before Christmas.
Which flavor NE tweeter is that Craig ?
That is no joke lol. I absolutely love this hobby. After a stressful day at work I totally enjoy pushing wood through my table saw, gluing and clamping up panels. My mind is always busy thinking about the next half dozen projects I could/might build. I'm sure there are WAY worse things I could do. Like the new Hard Rock Casino that just opened. Parking lot is full 24/7. I have zero interest in that. Not judging, just not for me.
The titanium version, but I also have a pair of the silk dome version I can try.
Nice , I wasnt sure looking at it on this old shitty laptop , was thinking titanium but kind of looked like the ceramic flavor on this end.
That should be a cool piece🤘🏼
Looks great! Now just tell Grumpy what drivers you're using and he'll whip up a crossover for you.