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ESS Heil AMT tweeter measurements

4thtry4thtry
in Hard Data

This will be a thread for posting ESS Heil AMT tweeter measurements.

I'll be testing and posting data for the pair of original AMT's I got from @LifeOfBrian at the IowaDIY event. I know that others also have the newer versions of these tweeters, so please feel free to post your own measurements for comparison purposes.

I'm currently gluing up a tower enclosure, using Menard's value shelving, and I expect to start testing later next week. I still need to run out to the hardware store and pick up some 3/8" x 7" long bolts and T-nuts to complete the mounting. Hopefully they will have some in stainless steel.

I plan to do full 180 degree spinorama type SPL's, both vertically and horizontally, using Soundeasy and my dual channel mic setup. Will also do distortion measurements and run impedance curves with OmniMic and DATS V2.

rjj45Steve_LeejholtzNicholas_23

Comments

  • jr@macjr@mac

    As the one who initially advocated using that building material, it warms my heart to see it used so much.

    Looking forward to how this develops.

    I have a signature.
  • rjj45rjj45

    I've got a pair that is 5 years old, and has the well known bumps in the FR. I got a new pair about a year ago and it is significantly flatter. But even the older ones sound awesome. So much radiating area.

    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • 4thtry4thtry
    edited November 1

    In drilling the particle board to accept the T-nuts, I just noticed that the maximum size bolt that will fit my unit is actually 5/16", not 3/8" as I noted in my initial post. 1/4-20 would also work, but it would probably be a bit too sloppy. So I need to find 5/16" x 7" long bolts and T-nuts at the hardware store tomorrow.

  • 4thtry4thtry
    edited November 1

    One of my two original AMT's might have a damaged diaphragm. So I will be measuring both tweeters. If one of the tweeters measures a little wonky, I'll try popping in one of the new diaphragms I got from @LifeOfBrian . Then re-test. Found a youtube vid showing the process. Looks fairly straightforward. Any tips on what to avoid when swapping out diaphragms? How delicate are the diaphragms? Can they be tested without a series protection cap, of approx 50uF or so, between the amplifier and tweeter?

    Nicholas_23jhollander
  • Ron_ERon_E

    The ESS mounting kit uses 1/4-20 bolts.

    Steve_Lee4thtry
  • DrewsBrewsDrewsBrews
    edited November 2

    Carriage bolts are super common in long lengths. The dome heads would look more sleek than hex. A quick search is showing they can even be found in black finish. A top strap is easily made with aluminum flat bar and made to accept the carriage bolt square by shaping drilled holes with a small triangle file.

    Steve_Lee4thtry
  • 4thtry4thtry

    Could not find carriage or regular bolts beyond 6 inches long in either 5/16" or 1/4" at the store that I usually buy most stuff. But I did find some 7 inch long 5/16" regular bolts at another store. They also had polished black plastic caps that fit over the heads, so I will give those a try and see what it looks like. Putting an aluminum flat bar across the top seems like a good idea, might try that later if this does not work out.

  • 6thplanet6thplanet

    The copper bar Nick made for his was slick.

  • DrewsBrewsDrewsBrews

    Those black caps look identical to the ones ESS has in their photo of the mounting kit.

  • Steve_LeeSteve_Lee

    Acorn Nuts . . . https://www.amazon.com/Acorn-Nuts/b?node=16409871

    6thplanet
  • 6thplanet6thplanet

    Spikes!

  • 4thtry4thtry

    The test enclosure is done. I mounted the tweeter and am ready to start measuring. It has the same length and width dimensions as the tweeter base, which should help to reduce cabinet top reflections somewhat. It is 3 feet tall and uses an old piece of stair tread material as the base (approx 12x12"). Since the baffle width is the same as the tweeter, about 6.75" or so, the future completion plan will be to use two 5.25" woofers just below the tweeter, not 6.5 or 8 inchers. I eased all edges with a 1/2" roundover bit and then beveled the top edge to match the tweeter's black plastic facets. Then I wound masking tape around the joint between the tweeter and enclosure to make everything nice and smooth. I filled the tweeter's upper and lower triangular front cavities with 1/4" thick denim triangles. When placed on my DIY polar turntable, the tweeter will be approx 58" above the floor and 86" below the sloped ceiling.





    BilletSteve_Leerjj456thplanet
  • 4thtry4thtry

    @Steve_Lee said:
    Acorn Nuts . . . https://www.amazon.com/Acorn-Nuts/b?node=16409871

    @6thplanet said:
    Spikes!

    Too late. Threads and T-nuts are on the bottom side. I'd have to redesign similar to Nick's speakers in order to use spikes or acorn nuts on the top. B)

  • rjj45rjj45

    A search today for a long 1/4 x 20 bolt in stainless steel (non magnetic) proved fruitless.
    Suggest stainless steel 1/4" all thread and a nut brazed on the top and a plastic cover.

    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • ugly_wooferugly_woofer


    This is what I used - 1/4-20 threaded into the nuts and 8-32 threads on top.

    6thplanethifisiderjj45Steve_Lee
  • silverDsilverD

    Ran across the troubleshooting link on the ESS site and found this PDF with crossover schematics: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/lbmwzuiaru85xhlpu9jmn/AIlYlRy30DADPs9fMjoZASc/ESS Crossover for almost all models.pdf?rlkey=vaj05dptd9jkhfdlywedwuwnn&dl=0

    Steve_Lee6thplanet4thtry
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