Solder Recommendations (another PE let down)

Mzisserson

Here we go again with PE just peddling sub-par stuff. I know I am not suppose to say these things since I am in the "design team" this year, but everything I get from them lately is garbage. 

Latest is their 4% silver solder. I have been using the PE 4% for literally DECADES. I just opened a new roll last build and noticed it was hard to work with. 

I then noticed it was EATING my solder tips because the flux is so agressive. 

It destroyed the tip on my radio shack gun that has been on there for nearly 5 years, and just ate through 3 effing tips on my 60W iron while soldering the ACG crossovers. 

What do you guys use, preferably silver bering, that you would recommend?

JavadS

I've been using Kester 60/40 for about 30 years in everything from audio to automotive, never had a complaint with it. I don't generally see the need or benefit of silver solder.

Should also notify PE, could be a bad batch or defective product and if I was them I'd want to know.

Thanks!
Javad

kennyk

Kester.

Ge_off_me

Tenma solder Kester, also.

jr@mac

Kester 63/37 for me - I bought two spools from work years ago and am still winding my way through it. It is not a flux core, however, so I have to apply flux to everything. 

jholtz

I'm with JR. I've used 63/37 for years. You'll never have a cold solder joint with it. However, I think mine is a flux core version.

Jim

Mzisserson

After quite a bit of research, the major change in PEs silver bering solder is a lack of copper. Just about all solder tips are a tinned copper. When the tinning becomes compromised, the copper begins to chemically absorb into the solder. 

This is not a flux, or core thing....Its chemestey. Better quality solder contains a small amount of copper to prevent this, or slow this from happening. 

Apparently this happens with tin/lead solder, though a eutectic mix like 63/37 slows the process. 

Better quality solder tips have a deposited layer of iron which slows this whole tip-becoming-one -with-the-solder thing. 

So, it seems the better quality tip build of the older radio shack irons and gun I used combined with the old style silver bering solder from PE that has a 0.4% copper content made for years of sailing down easy street. 

Looks like I will grab some Monday from MCM with more drivers I don't need! 

Ron_E

I was recently looking for lead free solder so I asked a friend who works in the electronics industry in silicone valley what he would recommend and this was his reply. (the reference to silver is because I'd sent him a post from the PE forum about silver solder and audio)

"I prefer the standard ROHS (Reduction of Hazardous Substances) solder to silver solder.  Silver solder generally has a melting point that is too high.

Four things are important in solder:

Good flux
Good wetting
Narrow or zero eutectic range (does it melt and solidify at a single temperature rather than become a 'putty' for a range)?
Melting point - should be about the same temp as standard tin-lead.

It is hard to judge a particular alloy or flux without trying it.  But one thing for certain, Kester knows more about solder than anyone else.  I don't know where they buy it, but here is a source.

https://tinyurl.com/jutqvd3

I would pay more for the good stuff, since a $25 roll of bad solder is nearly useless.

And as you probably know, solder that has 4% silver is not much more conductive than tin-lead (maybe less so because of the other alloying components).
And of course, there is no difference in the signal going through.
No one in the electronics industry uses silver solder.   It isn't because of the cost.  A lot of what we do at Dawn is nearly "cost is no object" stuff.  When we make
a $6,000 circuit board, the cost of solder is of no consequence.   It is true that silver solder is physically stronger than tin-lead or other alloys, but if you are using solder as the only means of attachment, you aren't  doing it right.  Buy the Kester.

I use silver solder for repairing jewelry - only."

I bought what he recommended (Kester K100LD) and haven't had any problems with it.

Ron

PWRRYD

I have used Kester 60/40 for decades with zero complaints.  I also run my soldering iron about 50 deg hotter than needed so I can get in and get out quick.  I have never damaged a component or pcb pad or trace.

greywarden

I think I bought some from an Auto parts store that was 10-15 years old, I have no idea what it was, but it melts. 

That being said, I've learned a little bit from this thread and I'll actually look at what I'm buying next time. Thanks guys.

R-Carpenter

I picked up 4 spools of Radio Shack before they closed the doors.

ani_101

I need to buy kester and throw away the junk I am using. What would be the recommended temp for it? 

ani_101

Do you need to use flux with it? I don't like the smell and smoke from the flux. The label says do not breathe the smoke, but I am bent over it trying to see what I am soldering.... It goes straight in my nose....

jr@mac

Yes, flux is 100% mandatory. 

jholtz

Ani,

Here's a link to Amazon for Kester 44 63/37 solder that is rosin core.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=kester+44+rosin+core+solder+63+37&sprefix=Kester%2Caps%2C181&crid=2FHA6CBMBAJDM

It has a melting temp of 361F so it melts easily and flows well. Like I said, no worries of cold soldering joints or damage using this solder with a good soldering station.

HTH

Jim

Mzisserson

ani_101 said:

Do you need to use flux with it? I don't like the smell and smoke from the flux. The label says do not breathe the smoke, but I am bent over it trying to see what I am soldering.... It goes straight in my nose....

Its no too hard to make a make-shift draft hood/portable draft machine to get the smoke away. 

Here is an example of one you can buy, but a largish computer fan and some wood with hardboard wings, or even that posterboard/foamboard stuff used for projects is just fine too. 

http://www.newark.com/ok-industries/sa-91/fume-extractor/dp/95F3919?mckv=IP8F68ux&gross_price=true&CATCI=pla-164503916661&CAAGID=20389674261&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-SHOPPING-95F3919&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQjwzpfHBRC1iIaL78Ol-eIBEiQAdZPVKred4hNXhSu0W9YmiqcZQoH8D_wtl4mk5Mq28KHe5YgaAkix8P8HAQ&DM_PersistentCookieCreated=true&CAWELAID=120185550001512687

Ron_E

ani_101 said:

Do you need to use flux with it? I don't like the smell and smoke from the flux. The label says do not breathe the smoke, but I am bent over it trying to see what I am soldering.... It goes straight in my nose....

Solder for electronics has flux in the center.  That's where terms like "rosin core" comes from so you don't need to add flux if that's what you mean. I use a stand mounted fan to blow the smoke away from me. This is the safety data sheet for Kester 331 flux used in the K100LD solder I bought.

Ron

Face

ani_101 said:

Do you need to use flux with it? I don't like the smell and smoke from the flux. The label says do not breathe the smoke, but I am bent over it trying to see what I am soldering.... It goes straight in my nose....

http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/electronics/Soldering-Fan

R-Carpenter

i LIKE THE SMELL OF SOLDER IN THE MORNING!

ani_101

Didn't knew there were numerous extractors!!!

greywarden

I just usually hook up a 120mm fan with an old PSU I always have laying around haha

ScottS

I also use Kester 44 solder 63/37 tin/lead ratio.  I don't worry about solder any more... 

jleaman

greywarden said:

I just usually hook up a 120mm fan with an old PSU I always have laying around haha

I just use a 5V dc walwart powersupply and a 12V large computer fan.

4thtry

I use whatever Radio Shack carries (OEM??).  I use the rosin core 60/40 .062 stuff for most of my heavier soldering work and the rosin core 60/40 .032 stuff for lighter type work.  I do not use silver solder or "lead free" type solders because I have had several bad experiences with these types many years ago.  The silver solder I used looked "pasty" when it cooled, almost like a cold solder joint, so I quit using it.  I like to see the flux burn off quickly at just the right rate so that it cleans the joint and the solder flows smoothly into the joint with a nice shinning surface when it cools. 

In the past, I have burned up a lot of tips because I would leave the soldering pencil (40W) plugged in all the time and it would get the tip too hot.   My 25W pencil did not burn up tips, but it often did not give me the kind of heat that I needed.   But since I switched over the the PE Stahl temperature controlled station, I can save tips by boosting the heat to whatever I need for good flow, then back the heat off in between soldering operations.   

jr@mac

That appearance you described is typical of lead free solder.