Excellent post John. I'm curious about shooting thick paints like you're talking about. 100 seconds is realllly slow and thick. What did you shoot it with and did you thin it?
I have a garage door with one panel that has had exhaust crude on it from one of my kids cars that just won't scrub or buff off. My gun with a 1.4 tip wont do it so I was planning on rattle canning it if I could get something that matched half way decent. Maybe time to pick up a cheap Harbor Freight gun with a very big tip.
I haven't shot solvent based automotive paints for over 40 years which was back in the days when I was a real gear head. My youngest son was a body man for several years and I was able to con him in to shooting the cabinets on my early projects for me where he worked. (sigh) Then he moved to California. Now I struggle with getting them to look anything close to what he turned out. Brad at Dakota DIY had beautiful cabinets he'd shot with 2K. I enjoyed talking to him.
My 1.8 was my go to gun but had a bent tip. I've been using a 2.0 mm with an aluminum syphon (bottom feed) cup, Harbor Freight LVLP, it kind of sucks. For water based latex I've used water to thin.
I think the gravity feed HVLP can spray thicker than the syphon feed. The harbor freight gravity feed HVPL 1.8 gun only comes in a 2 piece kit for $48? I've been looking for coupons, but went ahead and ordered the TCP 1.8 for $40. Not my first choice but I wanted to try one.
Got the TCP Global paint gun last night. I'd say it's the same build quality as the Harbor Freight 2 piece set for $48 (so meh). The big difference is that the main casting appears to be stainless steel vs. aluminum for the Harbor freight.
This is my third gun that has had the air distributor glued/ loctite'd in place (piece behind the air cap). The air distributor is removable with an Allen wrench. I had to heat the body with a torch to get it to break free.
There's tons of dirt and oil in this gun. I'll be soaking it in lacquer thinner for a few hours before reassembling.
If I get a Harbor freight coupon I'll definitely pick up the $48 set of guns.
My vintage (1972) Binks Model 7 has a needle size of .070 inches (1.8mm) (per the owners manual). Mfg Date: 4/72.
This thing is built like a tank; you can see the scars from heavy usage over the years. It would probably last for another 45 years if treated well.
The Binks 7 can be fitted with needle sets ranging in size from .040, .046, .052, .059, .070, and .086 inches. This translates to 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.32mm, 1.5mm, 1.78mm, and 2.2mm in the metric system. To change the orifice, I would need to change 3 parts: The Fluid nozzle, The Air nozzle, and The Needle. I checked ebay and other suppliers for these other needle sizes, but discovered that only the 1.8mm set, which I already have, is available. Even if I could find a smaller nozzle set, the cost would be over $200 to replace all 3 parts. Better off replacing the entire sprayer.
Thanks for the tips and info on new sprayers. Much to consider.
Here is what my test box looks like after 5 coats of Crystalac, but no finish.
When the Crystalac dried, I sanded it again with the 3M finishing pad and then sprayed 5 coats (40 minutes apart) of the Shellac sealer clear top coat this morning. The Crystalac turned a little white (fogging) in a few spots after I sprayed the 1st coat of clear, but then after about 10 minutes the white fogging turned clear again.
Will snap another pic when the finish dries and post tomorrow. I'm getting a little orange peel on the final coat of clear. Will probably have to sand this out and hit it with another 2 or 3 coats of clear shellac.
Bill, I'd say you got all the value out of that gun.
You don't need that many coats of shellac for sealing unless that's your final finish, which it certainly could be. A popular finish is shellac then a superfine 3M pad or 0000 steel wool and a wax top coat.
The fogging as you probably know is moisture in the finish. Shellac and Lacquer can both blush (fog) when they dry to fast with high humidity in the air (or moisture in the compressed air line). A thick wet coat can also trap the moisture in the finish.
It was 70 degrees outside this morning with high humidity (75%) when I sprayed the 1st coat of shellac. It started to fog up in spots almost immediately. I let it dry just a little outside, then brought it inside in an air conditioned space. After about 10 minutes or so, the white fogging disappeared. This is just a test box, so I was testing multiple layers of shellac as the final finish instead of oil based poly. This stuff dries really fast, which is why I think I am getting a little orange peel, it sets up so fast there is no time for the orange peel to level out.
I only used the Binks 7 on three or four projects. My father, brother, and his son put all the scars in the sprayer, painting entire cars, trucks, tractors, etc., over the past 40 years.
I will bring this test box to MWAF and place it under the table below my Plumber's Delight speakers. John, Jim & Ani, if you see it, feel free to inspect the finish and comment. I tried to upload a pic showing the box after 6 coats of shellac, but the picture won't upload. Its hard to see the orange peel in a picture.
25% off coupon at Harbor Freight this weekend. I bought the $47 spray gun combo for $38. Looks like cast aluminum. Different nozzle set up. Plus would be the plastic paint cup, fan control knob on the back, and the 1.8 tip included.
So I'm set up to spray the Synergy horn project next month. Looks like I will be going down the General finishes path. I like the online support and product availability.
Got one. Paid 47, as I didn't have a coupon. I signed up for email coupons, so next purchase I'll get a discount. Also picked up a pressure gauge, filter, and set of small brushes for cleaning. Will let you know how it works when I use it this fall. Hopefully my 5hp 20 gallon compressor is big enough.
Mine too. It took me quite a bit of effort to removed the 1.4 tip for cleaning. Had to completely remove the needle (not just pull the trigger) and then I was able to turn out the 1.4 tip with the supplied wrench. In addition to grease & oil, there seems to be metal shavings from the manufacturing process left on the threaded areas. This is probably why it was so difficult to remove the 1.4mm tip. I switched back and forth several times between the 1.4 and 1.8 tips and now I have the threads cleaned up pretty good.
Also, be very careful threading the plastic paint cup onto the smaller 1.0mm sprayer. Very easy to cross thread the plastic threads. Will you be using this smaller spray gun at all on your projects?
Good to know about the plastic threads. Not sure if I will use the little1.0 gun. I've got another similar small gun. Maybe if I can come up with an adapter to a bigger cup this would be worth using for Sealcoat and clear Lacquer.
Comments
I have a garage door with one panel that has had exhaust crude on it from one of my kids cars that just won't scrub or buff off. My gun with a 1.4 tip wont do it so I was planning on rattle canning it if I could get something that matched half way decent. Maybe time to pick up a cheap Harbor Freight gun with a very big tip.
I haven't shot solvent based automotive paints for over 40 years which was back in the days when I was a real gear head. My youngest son was a body man for several years and I was able to con him in to shooting the cabinets on my early projects for me where he worked. (sigh) Then he moved to California.
Jim
My 1.8 was my go to gun but had a bent tip. I've been using a 2.0 mm with an aluminum syphon (bottom feed) cup, Harbor Freight LVLP, it kind of sucks. For water based latex I've used water to thin.
I think the gravity feed HVLP can spray thicker than the syphon feed. The harbor freight gravity feed HVPL 1.8 gun only comes in a 2 piece kit for $48? I've been looking for coupons, but went ahead and ordered the TCP 1.8 for $40. Not my first choice but I wanted to try one.
Got the TCP Global paint gun last night. I'd say it's the same build quality as the Harbor Freight 2 piece set for $48 (so meh). The big difference is that the main casting appears to be stainless steel vs. aluminum for the Harbor freight.
This is my third gun that has had the air distributor glued/ loctite'd in place (piece behind the air cap). The air distributor is removable with an Allen wrench. I had to heat the body with a torch to get it to break free.
There's tons of dirt and oil in this gun. I'll be soaking it in lacquer thinner for a few hours before reassembling.
If I get a Harbor freight coupon I'll definitely pick up the $48 set of guns.
My vintage (1972) Binks Model 7 has a needle size of .070 inches (1.8mm) (per the owners manual). Mfg Date: 4/72.
This thing is built like a tank; you can see the scars from heavy usage over the years. It would probably last for another 45 years if treated well.
The Binks 7 can be fitted with needle sets ranging in size from .040, .046, .052, .059, .070, and .086 inches. This translates to 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.32mm, 1.5mm, 1.78mm, and 2.2mm in the metric system. To change the orifice, I would need to change 3 parts: The Fluid nozzle, The Air nozzle, and The Needle. I checked ebay and other suppliers for these other needle sizes, but discovered that only the 1.8mm set, which I already have, is available. Even if I could find a smaller nozzle set, the cost would be over $200 to replace all 3 parts. Better off replacing the entire sprayer.
Thanks for the tips and info on new sprayers. Much to consider.
Here is what my test box looks like after 5 coats of Crystalac, but no finish.
When the Crystalac dried, I sanded it again with the 3M finishing pad and then sprayed 5 coats (40 minutes apart) of the Shellac sealer clear top coat this morning. The Crystalac turned a little white (fogging) in a few spots after I sprayed the 1st coat of clear, but then after about 10 minutes the white fogging turned clear again.
Will snap another pic when the finish dries and post tomorrow. I'm getting a little orange peel on the final coat of clear. Will probably have to sand this out and hit it with another 2 or 3 coats of clear shellac.
Bill, I'd say you got all the value out of that gun.
You don't need that many coats of shellac for sealing unless that's your final finish, which it certainly could be. A popular finish is shellac then a superfine 3M pad or 0000 steel wool and a wax top coat.
The fogging as you probably know is moisture in the finish. Shellac and Lacquer can both blush (fog) when they dry to fast with high humidity in the air (or moisture in the compressed air line). A thick wet coat can also trap the moisture in the finish.
It was 70 degrees outside this morning with high humidity (75%) when I sprayed the 1st coat of shellac. It started to fog up in spots almost immediately. I let it dry just a little outside, then brought it inside in an air conditioned space. After about 10 minutes or so, the white fogging disappeared. This is just a test box, so I was testing multiple layers of shellac as the final finish instead of oil based poly. This stuff dries really fast, which is why I think I am getting a little orange peel, it sets up so fast there is no time for the orange peel to level out.
I only used the Binks 7 on three or four projects. My father, brother, and his son put all the scars in the sprayer, painting entire cars, trucks, tractors, etc., over the past 40 years.
I will bring this test box to MWAF and place it under the table below my Plumber's Delight speakers. John, Jim & Ani, if you see it, feel free to inspect the finish and comment. I tried to upload a pic showing the box after 6 coats of shellac, but the picture won't upload. Its hard to see the orange peel in a picture.
So I'm set up to spray the Synergy horn project next month. Looks like I will be going down the General finishes path. I like the online support and product availability.
My Air America compressor rating is 8.7scfm @ 40psi and 7.1scfm @ 90psi
Twin Cylinder/ oil lubricated
My guns feel really greasy so I've got a bunch of cleaning to do.
Mine too. It took me quite a bit of effort to removed the 1.4 tip for cleaning. Had to completely remove the needle (not just pull the trigger) and then I was able to turn out the 1.4 tip with the supplied wrench. In addition to grease & oil, there seems to be metal shavings from the manufacturing process left on the threaded areas. This is probably why it was so difficult to remove the 1.4mm tip. I switched back and forth several times between the 1.4 and 1.8 tips and now I have the threads cleaned up pretty good.
Also, be very careful threading the plastic paint cup onto the smaller 1.0mm sprayer. Very easy to cross thread the plastic threads. Will you be using this smaller spray gun at all on your projects?