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https://www.kk-int.dk/P630/p630pro.html
I don't like how he tightened the bolts.
Me neither.
With a precision torque driver? What's wrong with that, it is a manufacturing line after all. How would you do it?
As a general rule of thumb, I typically DO NOT use a powered tool to install drivers. This is asking quite literally for a driver to get screwed, usually through a surround or cone. I more often than not use a ratcheting screwdriver and guard the installation with a placed hand around the driver and screw to ensure happy drivers and no stripped screw-holes.
For an assembly line, I can see this is less wear and tear on a person doing the job, and there are extra drivers on hand for replacement if something happens.
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Depends on the screws used. I use power tools all day long at Bose and have yet to stab a driver. They use a Robertson/Philips combo screw. So using the square drive bit it doesn't cam out like a Philips does, very secure fit. Torx or Allen would offer this too.
I should also add, we use the same type of overhead screwdriver tool as well as a standard Ryobi drill. The overhead has adjustable torque settings that tightens to the preset and stops. I use the clutch settings on the drill for proper torque.
I would like to see the assembler first put all the screws in and then drive them with his tool almost all the way in, but stopping short of compressing the gasket. Then I would like to see the assembler slowly torque each by hand, rotating to the opposing side each time, so that the driver is evenly compressed into the gasket without stressing the driver frame.
Torque sequence like we do in the automotive world (head bolts, intake manifold bolts, etc.).
When I worked in the electronic assembly industry we used calibrated electric drivers at most work stations. Some of the critical operations (like installing high power IGBT's) had 3 precision screw drivers that the operator would use to progressively torque down the IGBT's in a very specific pattern. We did FEMAs to analyze the failure modes.