I recently finished up these stands. The center column is hollow and once the speaker cables are trimmed to length to reach the speaker terminals they will be hidden from view. The wood is walnut with a maple accent finished with Natural Watco Danish Oil followed by Minwax wipe-on poly. The tops and bottoms were attached with long #10 deck screws.
I made a drill guide from a piece of scrape oak and attached it with double stick tape so all the holes would align.
I attached a backer block to the miter with double stick tape to route round overs on the corners of the tops and base.
Attached a scrap of wood with more double stick tape to cut a slot between the terminal plate and through hole to the center post.
Adding a 45 miter to both tops and bottoms.
I'll try to remember to get a picture with the speakers installed when I deliver them.
Vury nice! I have to nit-pick, why not flush the terminal cup?
These terminal cups have a small radius on the top edge so you can never really flush mount them. They can be recessed which is something I normally do but decided not to for this project. I did remove the thick foam gasket so there wouldn't be an unsightly gap on the bottom.
Beautiful stands! 👍 They really put my cheap pine ones to shame. Question: With only 4 bolts spaced close together to secure the top and bottom plates, do you get any side-to-side racking? Just wondering. I had to add braces to prevent this on my stands.
I've had much lighter built commercial stands that held up just fine except for the time they were used at an IADIY event. The screws that hold the tops and bottoms on are #10 deck screws. The screws holding the tops are 2 1/2" and the bottoms screws are 3 1/2". Those screws are centered in the 3/4" solid walnut sides of the center post. I haven't been able to put the speakers on them yet but it all feels pretty solid. We'll see.
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Ron
Ron
Ron
Ron