Rattle can paint Video

hifiside

https://youtu.be/Ixuia72GeYA 
Part 1 of my video on laminate and rattle cans.

hifiside

https://youtu.be/vWPFq2mmuJ0

Part 2. Prime and paint.

ani_101

what's the blue stuff you mixed with the bondo?

ani_101

and does this bondo smell awful?

hifiside

ani_101 said:

what's the blue stuff you mixed with the bondo?

ani_101 said:

and does this bondo smell awful?

The blue stuff is the hardener. Remember all 2 part products have a smell to them for a very limited time. 1 part products on the other hand the smell can linger up to 1-2 weeks.

6thplanet

I think some people are a bit more sensitive to those smells. I tend to like them...🤷🏻‍♂️

Wolf

Explains a lot, Eric!

dynamo

Excellent videos, I learned a few things for sure!

jholtz

Hi Brad,

The videos are excellent! I do have a question or two though. You mentioned using something other than the 2K primer filler. I've done a lot with Duplicolor high build primer which has always worked but I've always had mixed emotions about it. Its readily available and inexpensive in comparison to the Spraymax. Any thoughts about a standard lacquer primer instead of Spraymax?

Also, you mentioned crazing if the Spraymax 2K clear wasn't sprayed on the Krylon color coat before it dried. Is this a reaction to the different types of paint?

Thanks again for the great videos!

Jim

hifiside

jholtz said:

Hi Brad,

The videos are excellent! I do have a question or two though. You mentioned using something other than the 2K primer filler. I've done a lot with Duplicolor high build primer which has always worked but I've always had mixed emotions about it. Its readily available and inexpensive in comparison to the Spraymax. Any thoughts about a standard lacquer primer instead of Spraymax?

Also, you mentioned crazing if the Spraymax 2K clear wasn't sprayed on the Krylon color coat before it dried. Is this a reaction to the different types of paint?

Thanks again for the great videos!

Jim

Hello Jim.
 If your talking about a product like the Rustoleum primer pictured which are all highly lacquer based. They offer (ok) dry times and sand terrible compared to 2k primers. I’m not saying you can’t get good results with them if you give them lots of time to dry and multiple coats (sanding in between coat).  I’ve been doing some test panels with the Kilz original rattle cans and been having great results (next series of videos). Kilz was something I worked with years ago on furniture for my wife and came to the conclusion that the rattle can worked WAY better than the quart or gallons did. 

hifiside

Ok onto Crazing, Lifting or Checking.
 This occurs a lot in enamels when you try putting another product over the top to late. Enamels have a very small window of being to late. I was taught about 22 years ago by a old fella how to spray enamels and it hasn’t failed me yet. Basically it comes down to dry times are everything in the auto body paint world. Hopefully I answered your questions if ANYBODY has anything to ask please ask it! I believe this forum is here for that reason.

Ed_Perkins

Great videos Brad.  Thanks for taking the time and effort to educate us.  Looking forward to the next vids.

ani_101

Thanks Brad, exellect series. I would trying 2k primer and paints this spring... mostly from a can, as i do not yet have a spray setup. Having been getting quite a lot of pointers from @ugly_woofer in prepping the box (mdf stacked box, epoxied).. paint is next. Would definitely have a bunch of questions.... 

One question - if i do manage to get the Crazing / lifting / Checking which i am sure I will get somewhere or the other, is there someway to recover from it?

Regards
Ani

jholtz

Thanks for the excellent reply Brad. Its very helpful! I'm really looking forward to the next segment.

Jim

hifiside

ani_101 said:

Thanks Brad, exellect series. I would trying 2k primer and paints this spring... mostly from a can, as i do not yet have a spray setup. Having been getting quite a lot of pointers from @ugly_woofer in prepping the box (mdf stacked box, epoxied).. paint is next. Would definitely have a bunch of questions.... 

One question - if i do manage to get the Crazing / lifting / Checking which i am sure I will get somewhere or the other, is there someway to recover from it?

Regards
Ani

If you get Crazing it will be a long process to fix it. Let the infected area dry and sand it every 3-4 hrs to knock the area down till it’s level but still will have cracks in it everywhere. Then once dry, so you can’t  smell anything from the infected area (in next day preferably). Recoat with primer slowly and light coats. Then you should be back to painting and blend area and reclear.
  Epoxied? 2 part automotive epoxy?
  Is @ugly_woofer someone on Instagram?

4thtry

Excellent videos.  Thanks for sharing.   I noticed that timing between coats is critical.   Is shop temperature and relative humidity extremely important as well?   Looking forward to part 3.           

hifiside

4thtry said:

Excellent videos.  Thanks for sharing.   I noticed that timing between coats is critical.   Is shop temperature and relative humidity extremely important as well?   Looking forward to part 3.           

Thanks. When spraying 2k clear over enamel timing is very critical. If this was all automotive urethane based paint, timing is less critical until it comes to clearing. Shop temp is in the low 70’s And it’s winter so humidity is low.

Wolf

ugly_woofer is Nick, both here and on PETT. He has used West Systems epoxy a lot, and is familiar enough to coach through the process. I used it and his thoughts to help conjoin my separated laminated structures for my Tandems project. If I didn't hit another set of roadblocks, they might be assembled by now....

jholtz

hifiside said:

Thanks. When spraying 2k clear over enamel timing is very critical. If this was all automotive urethane based paint, timing is less critical until it comes to clearing. Shop temp is in the low 70’s And it’s winter so humidity is low.

Hi Brad,

Basically it's a reaction from different types of paint as I understand it. So, do you have any recommendations for other types of paint that are less susceptible to crazing when top coated with 2K paint? I did some research and it seems that all Krylon paint is enamel based.

Just to show you how old I am, crazing, lifting etc. were always problems back in the 60's, 70's and 80's without a very good sealer and skill of application when mixing lacquer and enamel top coats.

Thanks again for sharing your extensive knowledge. I really appreciate it!

Jim

ani_101

What is the purpose of the cheap paint spray on the primer?

jhollander

It's a guide coat so when you sand you can see the low spots, neat trick vs what you pay for guide coat paint or powder

hifiside

Basically it's a reaction from different types of paint as I understand it. So, do you have any recommendations for other types of paint that are less susceptible to crazing when top coated with 2K paint? I did some research and it seems that all Krylon paint is enamel based.

Just to show you how old I am, crazing, lifting etc. were always problems back in the 60's, 70's and 80's without a very good sealer and skill of application when mixing lacquer and enamel top coats.

Thanks again for sharing your extensive knowledge. I really appreciate it!

Jim

Yes Jim it is a reaction from the different types of paint. The best base coats are urethane for 2k topcoats but there not available widely in a rattle can (yet!). Yes I read all the MSDS sheets on every can of paint I could think of and 95% of them are enamel, even most of the ones that say lacquer. Basecoat-clearcoat was pretty new to everybody when I started so didn’t do a whole lot with lacquer and enamels but a few here and there. I’ve heard plenty of horror story tho.

jholtz

Thanks Brad. I just wanted to verify that I understood what caused the crazing/lifting and how to avoid it.

I'm looking forward to the final stage of color sanding and buffing. I'm particularly interested in your technique and material used.

Great videos!

Jim

hifiside

https://youtu.be/ID5hFbsgRAs

Part 3.

tajanes

This is really great info! Thanks Brad
(don't know if I want to give it a go, or just cry...)

thinking this also works on just a clear coat over wood grain, what clear coat material would you recommend 

hifiside

tajanes said:

This is really great info! Thanks
(don't know if I want to give it a go, or just cry...)

thinking this also works on just a clear coat over wood grain, what clear coat material would you recommend 

I’m a little biased. Automotive 2k clear. Kirker EC300 is great affordable quality clear. 

tajanes

thx

jholtz

Another excellent video Brad! I picked up a lot from it.

Thank you for taking the time to record these videos.

Jim

4thtry

Thanks for sharing.   Lots of good tips here.   I'll be reviewing these videos again and again to get the steps memorized. 

ani_101

Question, can we just use the small 3" buffer? For a floor stander too? Also the cleaning of the pass was of camera, did you just let a screwdriver dig into the pad for cleaning?

jholtz

Hi Brad,

Quick question. I normally shoot water based paint which has little if any oder. I'm only interested in shooting the front baffle of various builds (floor standers) gloss black. I found the Spray Max rattle cans I was interested in on Amazon and thought I'd ask the question about shooting it in my basement work shop. The responses were no.

I set up a temporary paint booth which consists of tarps hanging from the ceiling with plastic covering the floor. I have a large air compressor piped into the work area with plenty of air filtration. However I don't have any air filtration. I use a pro mask but over spray does fill the area.

So my question is can the SprayMax 2K spray cans be used in a spray booth like I've described with out killing me and running my family out of the house in your opinion?

I'd like to step it up from the O'Reilly's rattle cans I'm currently using for the baffle but....

Thanks!

Jim