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RS100P build

Finished up a small build using some speakers I had ordered for a boombox I was going to make but had given upon. So I might as well make a small bookshelf speaker instead. Woofer is the RS100P and a ND25FA tweeter. I have used the tweeter before in a few builds, but this is my first crack at the RS series. Originally I thought I would maybe run the woofer full range and just use the tweeter to fill in the top end. After a few sims I realized that plan wasn't going to work very well, so back to a normal hp/lp filter. Ended up with a 2nd order on the woofer and 3rd on the tweeter - crossover point is at 3k. Cabinet is 1/2" BB with a 3/4" baffle and finished with a few coats of Danish oil. I really quite like how easy it is to apply - wipe on/wipe off😁 I added a small strip of maple down the front of the baffle for a little accent. The plan is to make a small sub to pair with these to help fill in the bottom end which is a little lacking.

Simmed response and final measured in room response

Thought it would be easier to make the baffle removeable to access the crossover instead of trying to fit it through the woofer hole - have to say that I don't like how there is a gap between the baffle and the rest of the box. What do you guys do to seal up removeable panels without gaps?



  • edited December 2020

    If I'm using 3/4" material I like to use 1/2" to 5/8" wide tape that's 1/32" or 1/16" thick. To get an idea of the gaps I put a flashlight in the cab, install the baffle and darken the room. Makes it easy to see where the gaps are and how large they are. I keep the tape about 1/16" to 1/8" away from the outer edges - otherwise the tape expands beyond the edge when the baffle is tightened down. I like to order from since they have a wide variety of tape widths and thicknesses.

    Nice job on the speakers and crossover. I haven't used the RS100, but have heard/read good things about it. One question on the crossover: The system response graphs looks like you have a notch filter on the woofer at 10 KHz (and I think I see it in the photo), but the schematic doesn't show one.

  • Nice little project.

    First thing in regards to the gap;
    What's causing it?
    Slightly angled cuts?
    Over tightening of bolts/screws?
    Bowed baffle wood?
    Lots of possible causes and hard to say which is actually causing it. For a removable baffle I would rabbet the baffle edge so it can slightly inset and also give a super small miter on the boxes accepting panels.

  • BTW, @squamishdroc - super, super clean crossover and driver wiring. Sheesh, maybe I need to stop using wire nuts for my connections. :p

    Don, Donno, or "Hey you" all work for me, But never "Mr Johnson"
  • edited December 2020

    My last few builds I just left the 1/32" gap from the gasket, I'm okay with it. If you really wanted to have the baffle sit flush, cut a rabbet in the cabinet edge so your gasket can sit in a channel and a rabbet in the baffle the baffle edge will sit flush. Just make sure the rabbet is not too deep, you want to make sure the gasket is still fully compressed all the way around.

    Here's an illustration. If I think about it more, you should be able to do this right without cutting the baffle edge at all.

    I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening.
  • Thanks guys

    @Ed_Perkins - you are correct - I left out the cap on the woofer coil in the schematic - oops :) @joeybutts the gaps were from the gasket tape, I tried to get the thinnest stuff on Amazon but maybe I will try @dcibel method next time with the rabbet👍

    @rjj45 - those little brass tabs on the board make it really easy to keep the crossover looking nice and neat. I got the idea from Javad - the tabs you can buy from Mouser - they are really cheap. I prefer this method over doing the point to point under the board as you can just screw/glue the crossover board right to the cabinet - no messing around with stands offs.

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