So, I'll jump in here. Working on a project where the initial plan was to have a cherry veneer sides and back, and a rattle can baffle. Messed up the baffle glue up and needed to route and sand the edge, so now I'm looking at saving the project.
Two main thoughts are roll on finishes with either Duratex with a minimal amount of texture, or GF milk paint.
Worried that Duratex will look too industrial, and that the milk paint will be too fragile to the inevitable bumps and scrapes.
Ideas?
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
Baffle is baltic birch, and glued down. Thanks John - I'll go that route. I have painted a couple of baffles with rolled on milk paint, and like the textured appearance.
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
I've used shellac as well as cheap brush on poly. The poly really soaks into the end grain of MDF and after a few coats you can sand it super smooth. It then takes most paints (Duratex, Rustoleum spray paint) really well.
Some of the weirdest results from sealing was lacquer sanding sealer (thinned clear lacquer) on MDF. I thought I made a brick. The lacquer kept going in the end grain and it didn't get sticky like shellac can.
I need to try this again as I seem to recall I added a coat of shellac at the end.
If I don't fuck up the crossover, these will likely spend some time at a local studio as mixing monitors. He uses powered bass bins, so the F3 of 62Hz will not be an issue.
@6thplanet said:
Yellow cones always look high tech. They look fabulous🤘🏼
Why is that, do you think? There are a 1000000000 colors in the world, and it seems only yellow works on woofer cones. Not green, blue, red, mauve, taupe, chartreuse, purple - unless you are talking really cheap car audio stuff.
Comments
Most engineered materials seem to have an aversion to water, it seems.
Final coats are the glazing putty.
I used to run router edge trimmer around seams after priming, that helped a lot. Should have done this one as well.
I couldn't make Duretex work as a primer
So, I'll jump in here. Working on a project where the initial plan was to have a cherry veneer sides and back, and a rattle can baffle. Messed up the baffle glue up and needed to route and sand the edge, so now I'm looking at saving the project.
Two main thoughts are roll on finishes with either Duratex with a minimal amount of texture, or GF milk paint.
Worried that Duratex will look too industrial, and that the milk paint will be too fragile to the inevitable bumps and scrapes.
Ideas?
If you cut the Duratex with a bit of water and use a foam roller cover, it will yield a fairly smooth finish, similar to interior paint.
Is your baffle MDF and removable?
BIN shellac sealer then GF Milk Paint. Milk paint is not fragile. It gets initial scuff marks after drying but those buff out with a micro fiber cloth
Baffle is baltic birch, and glued down. Thanks John - I'll go that route. I have painted a couple of baffles with rolled on milk paint, and like the textured appearance.
any de-waxed shellac should work well as a sealer. I use it all the time and love it. A little easier on the wallet than the bin.
I've used shellac as well as cheap brush on poly. The poly really soaks into the end grain of MDF and after a few coats you can sand it super smooth. It then takes most paints (Duratex, Rustoleum spray paint) really well.
Some of the weirdest results from sealing was lacquer sanding sealer (thinned clear lacquer) on MDF. I thought I made a brick. The lacquer kept going in the end grain and it didn't get sticky like shellac can.
I need to try this again as I seem to recall I added a coat of shellac at the end.
That looks great JR!
Ok, question. I hear the inside needs to be sealed just as the outside is, or the seams will eventually ghost as the wood breathes?
I've never sealed the inside.
There is probably some merit to the thought of sealing the interior, as well - but not sure. I've never really done any experimenting with it.
I plan on loading drivers and measuring tomorrow. Today is Mrs. JR's birthday, not sure she wants to listen to sine sweeps for four hours!
Anytime you slow the expansion of wood it should help. Two pieces of wood moving in different directions is a tough one to fight.
I really wouldn't call MDF "wood"
These are gonna be fucking sexy.
I love that texture.
Your rebates look perfect. And that waveguide looks like a great match for that diameter woofer. Time to measure.
Clearly too much toe in but other than that it looks good.
Ron
Toe in!!!
Leaned back for time alignment.
They look good.
Yellow cones always look high tech. They look fabulous🤘🏼
Those look very professional. Slap a fancy nameplate on there, call them studio reference monitors and charge $2K for them!
If I don't fuck up the crossover, these will likely spend some time at a local studio as mixing monitors. He uses powered bass bins, so the F3 of 62Hz will not be an issue.
Why is that, do you think? There are a 1000000000 colors in the world, and it seems only yellow works on woofer cones. Not green, blue, red, mauve, taupe, chartreuse, purple - unless you are talking really cheap car audio stuff.
Didn't Vifa have some kind reddish cone with wood fibers years ago?
Yes, more of a mahogany look. I think Nick has a pair in his extensive Vifa collection.
Yep, XT18, and XT15.
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