I like to solder to solid-core wire. Use the foil lead as a sleeve, insert the cleaned enamel wire or copper rod or romex wire into the sleeve and solder. Make it close to the body of the coil, and then apply a glop of E6000 atop of it for holding power.
In fact, I like applying E6000 to the cellophane tape amidst the layers if it is not melted/bonded to make it a more solid structure and prevent kinking of the tape upon mounting. Wax-coil, Cross-coil, Erse brand, and SOLO seem to be rigid enough to not worry about it. However, I've had Alpha-Core/Goertz with the bottom bonded and the top is not. It helps in this case.
Of course, an eyelet helps for the other end connection if you use thick copper. I know the image should likely have the coils orthogonal for better results, but the space was tight and it suffered no illness due to placement.
Here is my solution. On my "Totally Flat MK II" speakers, I used .05mH foil type inductors on the tweeter notch filters. After laying out all the xover parts, I drilled a hole for the inductor and mounted it with a nylon machine screw and nut. I then drilled holes for the multi-position solder lugs, carefully positioning them so that the flat side of the lug aligned perfectly with flat side of the tinned inductor foils. Applying solder and flux produced a secure connection across the entire flat side of the foil and lug. No need to drill holes in the foil.
I found another foil soldering example from my Plantanic speaker archives. In this particular case, I clamped and then drilled small holes through the foil to accomodate 6-32 brass machine screws. Then, I double nutted long 6-32 brass screws to the crossover boards to serve as tie points. Finishing was a simple matter of slipping the foil and several other wires onto the brass screws and then applying solder.
Comments
I like to solder to solid-core wire. Use the foil lead as a sleeve, insert the cleaned enamel wire or copper rod or romex wire into the sleeve and solder. Make it close to the body of the coil, and then apply a glop of E6000 atop of it for holding power.
In fact, I like applying E6000 to the cellophane tape amidst the layers if it is not melted/bonded to make it a more solid structure and prevent kinking of the tape upon mounting. Wax-coil, Cross-coil, Erse brand, and SOLO seem to be rigid enough to not worry about it. However, I've had Alpha-Core/Goertz with the bottom bonded and the top is not. It helps in this case.
Of course, an eyelet helps for the other end connection if you use thick copper. I know the image should likely have the coils orthogonal for better results, but the space was tight and it suffered no illness due to placement.
InDIYana Event Website
Here is my solution. On my "Totally Flat MK II" speakers, I used .05mH foil type inductors on the tweeter notch filters. After laying out all the xover parts, I drilled a hole for the inductor and mounted it with a nylon machine screw and nut. I then drilled holes for the multi-position solder lugs, carefully positioning them so that the flat side of the lug aligned perfectly with flat side of the tinned inductor foils. Applying solder and flux produced a secure connection across the entire flat side of the foil and lug. No need to drill holes in the foil.
I found another foil soldering example from my Plantanic speaker archives. In this particular case, I clamped and then drilled small holes through the foil to accomodate 6-32 brass machine screws. Then, I double nutted long 6-32 brass screws to the crossover boards to serve as tie points. Finishing was a simple matter of slipping the foil and several other wires onto the brass screws and then applying solder.
Damn, I was pondering this exact solution today - great idea, I'm just not an innovator I guess 😊