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Which base coat under 2K clear?

My large Not Qualified speakers are ready for painting. I'd like to spray a base coat of paint and use my Kirker 2K clear urethane over the top. Not sure what basecoat to use.

Right now I'm leaning toward the General Finishes water based milk paint as the base. https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/water-based-paints-glazes/milk-paint
Then spray solvent based 2K clear over the top after 24 hours. GF makes a 2K water based urethane top coat, but It's over $150 for a gallon.

I'm a bit concerned that the solvent based Kirker will trap the moisture if I spray to early or not bond if a wait a week. I don't want to wait more than 24 hours to spray my top coat because of the hassle of setting up a spray area.

Unless someone has some good base coat ideas, the back up plan is spray the GF milk paint and spray GF high performance poly over the top. This combo makes cut and buff more difficult because you can't use water.

 John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails

Comments

  • John, why not use a kirker base with the kirker 2k. No adhesion problems and your 24hr window won't be an issue.

  • I know nothing about milk paint but it sounds like a nightmare if you can’t wet sand it.

  • Look like I can use any urethane basecoat. The problem when I started looking was most basecoats were in gallons ($$$). I've since learned that I can find and buy quarts of urethane base colors.

     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • Summit racing has quarts and it's Sherwin Williams paint.

  • Most paint shops will mix up a pint/half pint.

  • Remember that Kirker paints need to be activated and sometimes converted before using them for base coats.

  • I notice that about the Kirker. Any special tips for spraying basecoat? I heard some say to spray a dry coat but that seems counter intuitive.

     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • Kirker I mix 3:1:1 with slow reducer this time of the year. Do 3 med/wet coats 10-20 min flash time between coats. Then when clearing I progressively get heavier or wetter with each coat. 3 coats.
    If you get too heavy, on the first coat of clear, you could run some thing and that’s gonna make a mess. The last coat wouldn’t make such a mess.

    PWRRYDugly_wooferjhollander
  • I did OK today but got a sag on my last (third) coat :/ My garage set up was not good for particles so I need to cut and buff anyway. The paint job is definitely better than Indiana. Still not as flat as I would have liked.
    Picture show first coat of base, Corvette Victory Red.
    I do like that flat look and might try that in the future.





    PWRRYDSteve_Leetajanes4thtrykenrhodeshifisideTurn26thplanetDrummerNicholas_23
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • What product did you end up using?

  • Well, John, I think I like the flat paint better too.

  • Pictures look great.

  • Wait until you cut and shine that 2K clear. It is a stellar product for sure.

    I have a signature.
  • I used a urethane basecoat from High Teck and Kirker 2K clear. Primer was Upol 2K urethane. There were a few other mfg who sell premixed factory colors.

     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • Those look great, John.
    https://www.colorrite.com/
    Here's a link for factory motorcycle colors. A good friend has used these a few times and the paint jobs turned out great. They are pricey, but great for the guy that doesn't have a spray setup. Glenn .

  • Mistakes were made. I hope to bother Brad in Iowa for a few tips

    PWRRYDSteve_Leehifiside4thtryDrummer
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • Still looks killer🔥

  • Looks great to me.

  • The reflection of the speaker on the side panel looks great (orange peel free) to me John.

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