So I decided to try a dye stain on the interior sections. Didn't work out so well. Water based so it made the grain swell a ton. Thinking of sanding back flat and doing paint instead.
Is there something resilient I can get in quart size that rolls on ok and isn't a mess to work with? Hopefully something that will self level a bit. (Prefer it not look like a truck bed) Would need to be able to hold up to a/v equipment being scooted around and sitting on it for extended periods of time. I do have a Sherwin Williams nearby though I haven't purchased anything there before.
Maybe a catalyzed urethane, or an epoxy, they would both be tough, or alternatively perhaps thin down some duratex and use a fine nap roller so it doesn't have as much texture.
^ Thinned Black Duratex has worked well for me too - that soft wood underneath needs a strong/bonded finish otherwise it may dent easily and eventually release from those dented spots. Looks like sprayed finish with a thin roller/mixed right. I applied it straight from the can 1st, then wet the roller with water and went over the wet base coat until it thinned/laid down and turned a box fan on it - recoat in less than an hour later using same wet roller I had wrapped in plastic bag so it didn't dry out while waiting. (I save all those plastic grocery bags for this purpose - can keep a brush or roller wet/reusable for about a week).
The SW Emerald flattens pretty well when rolled. You can always top coat General Finishes milk paint with water based poly or General Finishes High Performance.
Thanks guys. I don't think any of my projects are worth over $100/gal stuff. But I went along the lines of the SW emerald and got behr door/trim enamel yesterday. Less than half the price. Hopefully it works at least half as well.
I was worried a latex would be too soft and distort/stick from prolonged contact.
Not quite ready to mess with duratex but you guys are softening me up to it. I like to work with stuff I can run out quick and get more of in a pinch. PE is close enough to drive to for me but still over an hour round trip and their showroom hours are more limited than hardware stores.
Saturday I shellacked the top and the separate wall shelves I made from the cutoffs. Also applied a few coats to seal up pieces that won't be seen. As well as surfaces inside the inner shelf that will be painted dark. I think it helped to seal the grain for less telegraphing through the paint. Sofar I like working with shellac. Dry time is minimal so you can really knock out a lot in a couple hours. A bookshelf speaker pair would probably be done finishing in an hour and ready to install drivers.
Painted those surfaces yesterday. I tried to give it the best shot using a mohair roller. The orange peel is still there but much more mute than normal. Helps that this paint seems thinner than I'm used to seeing so it flattens better. But it still has good color coverage. The recommended 2 coats seemed appropriate. With paint, sometimes too thick of a coating can be detrimental to durability. Just takes experimentation. Sofar, when handling the parts just a few hours after application, It feels like it is part of the item when handled rather than a rubbery coating.
As far as Spraying it.. Spraying normal latex is a bit of a pita in my experience. but I think this stuff has a chance to do better.
My wife uses a product called Flood Floetrol when painting with latex paint. It allows the paint to go on really smooth and helps eliminate brush strokes.
Whitewash done. Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 white primer and a little over 50% water. Just brushed on one coat and that is all. No wiping off. Looks much more white in person.
Almost there! Just need to spray with water based poly and assemble.
A reflection shot of the paint. I did no grain filling. Just sand, seal coat and light sand with 400grit to knock down the standing fibers and give tooth. Since it will be going on the inside of the shelf areas I bet this is minimal enough to be totally invisible.
Sealed the whitewash yesterday evening. The wife asked that I finish it while I was off today. So I pushed through and got it back together. Unfortunately entailed a complete reorientation of the livingroom too. No time to get the 3-way done so won't be able to bring it tomorrow.
Finally unboxed the new dumb TV too. Just hooked up the necessities for now. Pulled out an old pair of Insignia coaxial bookshelvs along with stands I built and haven't used for years. The insignias look nice, but they kindof sound like crap. My wife was wondering if it was playing from the TV speakers lol.
@PWRRYD said:
That looks really great. I need to build something similar but not sure I have the same chops as you.
Chops? me? nah. This thing is all 1x2s, 2x2s and 1/2" plywood (besides the top). Only router work was a small roundover on the legs and top. The rest was only sanded. Form following function.
The UM12 does not want to leave it's home.. I might need to get medieval on it tomorrow morning before I leave for Ft Wayne. Hoping someone is interested enough in this maple veneered enclosure to take it home. Otherwise it is likely going to the burn pile .
2cf, cut for a Yung 500w plate amp, however the back plate is removable so you can make your own replacement back plate. I glued on a mounting ring for the um12 to the back of the 1" baffle.. So I suppose you could make your own adapter ring that fills in to mount anything the same diameter or smaller. Magnetic cloth grill included, though magnets are getting a bit weak. This has only been tested and put back in the box so it is pretty prestine and scuff free.
Comments
Amen!
So I decided to try a dye stain on the interior sections. Didn't work out so well. Water based so it made the grain swell a ton. Thinking of sanding back flat and doing paint instead.
Is there something resilient I can get in quart size that rolls on ok and isn't a mess to work with? Hopefully something that will self level a bit. (Prefer it not look like a truck bed) Would need to be able to hold up to a/v equipment being scooted around and sitting on it for extended periods of time. I do have a Sherwin Williams nearby though I haven't purchased anything there before.
I have been really impressed with rust-oleum ultra cover latex paint.
I remember folks talking about paints here. Finally found which thread it was in..
https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discussion/comment/45396#Comment_45396
Maybe a catalyzed urethane, or an epoxy, they would both be tough, or alternatively perhaps thin down some duratex and use a fine nap roller so it doesn't have as much texture.
^ Thinned Black Duratex has worked well for me too - that soft wood underneath needs a strong/bonded finish otherwise it may dent easily and eventually release from those dented spots. Looks like sprayed finish with a thin roller/mixed right. I applied it straight from the can 1st, then wet the roller with water and went over the wet base coat until it thinned/laid down and turned a box fan on it - recoat in less than an hour later using same wet roller I had wrapped in plastic bag so it didn't dry out while waiting. (I save all those plastic grocery bags for this purpose - can keep a brush or roller wet/reusable for about a week).
The SW Emerald flattens pretty well when rolled. You can always top coat General Finishes milk paint with water based poly or General Finishes High Performance.
Thanks guys. I don't think any of my projects are worth over $100/gal stuff. But I went along the lines of the SW emerald and got behr door/trim enamel yesterday. Less than half the price. Hopefully it works at least half as well.
I was worried a latex would be too soft and distort/stick from prolonged contact.
Not quite ready to mess with duratex but you guys are softening me up to it. I like to work with stuff I can run out quick and get more of in a pinch. PE is close enough to drive to for me but still over an hour round trip and their showroom hours are more limited than hardware stores.
Agree 100%, the SW is urethane and the GF is poly based. Not sure what the Behr is.
Edit, let us know how it works. Looks like a urethane?
Saturday I shellacked the top and the separate wall shelves I made from the cutoffs. Also applied a few coats to seal up pieces that won't be seen. As well as surfaces inside the inner shelf that will be painted dark. I think it helped to seal the grain for less telegraphing through the paint. Sofar I like working with shellac. Dry time is minimal so you can really knock out a lot in a couple hours. A bookshelf speaker pair would probably be done finishing in an hour and ready to install drivers.
Painted those surfaces yesterday. I tried to give it the best shot using a mohair roller. The orange peel is still there but much more mute than normal. Helps that this paint seems thinner than I'm used to seeing so it flattens better. But it still has good color coverage. The recommended 2 coats seemed appropriate. With paint, sometimes too thick of a coating can be detrimental to durability. Just takes experimentation. Sofar, when handling the parts just a few hours after application, It feels like it is part of the item when handled rather than a rubbery coating.
As far as Spraying it.. Spraying normal latex is a bit of a pita in my experience. but I think this stuff has a chance to do better.
My wife uses a product called Flood Floetrol when painting with latex paint. It allows the paint to go on really smooth and helps eliminate brush strokes.
Whitewash done. Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 white primer and a little over 50% water. Just brushed on one coat and that is all. No wiping off. Looks much more white in person.
Almost there! Just need to spray with water based poly and assemble.
A reflection shot of the paint. I did no grain filling. Just sand, seal coat and light sand with 400grit to knock down the standing fibers and give tooth. Since it will be going on the inside of the shelf areas I bet this is minimal enough to be totally invisible.
This is a really cool project - always fun to see people build furniture.
Sealed the whitewash yesterday evening. The wife asked that I finish it while I was off today. So I pushed through and got it back together. Unfortunately entailed a complete reorientation of the livingroom too. No time to get the 3-way done so won't be able to bring it tomorrow.
Finally unboxed the new dumb TV too. Just hooked up the necessities for now. Pulled out an old pair of Insignia coaxial bookshelvs along with stands I built and haven't used for years. The insignias look nice, but they kindof sound like crap. My wife was wondering if it was playing from the TV speakers lol.
That turned out great! Very contemporary looking. I'm NOT going to show this to my wife.
Really like the finish - the record player / shelf is really nice, and you got the dust cover to work!!!
The dust cover fits, but it hits the upper board when raised since it rotates back. I'll still probably take it off.
Fabulous work, Drew! Inspirational too.
What TV did you end up getting?
That looks really great. I need to build something similar but not sure I have the same chops as you.
Right on! Looks great dude😎
Sceptre U550CV-U
Chops? me? nah. This thing is all 1x2s, 2x2s and 1/2" plywood (besides the top). Only router work was a small roundover on the legs and top. The rest was only sanded. Form following function.
The UM12 does not want to leave it's home.. I might need to get medieval on it tomorrow morning before I leave for Ft Wayne. Hoping someone is interested enough in this maple veneered enclosure to take it home. Otherwise it is likely going to the burn pile
.
2cf, cut for a Yung 500w plate amp, however the back plate is removable so you can make your own replacement back plate. I glued on a mounting ring for the um12 to the back of the 1" baffle.. So I suppose you could make your own adapter ring that fills in to mount anything the same diameter or smaller. Magnetic cloth grill included, though magnets are getting a bit weak. This has only been tested and put back in the box so it is pretty prestine and scuff free.