I had "Bob" at Rockler CNC my "Dual Exhaust" into a piece of 5x24x1/4" oak hardwood. My plan is to paint it rattle can flat black, then sand the black off to reveal the name. Then sand it smooth with 220, stain it, then 3 or 4 coats of poly. The first pic is straight from CNC milling. The 2nd pic is after a light 220 grit sanding.
I'd be careful of the paint in the grain, as oak is a very open pore wood. You will not be able to get the color out of the grain unless you are doing very aggressive sanding. I usually fill the grain with black pigment, then sand and put a light color on to highlight the grains.
Thanks for the positive feedback and tips. I was thinking about this as well, about getting black paint deep (and permanently) in the grain of the oak. The woodworkers at Rockler didn't mention this problem. I will have to think about this a bit more. One idea would be to carefully mask off the lettering and then use a very fine painter's brush to fill in the lettering (and only the lettering) with flat black.
You could try filling it with black dyed epoxy, you don't even have to do a good job at it, just heat it so there's no bubbles and when it's dry, scrape it off. When you sand it and finish it, the epoxy will have a glossy finish. I did a 60x96x1.5 maple kitchen island top like that, filled in all the cracks with epoxy, scraped, sanded, finished. Looks beautiful. Mom and dad love it.
4thtry, Looks really nice, but it's a shame all that inside work gets covered up where no one else can enjoy the intricacy's of your labor. Kind of off the wall, but can lexan be used to make a cabinet?
4thtry, Looks really nice, but it's a shame all that inside work gets covered up where no one else can enjoy the intricacy's of your labor. Kind of off the wall, but can lexan be used to make a cabinet?
Thanks. I've thought about that. The only practical way that I can think of would be to build a wooden cabinet frame with several large recessed cutouts on all the sides. The recesses would have to be on the inside of the cabinet frame, so that the raw edge of the Plexiglas and glue joints could be hidden from view.
Cool. Thanks for posting; food for thought. But I notice a lack of stuffing material in either speaker. Any ideas on where to find some translucent stuffing material to dampen out internal cabinet resonances?
Comments
I'd be careful of the paint in the grain, as oak is a very open pore wood. You will not be able to get the color out of the grain unless you are doing very aggressive sanding. I usually fill the grain with black pigment, then sand and put a light color on to highlight the grains.
Thanks for the positive feedback and tips. I was thinking about this as well, about getting black paint deep (and permanently) in the grain of the oak. The woodworkers at Rockler didn't mention this problem. I will have to think about this a bit more. One idea would be to carefully mask off the lettering and then use a very fine painter's brush to fill in the lettering (and only the lettering) with flat black.
If you stain and finish first there should be enough depth in the lettering to fill with grain filler or paint. The tinted epoxy idea sounds cool.
What did you use to tint the epoxy?
Thanks. I've thought about that. The only practical way that I can think of would be to build a wooden cabinet frame with several large recessed cutouts on all the sides. The recesses would have to be on the inside of the cabinet frame, so that the raw edge of the Plexiglas and glue joints could be hidden from view.
Didn't know these were on TT.