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I'll get back to you. I'll have to find my photos. If you want to go to the 'Bucket account, you can find the Koylz folder and they should be in there.
You can't 'make money'(cents) winding your own, but you can save a bit. a 10# spool of whatever gauge will run you about $100. I buy from Temco through Amazon, the twice dipped type. The worthwhile gauges are 14-18. I got about 8 various coils from a spool of 14AWG. If you go to 12AWG, you get less than what I would call long enough for most winding use, and the hand cramps are easier to get. I use an LC meter, but a DATS/WT3/WT2 will also work.
I set the spool between my feet rolling toward the couch so I can control tension. I turn the jig by hand to wind.
Wind a bit, and pause where you think it's close. I use a big binder clip to hold the wire in tension to the jig plate while I spot measure. Scratch off some of the insulation carefully just enough to get a reading. Too long? wind back onto spool. Too short? keep going. The scratched area will be covered by the next layer anyway, and in finale, I dip mine in polyurethane and let dry.
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It's easier to use coiled wire from a spool than pre-kinked wire, but it can be used. The motor wire might be a pain to harvest.
As to how much money saved? I did figure it out at one point. For the 14AWG 10# spool as an example, let's call it $100. It does depend on where you buy your coils and such, but just using the 14AWG Air Erse from PE and the Solen 14AWG Perfect Lay from Mad...
I got (with very little waste, and some estimated costs):
2x 0.9mH/2x 19.99/2x $17.50(0.82mH is $17.30)
2x 1.5mH/2x 32.94/2x 22.50
2x 0.35mH/2x ~$14(0.33mH is 13.85)/2x 11.15(0.33mH is $11)
2x 0.485mH/2x ~$18(0.51mH is 18.31)/2x $13.15(0.47mH is $13)
Temco + labor = $100/Erse = $169.96/Solen(Mad) = $128.60
If you get good at it, and they look good, then you can save between $30-$70 per spool of wire you purchase.
...and I've not found a site that sells multi-tapped coils, but I assume the cost will skyrocket for premade ones. I have a proto-board on the burner with 6 coils of the multi-tap air-core variety, listed as follows:
2x 1.0mH/18 with 13 middle taps
1x 5.0mH/16 with 6 middle taps
1x 1.72mH/16(ran out of the spool, and just duplicated the second to match) with 9 middle taps
1x 0.25mH/16 with 5 middle taps
1x 0.75mH/16 with 6 middle taps
I will be getting 2x Super-Q 2.0mH, and up-winding multi-taps to 10mH for the 7th and final pieces.
All but the 1.7mH/16 and second 1.0mH/18 on each board are soldered and wired to the barrier strips. I'm trying to get this done sooner than later, and then I can combine it with the Proto-jig I built a few years ago and the soon to be done L-pad board with 3x 100W L-pads, 2x 15W rheostats, and a pair of homemade variable 10W resistors.
Yes- I am making my own version of the Box of Doom...
There are on-line calculators, and there is an optimal geometry, but I tend to shoot for a 1.5-2" hub diameter due to the jig arrangement. I can scale the length as I see fit. It's just better to try and approximate those of the Solens, et al, to get an optimal geometry. I just wind until I hit the value, and once you wind enough coils you can kind of tell right about where that should be in your jig.
I like to use 1.5" or 2" PVC/ABS or even 2" black polyethylene pipe for the bobbin. If I don't want a bobbin, the center hub is made so I can make them bobbinless. I really like using the steel barbed plastic zip-ties for these, and I HIGHLY recommend you use a zip-tie gun to get them tight. GB types are available from Menards, but not as nice as the Ty-Wrap brand from HD, $20/100. Solen uses the Panduit brand ties, as they are the reference industrial product, but they are expensive (...and Solen does not make them as tight as I like either. I restrapped and dunked the Litz coils I bought.). Their guns are upwards of $300. I have a simple Paladin Tools product, and it cuts the ties when tight for about 1/6 the cost.
I like to wind and unwind my own under 1 mH. I purchase plastic bobbins on ebay and wind with a variable speed drill. I use them mostly in tweeter circuits because I don't mind higher DCR values and there's less likelihood of melting the insulation off the wire.
The benefit is being able to get the value I want right now. I'll post some links when I'm home
Scratch off some of the insulation carefully just enough to get a reading.
That's smart! Thanks, Ron!
Hope that helps,
Hope that helps,Ben
John, I take it your saying the inner dia. is not all that important? Wolf, seeing those pics helps tons. I think I can build something similar cheaply, but it would be nice to not wind all that wire by hand. Will need to work a cordless drill into the mix. Will wood router bits work on plexiglass?
Forstner/spade bits if you have them are a great options for plexi. I used a v-groove router bit at the 7" diameter for the faces of the jig, and circle-cut both faces half-depth of the plexi. Then I sanded the circumference so it wouldn't tear up my hands while in use. The rounded ends of the slots were forstner'd through, and then the center was drilled out to 1/4" for a nylon bolt. The rubber washer is a critical piece to keep the jig from loosening while winding the coils. The slots can be cut via a dremel, jigsaw with plastic cutting blade, or make yet another jig like I did for easy repetition, to use in the miter-saw. Sand the edges, and then lightly hit with a torch to polish if you so desire. I would recommend either 3x or 4x slots in the jig. More will weaken the center's strength, and fewer will allow bunching/bulging of the coil upon removal.
Oh- use the 0.23" or 0.25" plexi if available. Thinner is not strong enough, and thicker is too expensive. I built 2 from scrap pieces I had, and eventually the first one will likely fail. There are stress fractures around the bolt hole from use. If you want to make a second layer or use a large nylon washer for the center, that might be a good idea for prolonged use.
My center hub was cut with a 1.5" hole saw. I like the grip of the particle board around the hub while winding, but maybe a Delrin center might be easier to remove in use.
Craig- yes, I am! Thanks....