I know it wasn't the intent here, but I've seen that question literally start wars on modelling forums before ...
That said, left can as base coat then a *very* brief light misting of the right can should do the trick. ... or ... Depending on how far into "challenge accepted" territory you want to go it is possible to spray really fast with both at the same time so the colors will mix on the surface they are applied to ( assuming they are both acrylic or both enamel; acrylic + enamel gets messy real fast ).
For some reason , I don't believe the yellow was that bright on these planes back then. Which is why I picked up the two colors. If someone with more knowledge on this or a link to reference the yellow used , I would be greatful. I will try to get as close as possible with a rattle can.
Here ya go. Halfway down page 2. The yellow is RLM 04. If you scroll all the way down to page 9 the shade of yellow in the diagram looks to be closest to your krylon can.
I would appreciate any advice on what to use to tape the baffles off with out any bleed through to the other pannels . I was going to use painters tape but I'm not sure how well that will seal once it's on. It's the blue stuff.
Regular masking tape and NOT blue painters tape. I botched my MTM really badly with blue painters tape. It bled right under the tape and messed up the clean lines i spent atleast an hour taping up perfectly.
Yes, what Mike said. Blue painters tape is great for brushed on or rolled on latex wall paint. It sucks for anything sprayed on that is not water based. Just my experience.
I use frog tape, it works great on smooth surfaces. With blue tape I always seal the edge with the covered paint color. I have also sealed the edge with the clear latex caulk but you need to wipe it off with tha damp cloth. If it's not thin enough you can lift the paint.
On the synergy horn I got a bit of bleed through with the the Frog tape but was able to clean it up with an artist brush.
Well , these might be ten footers . I was board last night and decided to paint one of the baffles and ended up with a couple runs . The porch light on the rear deck wasnt enough light. Anyways , will have to sand them down once the paint hardens . Looks neat though , still need to add the mottled paint to the sides and top.
There's an old painters trick where they brush an acrylic seal over the edge of the tape and surface to be painted. Let it dry for an hour or so then paint as planned. When you peel the tape it comes out perfectly! No paint creep under the edge as its been completely sealed.
There's an old painters trick where they brush an acrylic seal over the edge of the tape and surface to be painted. Let it dry for an hour or so then paint as planned. When you peel the tape it comes out perfectly! No paint creep under the edge as its been completely sealed.
The Hell Martay , where were you when I started the paint job ?!?! Tip has been noted and will try it if I ever decide to do something like this again.
Comments
I know it wasn't the intent here, but I've seen that question literally start wars on modelling forums before ...
That said, left can as base coat then a *very* brief light misting of the right can should do the trick. ... or ... Depending on how far into "challenge accepted" territory you want to go it is possible to spray really fast with both at the same time so the colors will mix on the surface they are applied to ( assuming they are both acrylic or both enamel; acrylic + enamel gets messy real fast ).
Definitely between the two if this image is color accurate at all.
Here ya go. Halfway down page 2. The yellow is RLM 04. If you scroll all the way down to page 9 the shade of yellow in the diagram looks to be closest to your krylon can.
On the synergy horn I got a bit of bleed through with the the Frog tape but was able to clean it up with an artist brush.