The 700-800hz. spike, yeah, I can see that being a combination of the port resonance and box width/depth being a little too close to square but was thinking <(that's where the trouble started) the oddball way the walls were reinforced and damped would take care of the box resonance.
As far as a port divider goes; what would happen if a simple plastic divider were glued in place inside the last few inches of straight portion of the port? Would that have an effect on the rez without changing the tuning too much?
Have to look at unibox and check the t/s parameters. Maybe they are wrong.
Based on your model, you should probably not be having a problem in the 75-120Hz area. Regarding the 700Hz glitch and peaking, if you wanted to put a trap at the end of the port to attack this resonance, then the plastic divider would need to be closed on your end, open toward the inside of the port, and stuffed with some type of damping material. Your port is about 10 inches long, so the trap would be slightly less than half this length, or about 4 to 5 inches. I would think that stuffing a 4 to 5 inch trap into the end of the port would significantly impact both the port tuning and air velocity. This would not work.
I am a complete dumba$$.
Chasing ghosts ...
Learned that different speakers sitting in the exact same place in the room do not interact with the room in the same manner. Blue line is inside with the speakers sitting in the normal listening position where I've measured pretty much everything built or bought. Red line is sitting atop the patio railing with the mic on tweeter axis bout 6' above the floor.
So ... looking over other measurements some speakers have the large 85-110hz peak and on others, it's absent. The big not a khanspires have the peak but not nearly as pronounced as the Shys (Orgone?) or NHT2.5i which have very similar peaks in the 85-110hz region. The OS TMM and Sadies have no peak in that region. All have a deep notch around 130-150hz.
My guess would be that this variation is a floor boundary reinforcement effect. Measure the distance from the woofer cone to the floor for all of your speakers and see if you see a pattern.
I use a stout folding chair in the center of my room, angled towards a corner. This changes the floor to woofer distance, and minimizes reflections from parallel or perpendicular walls. Make sure the chair does not resonate to add a blip in your plot. I used a square of sport-flooring to deaden/secure the position.
Was wondering why the NHT didn't sound as boom boxy as the Orgones. Looking at the ungated response makes me wonder if the hotter mid (500hz) and up offset the 100hz boom. Red is nht.
The nht 6.5" woofer is ~34" and has a side firing 8" ~6" above the floor. Have yet to mount feet to the orgoes and woofer is~27" off the floor.
Since the weather has finally cooled off I'm going to set these up in the trailer. They can be positioned anywhere in the room unlike here where the big Carvers and naks dictate everything. Also have several diy absorption panels out there to play with. The panels have acquired some unpleasant scents over the years and will not be brought into the house.
4thtry, you're giving me some ideas to try on the resonance.
Did these PicoNeo in a similar fashion. Red base coat, chrome metalflake, and many layers of translucent black lacquer made from Keda dye. What I did not do and wish I had was use a formica laminate underneath to hide the ghosting. It appears laminate has gone nla around here.
Had them about 3/4 of the way done and couldn't stomach the ghosting. Took them all the way back to wood and socked the bondo to em'. Seams still show but they're on the back and the ones on the sides are not noticeable from the front.
In the picture they look black. With strong room lighting they look like dark cherry with accents. With sunlight shining through the window, they look candy apple red or candy blue, depending on which angle catches your eye. Kind of neat, three colors in one.
Paired them with a tiny fx audio 502a and built a pair of speaker cables. It will be gifted as a package deal to another nephew.
Comments
The 700-800hz. spike, yeah, I can see that being a combination of the port resonance and box width/depth being a little too close to square but was thinking <(that's where the trouble started) the oddball way the walls were reinforced and damped would take care of the box resonance.
As far as a port divider goes; what would happen if a simple plastic divider were glued in place inside the last few inches of straight portion of the port? Would that have an effect on the rez without changing the tuning too much?
Have to look at unibox and check the t/s parameters. Maybe they are wrong.
The published t/s are a little different from JR? measurements but the sim comes out about the same.
Based on your model, you should probably not be having a problem in the 75-120Hz area. Regarding the 700Hz glitch and peaking, if you wanted to put a trap at the end of the port to attack this resonance, then the plastic divider would need to be closed on your end, open toward the inside of the port, and stuffed with some type of damping material. Your port is about 10 inches long, so the trap would be slightly less than half this length, or about 4 to 5 inches. I would think that stuffing a 4 to 5 inch trap into the end of the port would significantly impact both the port tuning and air velocity. This would not work.
I am a complete dumba$$.
Chasing ghosts ...
Learned that different speakers sitting in the exact same place in the room do not interact with the room in the same manner. Blue line is inside with the speakers sitting in the normal listening position where I've measured pretty much everything built or bought. Red line is sitting atop the patio railing with the mic on tweeter axis bout 6' above the floor.
So ... looking over other measurements some speakers have the large 85-110hz peak and on others, it's absent. The big not a khanspires have the peak but not nearly as pronounced as the Shys (Orgone?) or NHT2.5i which have very similar peaks in the 85-110hz region. The OS TMM and Sadies have no peak in that region. All have a deep notch around 130-150hz.
Kornfused. Why the difference?
My guess would be that this variation is a floor boundary reinforcement effect. Measure the distance from the woofer cone to the floor for all of your speakers and see if you see a pattern.
Or set your current speakers on something to change the distance and see if the peak moves (or goes away).
Sehlin Sound Solutions
I use a stout folding chair in the center of my room, angled towards a corner. This changes the floor to woofer distance, and minimizes reflections from parallel or perpendicular walls. Make sure the chair does not resonate to add a blip in your plot. I used a square of sport-flooring to deaden/secure the position.
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
Was wondering why the NHT didn't sound as boom boxy as the Orgones. Looking at the ungated response makes me wonder if the hotter mid (500hz) and up offset the 100hz boom. Red is nht.
The nht 6.5" woofer is ~34" and has a side firing 8" ~6" above the floor. Have yet to mount feet to the orgoes and woofer is~27" off the floor.
Since the weather has finally cooled off I'm going to set these up in the trailer. They can be positioned anywhere in the room unlike here where the big Carvers and naks dictate everything. Also have several diy absorption panels out there to play with. The panels have acquired some unpleasant scents over the years and will not be brought into the house.
4thtry, you're giving me some ideas to try on the resonance.
Wow! What a difference a room makes.
Another Christmas present ready to go.
Did these PicoNeo in a similar fashion. Red base coat, chrome metalflake, and many layers of translucent black lacquer made from Keda dye. What I did not do and wish I had was use a formica laminate underneath to hide the ghosting. It appears laminate has gone nla around here.
Had them about 3/4 of the way done and couldn't stomach the ghosting. Took them all the way back to wood and socked the bondo to em'. Seams still show but they're on the back and the ones on the sides are not noticeable from the front.
In the picture they look black. With strong room lighting they look like dark cherry with accents. With sunlight shining through the window, they look candy apple red or candy blue, depending on which angle catches your eye. Kind of neat, three colors in one.
Paired them with a tiny fx audio 502a and built a pair of speaker cables. It will be gifted as a package deal to another nephew.