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Design concept

PWRRYDPWRRYD
in DIY
I've had this design in my head for quite a while, an old school woofer next to a TM.  So with some downtime at work today I cut out a cardboard baffle.  My 5 year old son colored in the drivers with a sharpie.  These will be ~16 liter 3 way monitors using Peerless 6.5" woofers, the Madisound "special" Scan-Speak 4" as mids, and a NLA gem of a tweeter, the Peerless NE19VVT-04.  This is how it could look:



The overall baffle size is 10"H x 14.5"W.  Any suggestions or opinions?
Face
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Comments

  • jr@macjr@mac
    Cross lower from woofer to mid than you would on a vertical alignment is what I learned from my foray into that baffle layout. Great concept!!!!
    I have a signature.
  • Nicholas_23Nicholas_23
    Not to take away from original post but what are those three ways? Morel mid, scan or usher woofer and the ribbon tweeter is?
  • D1PP1ND1PP1N
    I like this layout. It may actually fit on a desk top easier!
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Hi Nick, thanks for the interest.  That is my Gormacho project.  The drivers are Usher 8945A, Morel CAM558, and Fountek NeoCD1.0.  I brought them to Indy last year and received some very nice compliments on how they sounded and imaged.  I really love how that big dome mid sounds.  I'd say IMHO that the tweeter is the weakest part of an otherwise great project.  I think a small dome tweeter would be a better match.  Maybe a Hiq.  That Usher is an outstanding woofer and does bass and midbass so well.  The curved enclosures are walnut veneer and the removable baffles are solid 1" thick mahogany.  These get a lot of use as they are in our living room hooked up to the TV and CD player.
    Nicholas_23
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Mike you must have a HUGE desk buddy :)  These are going to be 16L.
  • Turn2Turn2
    Solid concept, and I could see where JR's suggestion would be prudent. But I can't look away from the upright 3-way. Those HAVE to sound sweet.
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    I could bring them to Iowa this year.
    Turn2
  • ScottSScottS
    Like the idea.  The mid should play comfortably down to 300 hz or so and as high as you need based on my experience with the TC9.  I would play around with a baffle diffraction simulator a little to get an idea how the layout will affect driver responses.  That might help you make some decisions wrt crossover points and tweaking the layout.
    FacePWRRYD
    Keep an open mind, but don't let your brain fall out.

    Sehlin Sound Solutions
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Great advice Scott, thanks.
  • D1PP1ND1PP1N
    PWRRYD said:
    Mike you must have a HUGE desk buddy :)  These are going to be 16L.
    FaceMzissersongreywarden
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Nice!
  • kennykkennyk
    Love that chair!
    ............. could you hum a few bars.
  • Silver1omoSilver1omo
    The NE19VTT-04 is used in the Picolatta and sounds great in there.
    That 3 way looks really nice.
  • D1PP1ND1PP1N
    kennyk said:
    Love that chair!
    I've sat many many hours at a time in that chair. Its very comfortable and the wheels are great effortless rolling. Only thing i can think of that is a complaint is your tushy can get sweaty after extended periods. Its basically an actual car seat. Its a dxracer chair btw. 
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    I did a bunch of sims in Jeff's response modeler.  Moving the drivers +/- an inch in any direction didn't really make enough of a difference in diffraction for me to change my intial layout.  I'm hoping I can cross the woofer to the mid as high as 450-500 Hz.  That allows the woofer to carry all of the BSL and helps the smaller and lower sensitivity mid out.  If I have to cross lower and pad the mid and tweeter more so be it.  Directivity of the 6.5" woofer, 4" mid, and 19mm tweeter on that baffle should be excellent IF I get the crossover right.
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    The weather is supposed to be fantastic here tomorrow so I should be able to get all the wood cut for these.  My goal is to have these ready for InDIYana.  These will have removable baffles, so if I don't like the SS mid, or the tweeter, I can rebuild them with new baffles.
  • ScottSScottS
    I'm confident you'll have 'em nailed down by Indy.  I am hoping to make it out there again.
    Keep an open mind, but don't let your brain fall out.

    Sehlin Sound Solutions
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    I just got home from my local lumber yard (hardwood supplier).  I scored a beautiful piece of African Padauk, 12" wide x 36" long, planed 1" thick.  Very hard and heavy.  Any tips on machining and finishing it?  I love the natural color unfinished and hope it doesn't change too much.  I know cherry darkens and grays when exposed to sunlight.
  • D1PP1ND1PP1N
    General finishes arm a seal you can just wipe or brush it on. This is paduak on the sides. I sanded up to 220 or 320 depending on the satin/semi/gloss sheen you choose. 

    https://generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-based-top-coats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat#.WJ-LNctMFnE

    Here is a good video to see how it looks and hw easy it is.



    MzissersonNicholas_23JavadS
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Oh wow Mike!  That looks fantastic!!!
    D1PP1N
  • MzissersonMzisserson
    Paduk is one of my fav woods. Just georgous, specially if there is blonde in it too. 
  • D1PP1ND1PP1N
    PWRRYD said:
    Oh wow Mike!  That looks fantastic!!!
    Thanks Craig. It mills nicely but i recommend a sacrificial board be placed on the infeed and out feed of the paduak if you route the edges on a router table. Be careful hogging out the reliefs for the woofers i had a nasty kick on my 10-4 build you helped with and it shot the baffle across the room. I was using a like 1-1/4" 45 degree bit its friggen huge but i let go because it scared me! Also some people said the dust is harmful, im fine right now but you know probably not worse than mdf. Its dense and heavy and one of my favorite hardwoods! 

    That project record holder i posted the pic of still looks great and the finish held up well. That particular piece had a killer grain pattern. 
  • D1PP1ND1PP1N
    Also, Tom would be a better resource for this but i believe if you seal the paduak with shellac then apply arm-r-seal after its dry it will prolong the original hue of the wood but i think overtime it will always darken. 
  • MzissersonMzisserson
    D1PP1N said:
    Also, Tom would be a better resource for this but i believe if you seal the paduak with shellac then apply arm-r-seal after its dry it will prolong the original hue of the wood but i think overtime it will always darken. 
    I used Paduk veneer for a couple of projects years back and used poly on it, it looks almost like a mahogany now, but took several years to get there. 
  • FaceFace
    Keep it away from sunlight to preserve the color.
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Yesterday was a great weather day and I was able to get all the wood panels cut.  It's 45 and sunny today but very windy.  Still I'm hoping to get the driver cutouts, rebates, and backside chamfers cut in the padauk baffles.  On a side note:  the NHRA Winter Nationals is on this afternoon woohoo!!!!
    jr@mac
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Oh, and I will definitely be wearing my 3M dust mask when working with the padauk.  I did a bunch of sanding on walnut a couple of years ago without a mask and developed a little cough that hung on for 2 months :( 
    greywarden
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    Just an update.  The baffle machining is complete.  I need to finish sand them then apply some sort of finish.  The MDF enclosures are also complete.


    jhollanderjr@mackennykD1PP1NTurn2ThumperTomS7910Silver1omogreywardenMzisserson
  • trcosetrcose
    [whistles]

    Nice wood.
  • D1PP1ND1PP1N
    You already have finish on that puppy? Looks good!
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