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Design concept

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  • Enough about the Zobel Master...  back to my little project astonished   Here is a shot of the oak veneered enclosures in their new black suits:


    D1PP1Njr@macMzissersonkennykTurn2greywardenjhollander
  • The stain took really nicely. 
  • I tried a couple of staining techniques and none of them gave me the desired results (more grayish than black). I read threads about the nightmares of India Ink and other various schemes. Believe it or not this is Rustoleum Satin Black from a rattle can :astonished: but they actually turned out exactly how I wanted!!!! The finish turned out flawless. Hopefully the pudauk baffles end up just as nice.
    D1PP1N
  • I recommemd the arm r seal green can from general finishes. The right side is general finishes the left one is water based poly from menards. I feel like the grain popped better. 
    Mzisserson
  • PWRRYD said:
    I tried a couple of staining techniques and none of them gave me the desired results (more grayish than black). I read threads about the nightmares of India Ink and other various schemes. Believe it or not this is Rustoleum Satin Black from a rattle can astonished but they actually turned out exactly how I wanted!!!! The finish turned out flawless. Hopefully the pudauk baffles end up just as nice.
    Hot damn, that turned out nice
  • Yup, looking good. I'm sure the baffles will set them off!
  • Nice work!  They're gonna look fantastic after the finish is applied!  The Padauk should really pop on the black cabinets.
  • I sure hope so!  I've got two coats of clear dewaxed shellac on them so far.  The second coat didn't lay down as flat so I need to sand that out.  Then a couple thin coats of poly for protection.  I can't wait to assemble them and take the inbox measurements.
  • edited March 2017
    Gee..... I remember that honey KRELL, but what else is on the right?
    PS: X-Mas trees aren't room treatments.
    ............. could you hum a few bars.
  • Its an oppo d105, a krell preamp, phono stage and im nt sure what record player he has now. Its super clean and if the record is in reasonable condition you cant really tell its a record. That stand weighs a few hundred lbs too. 
  • Thx, I'm full of the green monster. Some day I will have such an amp.
    ............. could you hum a few bars.
  • Just finished the second coat of poly on the padauk.  Very happy with how the baffles turned out.  You guys don't have any idea how stressed out I get over the finishing steps.  It is definitely my weakest aspect of DIY.
  • Pics to follow soon.
  • PWRRYD said:
    Pics to follow soon.

    I was gunna say! You are killing us here, Craig... 

    The black, you said you used Rustolium low gloss, was it paint? 
  • That's some great work you've done there! I designed a speaker in that style as well, except it is 4x smaller. It should sound really good. 

    That Scanspeak midrange is seriously interesting. Upon first look the frequency response is pretty bad. But a closer look will reveal this is an amazingly well designed driver that will require no crossover components to sound its best in a correct sized baffle and box! It's the first driver I've seen where the speaker's natural response includes BSC, baffle step diffraction peak compensation, and a rising treble response that flattens out at a 30 degree angle. 

    What does this mean for your speaker? Your BSC is going to be a little tricky because you're undoing the built in EQ on the driver that was meant for full range use. Chances are you may not even have to do the BSC for the midrange because the built in BSC will fit well enough for your speaker. However, you will be left with that 1000Hz dip in the frequency response because that dip was originally meant to cancel out a diffraction induced 3dB peak due to centering the driver horizontally within a baffle. But because your midrange is not centered, you won't have a diffraction induced peak. Not sure what you can do about it unless you have an active crossover. 

    As for the tweeter/midrange crossover, based on your picture, the centre to centre spacing between the tweeter and woofer calculates to be essentially exactly 3". This is small enough that I would recommend a crossover frequency of 2250Hz, which has a half wavelength of 3". This allows the speaker to have only one lobe at +- 90 degrees, which results in outstanding off axis performance because of essentially non-existent lobing interferences (the lobing at +- 90 degrees is relatively benign because it is right at the edges of the speaker)

    Keep us updated on your build!
  • PWRRYD said:
    Pics to follow soon.

    I was gunna say! You are killing us here, Craig... 

    The black, you said you used Rustolium low gloss, was it paint? 
    Sorry for the lack of updates and pictures.  I'm waiting for Rustoleum rattle can spray paint to fully cure and stop stinking.  I also want the poly on the baffle to fully cure before I mount it and drivers to it.  So all those parts are just sitting in the unfinished part of my basement with a fan blowing on them.  Should be able to start assembling them this coming weekend.

    In the mean time I have started a small prototype project just for S&G's.  I'm using scrap pieces of particle board for the boxes.  I have a cheap pieces of adler or something like that to use for the baffle.  It will be a 3 way using a ND90-8 in a 4L ported box for the woofer, a TC9FD open baffle for the mid, and a ND16FA for the top octave and a half.
  • bcodemz said:
    That's some great work you've done there! I designed a speaker in that style as well, except it is 4x smaller. It should sound really good. 

    That Scanspeak midrange is seriously interesting. Upon first look the frequency response is pretty bad. But a closer look will reveal this is an amazingly well designed driver that will require no crossover components to sound its best in a correct sized baffle and box! It's the first driver I've seen where the speaker's natural response includes BSC, baffle step diffraction peak compensation, and a rising treble response that flattens out at a 30 degree angle. 

    What does this mean for your speaker? Your BSC is going to be a little tricky because you're undoing the built in EQ on the driver that was meant for full range use. Chances are you may not even have to do the BSC for the midrange because the built in BSC will fit well enough for your speaker. However, you will be left with that 1000Hz dip in the frequency response because that dip was originally meant to cancel out a diffraction induced 3dB peak due to centering the driver horizontally within a baffle. But because your midrange is not centered, you won't have a diffraction induced peak. Not sure what you can do about it unless you have an active crossover. 

    As for the tweeter/midrange crossover, based on your picture, the centre to centre spacing between the tweeter and woofer calculates to be essentially exactly 3". This is small enough that I would recommend a crossover frequency of 2250Hz, which has a half wavelength of 3". This allows the speaker to have only one lobe at +- 90 degrees, which results in outstanding off axis performance because of essentially non-existent lobing interferences (the lobing at +- 90 degrees is relatively benign because it is right at the edges of the speaker)

    Keep us updated on your build!
    Brian,
     
    It will be a hybrid design with passive xo for the MT and a miniDSP for the woofer to the MT.  So I will have lots of flexibility.
  • I just finished assembling the monitors.  Let the measurements commence!!!


    kennykTurn2Nicholas_23S7910greywardensquamishdroc
  • When you measure, try the speakers on end.
    ............. could you hum a few bars.
  • Wow, that runed out real nice...!!!
  •  Vuuurrryy nice, man!!  =)
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