Found some wood in the garage that I forgot or didnt know about. Not sure where it came from as I've never used this stuff. I was looking for scrap pieces to build baffle thickness for another pending Versabox baffle and found this stuff. Thought it was neat enough to be a front and center aesthetic point for this design. I had more than enough for the job but not much more. I sanded it down first to clean it up and applied polyurethane to seal it. Then I used the trusty West Systems epoxy and a scrap plastic faux credit card to spread it across the surface evenly. I have yet to fill in the pores completely, but have some Dap Walnut Plastic-wood for contrast in that process. I then glued it to a piece of 3/4" thick plywood for thickness, cut to width and length, and sanded the edges. I will likely just apply polyurethane to the edges and backs. I don't know that the AMTHR4 will allow for a double sided routing like in the Jaekels and Itasca, but time will tell. I saved as much of the spalting effect as possible, and effectively cut it in the best spot to provide effects at the top of both baffles, and have mirrored slots from the T111. I like how it looks. I like how it feels to the touch.
I have a channel void to fill at the bottom of one that goes from side to side before I route rebates. I also plan on a small chamfer along the front vertical edges.
That thought has definitely crossed my mind. I've wanted to do that ever since Ed LaFontaine built the 2 pair of "hay bails" out of OSB.
Step 1- apply a coat of epoxy
Step 2 - apply a second coat of epoxy
Step 3 - sand and repeat ad infinitum
My old infinite baffle rig for measuring buyout drivers was 100% OSB. Worked fine for that purpose. Other than covering OSB with paper backed veneer, not sure how else I would finish it and be happy with the look.
I did glue a 3/4" thick plywood to the back for thickness, so it is closer to 1" thick now.
I'm hoping the shallower grooves are less detrimental to the FR.
Braved the cold with long underwear and a heavy coat to get the last bit of woodworking done. Basically just worm-channel-filling and finishing left before I can do whoops on these....
Heads up for those considering these AMTHR4 tweeters, the recess was cut with a half inch pattern bit. However, the corners on the tweeters are about a 3/16" radius. The 3/8" straight bit was used to cut those by hand afterwards.
Layered up and finished all but and up to needing to apply the finish coat(s), but the rest is done. Used black hot glue to fill the spalted bits aka worm eaten channels. The effect worked in some ways and not in others, but should suffice this time around. I was watching Four Eyes Furniture on YouTube that gave me the idea. He uses 123 aluminum blocks to flatten the glue while it cools, then scrapes off the excess with a chisel, and/or ultimately resurfaces his workpieces via the CNC. I wanted the contrast to the pine ply color via the black material, and used a combination of a spare heatsink and chisel, or just the chisel depending on where the pending flaws were located. After a good power resand with 320, a scrape with a wire brush, and a quick vacuum of the surface, it looks mostly okay. If the wood was less grooved like the T111 happens to be, I feel the effect would have been better targeted.
Having a drill press was mandatory for boring the baffle mounts for the bolts due to the channels in the surface. Took some fenagling, but got it licked. Used a rabbet bit for the rear-side scallops.
I had a massive 3 hour measurement fest this afternoon. Measured for the 3 pending Versabox designs; this one, Itasca, and Jaekels, as well as getting the final information measured for the Pangolins after that last reported tweak.
So- data dump number one....
I took FR and HD for the drivers mounted in the Versabox, and used a 40uF cap on the AMTHR-4 this time vs the 25uF of the previous. It should have left enough to show the required rolloff information.
Comments
What I show above is it so far. Judging from the graphs, it rolls off naturally about 2k, but HD is good to roughly 1.5k.
InDIYana Event Website
Found some wood in the garage that I forgot or didnt know about. Not sure where it came from as I've never used this stuff. I was looking for scrap pieces to build baffle thickness for another pending Versabox baffle and found this stuff. Thought it was neat enough to be a front and center aesthetic point for this design. I had more than enough for the job but not much more. I sanded it down first to clean it up and applied polyurethane to seal it. Then I used the trusty West Systems epoxy and a scrap plastic faux credit card to spread it across the surface evenly. I have yet to fill in the pores completely, but have some Dap Walnut Plastic-wood for contrast in that process. I then glued it to a piece of 3/4" thick plywood for thickness, cut to width and length, and sanded the edges. I will likely just apply polyurethane to the edges and backs. I don't know that the AMTHR4 will allow for a double sided routing like in the Jaekels and Itasca, but time will tell. I saved as much of the spalting effect as possible, and effectively cut it in the best spot to provide effects at the top of both baffles, and have mirrored slots from the T111. I like how it looks. I like how it feels to the touch.
I have a channel void to fill at the bottom of one that goes from side to side before I route rebates. I also plan on a small chamfer along the front vertical edges.
InDIYana Event Website
At some point I want to do a build with OSB.
https://ibuildit.ca/projects/making-a-powered-sub-woofer/
That thought has definitely crossed my mind. I've wanted to do that ever since Ed LaFontaine built the 2 pair of "hay bails" out of OSB.
Step 1- apply a coat of epoxy
Step 2 - apply a second coat of epoxy
Step 3 - sand and repeat ad infinitum
They look really cool if done right.
InDIYana Event Website
My old infinite baffle rig for measuring buyout drivers was 100% OSB. Worked fine for that purpose. Other than covering OSB with paper backed veneer, not sure how else I would finish it and be happy with the look.
Those boards look exactly like the plywood siding panels I used to sheath my shed. They took exterior latex paint very well.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plytanium-Plywood-Siding-Panel-T1-11-8-IN-OC-Nominal-19-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-563-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-113699/100000016
The link says 19/32, so that is the thicker stuff with deeper grooves. The stuff I used here is only 3/8" thick.
InDIYana Event Website
Ok so even crappier material than my shed siding... you go with that!
I did glue a 3/4" thick plywood to the back for thickness, so it is closer to 1" thick now.
I'm hoping the shallower grooves are less detrimental to the FR.
InDIYana Event Website
Braved the cold with long underwear and a heavy coat to get the last bit of woodworking done. Basically just worm-channel-filling and finishing left before I can do whoops on these....
InDIYana Event Website
Thanks for sparing us a picture- holiday related or not. ha
Heads up for those considering these AMTHR4 tweeters, the recess was cut with a half inch pattern bit. However, the corners on the tweeters are about a 3/16" radius. The 3/8" straight bit was used to cut those by hand afterwards.
InDIYana Event Website
Layered up and finished all but and up to needing to apply the finish coat(s), but the rest is done. Used black hot glue to fill the spalted bits aka worm eaten channels. The effect worked in some ways and not in others, but should suffice this time around. I was watching Four Eyes Furniture on YouTube that gave me the idea. He uses 123 aluminum blocks to flatten the glue while it cools, then scrapes off the excess with a chisel, and/or ultimately resurfaces his workpieces via the CNC. I wanted the contrast to the pine ply color via the black material, and used a combination of a spare heatsink and chisel, or just the chisel depending on where the pending flaws were located. After a good power resand with 320, a scrape with a wire brush, and a quick vacuum of the surface, it looks mostly okay. If the wood was less grooved like the T111 happens to be, I feel the effect would have been better targeted.
Having a drill press was mandatory for boring the baffle mounts for the bolts due to the channels in the surface. Took some fenagling, but got it licked. Used a rabbet bit for the rear-side scallops.
More to come when sweeps are taken...
InDIYana Event Website
I had a massive 3 hour measurement fest this afternoon. Measured for the 3 pending Versabox designs; this one, Itasca, and Jaekels, as well as getting the final information measured for the Pangolins after that last reported tweak.
So- data dump number one....
I took FR and HD for the drivers mounted in the Versabox, and used a 40uF cap on the AMTHR-4 this time vs the 25uF of the previous. It should have left enough to show the required rolloff information.
AMTHR-4:
HD:
FR of 0/15/30/45 horizontal axes:
SIG180-4:
HD:
0/15/30/45:
InDIYana Event Website
InDIYana Event Website