I got a preassembled device from PE years ago on clearance. I think it only used a single tube. Was something cheap to mess around with but have only pulled It out of the box to inspect.
Is this really simple? Bill and Tom did a bunch of mods and testing to get it to this point.
Are there simple to follow steps to get this to complete - as I do not posses either the knowledge / skills / tools to debug this. Or this is only for the tube gurus who know what they are doing
I had not watched the original video link. But I had followed the thread, even though I don't understand it all. If you watch the video and follow Bill's guide, I'm assuming that with a soldering iron, a few replacement parts (and maybe a Dremel?) this shouldn't be too hard. (Of course my assumption could be wrong, we'll see.)
You'll do fine with this project. This kit is really simple to build in it's stock form and it will make music right away if your soldering is decent. Just make sure you get the correct resistors in the right places. You will probably have some low level hum with no music playing, but that's where cutting the traces and bypassing the power switch come in. You don't have to take it to the next level, but I think adding the feedback resistor and using bigger, better coupling caps are worth the time and few extra dollars.
FWIW - There are quite a few of these kits on Amazon. I just put that first link up as an example. They are all pretty much the same - just compare the layout of the boards and you'll know. Caps and resistors might come from different manufacturers, but it's a crap shoot as to the brand you get. I ordered from two different vendors and got the same blue boards, but slightly different caps.
@Kornbread said:
Everybody is ordering the exact one mentioned in the first post?
I have ordered that one and delivery is expired between Jan 30 and Feb 8.
Ya, that one has the green PCB and is shipped from California via the US postal service. That is why it took me 2 weeks or so to get my kit ( SE Wisconsin). Tom got the blue PCB version and I think they have 50V rated blue colored 470uF caps (correct me if I am wrong). My kit had 35V rated green colored 470uF caps. So, it is probably best to try to find the blue kit with 50V caps. With my variac dialed up to exactly 120vac, I get +32, 0, -32vdc on my caps using a 12vac 450ma rated Radio Shack transformer. 32 volts is fairly close to the 35V cap rating, so probably best to use 50V 470uF caps. Jameco sells a 12vac 0.5amp wall wart with a cable that will plug right into the jack on this kit. It is only about 9 bucks, so I would recommend trying that wall wart. Jameco also sells a 12vac 1.0amp wall wart, which will result in too high of a B+ or heater supply voltage. So get the smaller one.
2 weeks to get here from California seems ridiculous to me, but some of the logistics used by different carriers has had me scratching my head at times. When I built my Pass F6 clone, the case came out of Italy and seemed to meander around Europe for a few weeks before finally crossing the ocean.
I didn't know your kit had 35v rated caps. Yeah, that's cutting it a little close for me.
Darn you two (lol)... I'm done building vacuum tube "power" amps as most of the basic parts have become so stupidly expensive. But I just can't get my interest away from tubes in general.
I'll start a new thread to document my new tube guitar preamp project so not to clutter up your cool thread.
Tube guitar preamp...yeah! That sounds like fun. I built a few guitar amps based on an AX84 design. Only 1 of the 3 ever really sounded decent. I admit to being very naive when it comes to guitar amps. They are a different beast.
found a couple of Amazon links for the blue board:
The first one is couple of $ more but is shipped by Amazon and also has prime and free returns (so if you are a bigger idiot like me, and make 0 progress you can retun the kit within 30 days).
The second one is cheaper but is not shipped by Amazon and no prime or free returns but has a 6% coupon!
@jr@mac said:
This turned in to quite the popular topic.
Which one of you is going to write the "for idiots" tutorial? Asking for a friend.
We will have to call it the "For idiots by idiots" tutorial! The first paragraph of the tutorial will need to include a very long personal liability disclaimer.
@ani_101 said:
yes a for idiot guide would be quite helpful!!!
found a couple of Amazon links for the blue board:
The first one is couple of $ more but is shipped by Amazon and also has prime and free returns (so if you are a bigger idiot like me, and make 0 progress you can retun the kit within 30 days).
The second one is cheaper but is not shipped by Amazon and no prime or free returns but has a 6% coupon!
These are high quality Rubycon 470uF 50V caps with a 10,000 hour rating, 105C temp rating, and dimensions of 10x20mm with a 5mm lead spacing. They should drop right in. And they are only about 5 bucks for a 10 pack!!!
Also note that the green board kits do NOT include the volume control knob and the four standoffs with screws. Standard US 6-32 hardware will not fit the holes on the PCB. So if you order the green boards, you will have to purchase four M3 metric standoffs and screws. And find a knurled shaft type knob.
@jhollander said:
I ordered the green board so I'll replace the caps after it arrives.
Before you place a mouser order for the caps, you will also want to order the four replacement 3.3uF polyester caps at the same time. I found a version of the WIMA 3.3uF 50V polyesters that comes with longer leads (reel - cut tape packaging, not bulk packaging). This will allow you to mount the 3.3uF caps slightly proud so that they do not touch the resistors on each side. The spacing is very tight on the PCB. Here is a link to the mouser part number:
Mouser also sells this same 3.3uF cap with very short leads, which will not work on the PCB unless you add lead extension. I know, because that is what I had to do on my other kit.
@jhollander said:
I ordered the green board so I'll replace the caps after it arrives.
Before you place a mouser order for the caps, you will also want to order the four replacement 3.3uF polyester caps at the same time. I found a version of the WIMA 3.3uF 50V polyesters that comes with longer leads (reel - cut tape packaging, not bulk packaging). This will allow you to mount the 3.3uF caps slightly proud so that they do not touch the resistors on each side. The spacing is very tight on the PCB. Here is a link to the mouser part number:
Mouser also sells this same 3.3uF cap with very short leads, which will not work on the PCB unless you add lead extension. I know, because that is what I had to do on my other kit.
I like Wimas, but why not replace a polyester with another polyester?
Lead tine on the cheaper board was out there but only 1 remaining of the more expensive board ... was 1 remaining. Should have a lot of the components in a better quality part laying around here some where.
@ani_101 said: @4thtry Bill, for the Blue board image posted ablove, does the kit look complete or do we need to get anything else right off the bat?
NOTE: Text below edited. The C13 cap should be 8mm with a lead spacing of 3.5mm. Correction made
There is one thing that I would change. The kit looks like it includes a total of nine 470uf 50V caps that measure 10mm in diameter with a 5mm lead spacing. This creates no problem for 8 of the 9 caps. However, the space allowed on the PCB for the C13 heater supply cap is only 8mm in diameter with a narrower 3.5mm lead spacing, so one of the 10mm diameter caps will not fit into this spot. My green kit came with a 8mm diameter 680uF 16V cap, which fits with no problem. So you should probably replace this cap with a 25V 470uF or 680uF unit that has a diameter of only 8mm. I'll check Mouser for a substitution and link it here in a few minutes.
EDIT: Here is a link to Rubycon 680uF 25V, 105C temp rated cap that will fit the slot for C13. It is 8mm in diameter with 3.5mm lead spacing and will drop right in. It is a little taller, 20mm, than the original cap but that should not create a problem.
@jhollander said:
I ordered the green board so I'll replace the caps after it arrives.
Before you place a mouser order for the caps, you will also want to order the four replacement 3.3uF polyester caps at the same time. I found a version of the WIMA 3.3uF 50V polyesters that comes with longer leads (reel - cut tape packaging, not bulk packaging). This will allow you to mount the 3.3uF caps slightly proud so that they do not touch the resistors on each side. The spacing is very tight on the PCB. Here is a link to the mouser part number:
Mouser also sells this same 3.3uF cap with very short leads, which will not work on the PCB unless you add lead extension. I know, because that is what I had to do on my other kit.
I like Wimas, but why not replace a polyester with another polyester?
I'm not following your question. Could you expand on this a little?
That looks like the same kit I bought, Ani. Everything except the 12v AC wall wart should be included.
Also just a note - 4-40 screws work great for mounting the board. You should be able to find those and some appropriate spacers or tubing at the hardware store.
@ani_101 said:
Thanks for catching that Tom, looks like the correct barrel size is not avaialbe on Amazon - I'll edit my post above.
Ani, I am not sure which one would be correct. I have not ordered this particular wall wart from either Amazon or Jameco. I have a plug that I cut off from one of Jamico's 16vac wall warts that I have been using with the kit and it works fine. This particular 16vac wall wart was listed as having a 2.5mm x 5.5mm plug, so I simply assumed that the same size plug would work with the kit supplied jack. But the 2.1mm plug might also work because I think these jacks have a center pin that will accept either a 2.1 or 2.5mm plug. When you insert the plug, the sleeve on one side of the jack forces the center pin in contact with the hole. All you can do is to purchase one and see if it works.
The description for the 6J1 kit says it's a 2.5mm inner pin on the jack, so that seems to be at odds with all the in-stock AC to AC wall warts on Amazon right now. You could always hard wire it since you'll probably be adding a switch.
EIDT - Bill might be right about that jack. Only one way to tell, but I'm at work right now.
Comments
I got a preassembled device from PE years ago on clearance. I think it only used a single tube. Was something cheap to mess around with but have only pulled It out of the box to inspect.
I have ordered that one and delivery is expired between Jan 30 and Feb 8.
Is this really simple? Bill and Tom did a bunch of mods and testing to get it to this point.
Are there simple to follow steps to get this to complete - as I do not posses either the knowledge / skills / tools to debug this. Or this is only for the tube gurus who know what they are doing
I'm going to rely on Bill's write-up. There's not a lot to lose, and I like soldering
I had not watched the original video link. But I had followed the thread, even though I don't understand it all. If you watch the video and follow Bill's guide, I'm assuming that with a soldering iron, a few replacement parts (and maybe a Dremel?) this shouldn't be too hard. (Of course my assumption could be wrong, we'll see.)
You'll do fine with this project. This kit is really simple to build in it's stock form and it will make music right away if your soldering is decent. Just make sure you get the correct resistors in the right places. You will probably have some low level hum with no music playing, but that's where cutting the traces and bypassing the power switch come in. You don't have to take it to the next level, but I think adding the feedback resistor and using bigger, better coupling caps are worth the time and few extra dollars.
FWIW - There are quite a few of these kits on Amazon. I just put that first link up as an example. They are all pretty much the same - just compare the layout of the boards and you'll know. Caps and resistors might come from different manufacturers, but it's a crap shoot as to the brand you get. I ordered from two different vendors and got the same blue boards, but slightly different caps.
Ya, that one has the green PCB and is shipped from California via the US postal service. That is why it took me 2 weeks or so to get my kit ( SE Wisconsin). Tom got the blue PCB version and I think they have 50V rated blue colored 470uF caps (correct me if I am wrong). My kit had 35V rated green colored 470uF caps. So, it is probably best to try to find the blue kit with 50V caps. With my variac dialed up to exactly 120vac, I get +32, 0, -32vdc on my caps using a 12vac 450ma rated Radio Shack transformer. 32 volts is fairly close to the 35V cap rating, so probably best to use 50V 470uF caps. Jameco sells a 12vac 0.5amp wall wart with a cable that will plug right into the jack on this kit. It is only about 9 bucks, so I would recommend trying that wall wart. Jameco also sells a 12vac 1.0amp wall wart, which will result in too high of a B+ or heater supply voltage. So get the smaller one.
https://www.jameco.com/z/ACU120050RS0940-Jameco-ReliaPro-12VAC-500mA-AC-to-AC-Wall-Adapter-Power-Supply_2179614.html
2 weeks to get here from California seems ridiculous to me, but some of the logistics used by different carriers has had me scratching my head at times. When I built my Pass F6 clone, the case came out of Italy and seemed to meander around Europe for a few weeks before finally crossing the ocean.
I didn't know your kit had 35v rated caps. Yeah, that's cutting it a little close for me.
Darn you two (lol)... I'm done building vacuum tube "power" amps as most of the basic parts have become so stupidly expensive. But I just can't get my interest away from tubes in general.
I'll start a new thread to document my new tube guitar preamp project so not to clutter up your cool thread.
Tube guitar preamp...yeah! That sounds like fun. I built a few guitar amps based on an AX84 design. Only 1 of the 3 ever really sounded decent. I admit to being very naive when it comes to guitar amps. They are a different beast.
This turned in to quite the popular topic.
Which one of you is going to write the "for idiots" tutorial? Asking for a friend.
yes a for idiot guide would be quite helpful!!!
found a couple of Amazon links for the blue board:
The first one is couple of $ more but is shipped by Amazon and also has prime and free returns (so if you are a bigger idiot like me, and make 0 progress you can retun the kit within 30 days).
The second one is cheaper but is not shipped by Amazon and no prime or free returns but has a 6% coupon!
Both of them have the blue board and 50V caps
https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Amplifier-Vacuum-Electron-Preamp/dp/B07Z9BDKM6/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?keywords=6J1+Tube+Fever+Pre+Amplifier&qid=1705501177&sr=8-22-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Electron-Amplifier-Headphone-Preamplifier-Fidelity/dp/B07NP4687W/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?keywords=6J1+Tube+Fever+Pre+Amplifier&qid=1705500952&sr=8-17-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1
see blowup image of kit (this is from the Amzon shipped link - the first one)
We will have to call it the "For idiots by idiots" tutorial! The first paragraph of the tutorial will need to include a very long personal liability disclaimer.
If you can't get the blue kit with 50V caps, I found a "drop in replacement" for these 470uF caps on Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rubycon/50ZLJ470M10X20?qs=T3oQrply3y8yVcNhFVklew==
These are high quality Rubycon 470uF 50V caps with a 10,000 hour rating, 105C temp rating, and dimensions of 10x20mm with a 5mm lead spacing. They should drop right in. And they are only about 5 bucks for a 10 pack!!!
Also note that the green board kits do NOT include the volume control knob and the four standoffs with screws. Standard US 6-32 hardware will not fit the holes on the PCB. So if you order the green boards, you will have to purchase four M3 metric standoffs and screws. And find a knurled shaft type knob.
I ordered the green board so I'll replace the caps after it arrives.
Before you place a mouser order for the caps, you will also want to order the four replacement 3.3uF polyester caps at the same time. I found a version of the WIMA 3.3uF 50V polyesters that comes with longer leads (reel - cut tape packaging, not bulk packaging). This will allow you to mount the 3.3uF caps slightly proud so that they do not touch the resistors on each side. The spacing is very tight on the PCB. Here is a link to the mouser part number:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2B043301H00KI00?qs=sJjjjplDs9uHoLZ6981vOQ==
Mouser also sells this same 3.3uF cap with very short leads, which will not work on the PCB unless you add lead extension. I know, because that is what I had to do on my other kit.
I like Wimas, but why not replace a polyester with another polyester?
@4thtry Bill, for the Blue board image posted ablove, does the kit look complete or do we need to get anything else right off the bat?
Lead tine on the cheaper board was out there but only 1 remaining of the more expensive board ... was 1 remaining. Should have a lot of the components in a better quality part laying around here some where.
NOTE: Text below edited. The C13 cap should be 8mm with a lead spacing of 3.5mm. Correction made
There is one thing that I would change. The kit looks like it includes a total of nine 470uf 50V caps that measure 10mm in diameter with a 5mm lead spacing. This creates no problem for 8 of the 9 caps. However, the space allowed on the PCB for the C13 heater supply cap is only 8mm in diameter with a narrower 3.5mm lead spacing, so one of the 10mm diameter caps will not fit into this spot. My green kit came with a 8mm diameter 680uF 16V cap, which fits with no problem. So you should probably replace this cap with a 25V 470uF or 680uF unit that has a diameter of only 8mm. I'll check Mouser for a substitution and link it here in a few minutes.
EDIT: Here is a link to Rubycon 680uF 25V, 105C temp rated cap that will fit the slot for C13. It is 8mm in diameter with 3.5mm lead spacing and will drop right in. It is a little taller, 20mm, than the original cap but that should not create a problem.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rubycon/25ZLQ680MEFC8X20?qs=T3oQrply3y%2B1GFQt4J3ZQw==
I'm not following your question. Could you expand on this a little?
That looks like the same kit I bought, Ani. Everything except the 12v AC wall wart should be included.
Also just a note - 4-40 screws work great for mounting the board. You should be able to find those and some appropriate spacers or tubing at the hardware store.
Hey Tom, referring to Bill's comment above, does the caps all fit on the blue board?
Also, is this the AC wall wart?
edit: The barrel size is wrong. Refer to the wall wart Bill posted
~~https://www.amazon.com/Reliapro-ACU120050F4031-Adapter-Transformer-Straight/dp/B00B88637C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3PEVE4KO5F7N7&keywords=2VAC+500mA+AC-to-AC+Wall+Adapter&qid=1705507417&sprefix=2vac+500ma+ac-to-ac+wall+adapter,aps,148&sr=8-3
This looks like the same wall wart posted by Bill, but from Amazon, want to make this would work.
~~
My first one came with all 470uf caps and they all fit just fine. I never populated the second one, but it looked the same.
I think the plug dimensions are different on that supply. The one Bill linked has a 2.5mm x 5.5mm plug.
Thanks for catching that Tom, looks like the correct barrel size is not avaialbe on Amazon - I'll edit my post above.
Ani, I am not sure which one would be correct. I have not ordered this particular wall wart from either Amazon or Jameco. I have a plug that I cut off from one of Jamico's 16vac wall warts that I have been using with the kit and it works fine. This particular 16vac wall wart was listed as having a 2.5mm x 5.5mm plug, so I simply assumed that the same size plug would work with the kit supplied jack. But the 2.1mm plug might also work because I think these jacks have a center pin that will accept either a 2.1 or 2.5mm plug. When you insert the plug, the sleeve on one side of the jack forces the center pin in contact with the hole. All you can do is to purchase one and see if it works.
That's interestign Bill, this item too has free returns, so there is no risk i guess if it doesn't fit. I'll add it back to the cart
Nevermind, my reading comprehension sux. It looks like you replaced a questionable brand 3.3polyester with a Wima 3.3polyester.
Anyhow, I'll wait for the 'instructions for dummies' before ordering any of the better quality parts.
The description for the 6J1 kit says it's a 2.5mm inner pin on the jack, so that seems to be at odds with all the in-stock AC to AC wall warts on Amazon right now. You could always hard wire it since you'll probably be adding a switch.
EIDT - Bill might be right about that jack. Only one way to tell, but I'm at work right now.