Sounds like a thin pressed melamine or mdf type product? I have seen something applied to a solid wood but painted door to make the surface flat and grain free. I thought it was basically just 1/8" thick mdf at the time.
It's also known as HDF - Tempered High Density Fiberboard - does not contain silica but is smooth and flat usually in 1/8 ~ 3/14" thickness - they make tool pegboard out of it.
Are you going to go the whole hog, take dual channel measurements, and do the crossover design with data from both vertical and horizontal from 0 out to 360 degrees?
@Steve_Lee said:
It's also known as HDF - Tempered High Density Fiberboard - does not contain silica but is smooth and flat usually in 1/8 ~ 3/14" thickness - they make tool pegboard out of it.
@tktran said:
Are you going to go the whole hog, take dual channel measurements, and do the crossover design with data from both vertical and horizontal from 0 out to 360 degrees?
No. I only did a 0,15,30,60 deg horizontal. Distortion on each driver and port distortion. At the levels this speakers will be played all those other measurements sound back breaking as they weigh around 100lbs. Each. I sold them last night anyway so they will get a new home next week.
@hifiside said:
Masonite is what it’s always be called around here too. Guess I’ve never seen hardboard veneer.
I got some piece of equipment in the last couple of years with an small piece of extremely dense 1/8 inch hardboard, smooth and slick on both sides. I've always assumed that it was HDF. Definitely not masonite. I'll see if I can find it...
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
"Masonite is a brand name for "hardboard". It has been commonly known as "masonite" after the founder of the Masonite Corporation, William Mason, invented this wood product in 1924."
Hardboard or HDF (high density fiberboard) is stronger and more dense than MDF. This is sometimes surprising because a lot of HDF comes in 1/8" thick sheets which are easy to break. But if you glue sheets together (e.g., for curved cabinets) at 1/2" thick becomes clear that it is stronger and denser than MDF.
I have got 4' x 8' sheets of the "smooth on both sides" option from one of the big box stores before, either Home Depot, Lowe's, or Menards but I don't remember which one. The smooth on one side, rough on the other is easy to find.
^ this is what I was thinking since it is so flat and slick finished right from the factory - edges need treatment or cut with a 45* router bit but easily finished.
I have used it as cross bracing in cabinets because its lateral strength is high while it's weight and internal volume consumption are both very low. I am thinking of finishing some rough woofer module test boxes in it to see how it turns out - eventually.
HDF/hardboard has its place and uses. I have used it as a joint cover for cabinet ends like in my Cecropia build. It is easier to finish, and covers the other joints underneath without telegraphic.
I also used it as the dominant material in the Tandems translam build process, but it is not finished yet. I've had cracking and separation to deal with among other things on that one. Still not certain I've mitigated all of the issues there.
As Nick says; "Wood moves." and "MDF and HDF are porous and need sealed. You can suck air through them."
Id like to hear these too , got some kind of bug thats knocked my dick in the dirt for the past few days though. I wonder how they would sound on a tube amp.
Comments
Can’t say I’ve heard of it. Like flooring?
Sounds like a thin pressed melamine or mdf type product? I have seen something applied to a solid wood but painted door to make the surface flat and grain free. I thought it was basically just 1/8" thick mdf at the time.
It's also known as HDF - Tempered High Density Fiberboard - does not contain silica but is smooth and flat usually in 1/8 ~ 3/14" thickness - they make tool pegboard out of it.
If it’s a 100% wood? it will move and telegraph
Are you going to go the whole hog, take dual channel measurements, and do the crossover design with data from both vertical and horizontal from 0 out to 360 degrees?
I believe this is what your talking about.?
No. I only did a 0,15,30,60 deg horizontal. Distortion on each driver and port distortion. At the levels this speakers will be played all those other measurements sound back breaking as they weigh around 100lbs. Each. I sold them last night anyway so they will get a new home next week.
No, hardboard is that dark brown stuff. Smooth on one side and rough on the other.
We call that Masonite.
Masonite is what it’s always be called around here too. Guess I’ve never seen hardboard veneer.
I got some piece of equipment in the last couple of years with an small piece of extremely dense 1/8 inch hardboard, smooth and slick on both sides. I've always assumed that it was HDF. Definitely not masonite. I'll see if I can find it...
"Masonite is a brand name for "hardboard". It has been commonly known as "masonite" after the founder of the Masonite Corporation, William Mason, invented this wood product in 1924."
Hardboard or HDF (high density fiberboard) is stronger and more dense than MDF. This is sometimes surprising because a lot of HDF comes in 1/8" thick sheets which are easy to break. But if you glue sheets together (e.g., for curved cabinets) at 1/2" thick becomes clear that it is stronger and denser than MDF.
I have got 4' x 8' sheets of the "smooth on both sides" option from one of the big box stores before, either Home Depot, Lowe's, or Menards but I don't remember which one. The smooth on one side, rough on the other is easy to find.
That post gave me deja Vu, have we been through this before?
So the wood I already posted is hardwood or hardboard which in my part of the country is Masonite.
I like the poly backed or 20-mill paper backed veneer. I still get telegraphing with 10-mil paperbacked veneer.
This is what I referred to as hardboard, usually comes in 1/8 and 1/4"
We’re all thinking the same thing. And to tell you the truth I can’t say I’ve tried it yet. Might have to.
Brad, didn't you use that as an insert on one of your speakers in 2017 or 2018? I remember you painted it to look almost like slate.
This is the one I remember -
Yes I use it a lot but not in the way we were discussing it above.
^ this is what I was thinking since it is so flat and slick finished right from the factory - edges need treatment or cut with a 45* router bit but easily finished.
I have used it as cross bracing in cabinets because its lateral strength is high while it's weight and internal volume consumption are both very low. I am thinking of finishing some rough woofer module test boxes in it to see how it turns out - eventually.
HDF/hardboard has its place and uses. I have used it as a joint cover for cabinet ends like in my Cecropia build. It is easier to finish, and covers the other joints underneath without telegraphic.
I also used it as the dominant material in the Tandems translam build process, but it is not finished yet. I've had cracking and separation to deal with among other things on that one. Still not certain I've mitigated all of the issues there.
As Nick says; "Wood moves." and "MDF and HDF are porous and need sealed. You can suck air through them."
InDIYana Event Website
Those worked out better than I thought.
How long are these going to be in the shop? I have Thursday off, might stop by.
They head to their new owner Thursday. I will be heading towards Mitchell Thursday at noon.
Id like to hear these too , got some kind of bug thats knocked my dick in the dirt for the past few days though. I wonder how they would sound on a tube amp.
Shucks. I won't get there in time - my Ortho is at 9:30.
I'm in Colorado, but if you just aim them out the garage doors...
I have to build another set anyway.