Well technically speaking, a constrained layer requires a "viscous" layer and mortar, IMO, isn't viscous, that's why I used silicone. Mortaring the tiles to the MDF (if that would even work) would just be adding mass to the walls, which would probably work as well, but I don't think mortar would hold the tiles in place, silicone sticks to nearly everything.
I used Liquid Nails to attach ceramic tiles inside my enclosure when I built a pair of Ben's Stances. That worked out really well! He nailed the xo design and the added mass on the enclosure walls was the icing on the cake.
Fast forward a couple years... I used almost two tubes of bathroom silicone caulk to attach many pieces of ceramic floor tile to the inside surfaces on my curve sided Gormacho's. I think that project is one of my best! So safe to say I am a believer in adding mass. It fits so perfect with DIY... because we can!
Got my 3/4" Sonic Barrier in today. Maybe I'll have some time this weekend to get these boxes lined and some router work done. I won't have them finished for Iowa, but I've decided to bring them along so people can see them if they want to.
Got some flush trimming done today. After spending almost an hour looking for tools and adjusting things, and cleaning - it took about 5 minutes to do. Also of note, I've never had to trim so little off my butt joints before, so I guess I've leveled up my wood working skill haha. I was going to finish up the flush trimming with some sanding but I can't find my RO sander anywhere, so I'll have to wait until dad gets home and ask him where it is.
Inspired by this thread, I just completed a constrained layer experiment on my current coaxial project. This really works!!! I glued several 1/4" by 1.5" by 7" long steel bars every 6 or 7 inches along the inside of the midrange and woofer cabs. I set the bars in a 1/2" thick "bath" of 100% silicone rubber cement. Each bar weighs about 10 or 11 ounces. I have one cabinet fitted with the bars and one without bars. Makes a HUGE difference!!
I found the same thing except I used cheap on sale ceramic floor tiles from Menards. I think they were about $0.59 for each 12" x 12" tile (1/4" thick). They are easy to sxore and break into smaller sizes. I used this technique when I built Wolf's Stances and again when I did my curve sided 3 way Gormachos. Definitely an audible difference and so cheap and easy. Only down side I can see is a very slightly larger enclosure to account for the internal space lost.
Is the tile going to be covered by another layer of wood, or foam (the ham on a ham sammich)?. If not ...
I'm wondering about the ceramic tile. Yes, it's surely going to stiffen the box, and the silicone may dampen some of the vibrations, but ... untreated basements and block buildings are loud. I've laid carpet in rooms that previously had bare concrete, or tile floors, the difference in acoustics was noticeable.
It sounds like a contradiction, but what about cement (backer) board? There's something about it's composition (full of tiny styrofoam pellets and fibers) ... for lack of a better description, it just has less sound. It could be used in the same manner as the tile and it's easy (can be cut with a knife), but messy to work with.
Not trying to rain on the parade, just thinking out loud.
Yeah I bought two sheets of 3/4" Sonic Barrier, the one with the mass loaded vinyl layer in it. I've used it in the past and really liked it, so I'm using it again on this project.
It takes me so long to build a set because everything is stupid overkill, I mean, y'all saw the damn gold plated monkey nips on the back of the LSS's I built, right? The deadhorses had two sets lol.
Has anyone played with greenglue? I have wanted to use it, just slow at projects
I contacted green glue a loooooooooong time ago, like 5 years ago about their products, way before I saw people using it on home theaters and studios, nothing really came of it, but I still get emails from them on occasion.
I found the same thing except I used cheap on sale ceramic floor tiles from Menards. I think they were about $0.59 for each 12" x 12" tile (1/4" thick). They are easy to sxore and break into smaller sizes. I used this technique when I built Wolf's Stances and again when I did my curve sided 3 way Gormachos. Definitely an audible difference and so cheap and easy. Only down side I can see is a very slightly larger enclosure to account for the internal space lost.
My cost for the steel bars was quite a bit higher. I paid approx. 10 bucks for each 1/4" by 1.5" by 4 foot bar. I cut the bars up in short 7" lengths. Each cabinet took two 4 foot bars, so my total cost for both speakers was about $40. Think I will try ceramic floor tiles on my next project!
I actually hooked up the coax drivers the other day to see how badly they sucked, and they actually sound pretty good. Like, car audio good, not hifi good haha. Hopefully I can make them sing with a few crossover parts!
Channing, has this project stalled or been completed? Looking forward to reading more!!
It's been on stall for a while. Car issues, Iowa, moved, school, etc. also, it's been below freezing for the past 3 weeks, so I'm not going outside anyway. All the tools are 45 min away at the parents' house. And I work 6-7 days a week.
I was thinking about it the other day. As soon as I can, I'll finish up the boxes, all the silicone and tile work is done, so it's just wood work from here on out.
Comments
Fast forward a couple years... I used almost two tubes of bathroom silicone caulk to attach many pieces of ceramic floor tile to the inside surfaces on my curve sided Gormacho's. I think that project is one of my best! So safe to say I am a believer in adding mass. It fits so perfect with DIY... because we can!
Added mass is a good thing for cabs! And your Gormacho 3-ways were very nice!
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
Inspired by this thread, I just completed a constrained layer experiment on my current coaxial project. This really works!!! I glued several 1/4" by 1.5" by 7" long steel bars every 6 or 7 inches along the inside of the midrange and woofer cabs. I set the bars in a 1/2" thick "bath" of 100% silicone rubber cement. Each bar weighs about 10 or 11 ounces. I have one cabinet fitted with the bars and one without bars. Makes a HUGE difference!!
Thanks for the inspiration!!
I'm wondering about the ceramic tile. Yes, it's surely going to stiffen the box, and the silicone may dampen some of the vibrations, but ... untreated basements and block buildings are loud. I've laid carpet in rooms that previously had bare concrete, or tile floors, the difference in acoustics was noticeable.
It sounds like a contradiction, but what about cement (backer) board? There's something about it's composition (full of tiny styrofoam pellets and fibers) ... for lack of a better description, it just has less sound. It could be used in the same manner as the tile and it's easy (can be cut with a knife), but messy to work with.
Not trying to rain on the parade, just thinking out loud.
IMO & YMMV
It takes me so long to build a set because everything is stupid overkill, I mean, y'all saw the damn gold plated monkey nips on the back of the LSS's I built, right? The deadhorses had two sets lol.
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
I was thinking about it the other day. As soon as I can, I'll finish up the boxes, all the silicone and tile work is done, so it's just wood work from here on out.