Here is my beloved 1000x. I need to borrow JR’s term and say this thing is a beast mode amp. 1000wrms class AB, rated .006% thd. I really love the styling of the heatsink and logo, but I find the underside equally beautiful with that giant transformer. 8ga internal jumpers, and all those output devices!
it is way too much power for this application so as mentioned I plan to run it 8ohm stereo for about 150w per sub.
I don’t want the amps showing end to end, and there is not room to put them both centered, so as of right now I’ve decided the US wins the beauty contest and will be the one shown. The PPI will likely be hidden all together.
Sorry for the slow progress, I’ve gotten sidetracked by some household projects.
My wife asked me to make a picnic table, so I sealed some pine boards that my father in law and I had sawed from a tree he cut on his property a few years ago. I really like the way the protectant brought out the grain. Sorry, I know this is very off topic..
Here is the Eclipse head unit. It will be nice installing it in here with all the room behind it. I’ve had to get creative before and use some brute force to get it in some cars before with all the preouts and the external power supply.
I did start trying to make a dash kit to correct for the angle of the radio opening that is angled toward the floor. I pulled out a gm universal kit for 90s cars and started cutting. This is where I’m at now. Not sure if it will turn out or not. It also has to cover the big opening that someone hacked in the dash sometime over the last 50 years.
I did start trying to make a dash kit to correct for the angle of the radio opening that is angled toward the floor. I pulled out a gm universal kit for 90s cars and started cutting. This is where I’m at now. Not sure if it will turn out or not. It also has to cover the big opening that someone hacked in the dash sometime over the last 50 years.
So holding on to those old kits does pay off - I tossed a whole rubbermaid bin of old install lits last year - couldn't even give them away
Yeah, definitely. I bought a few extra kits when I worked at Best Buy about 15 years ago. I wish I would have stocked up on accessories like this just to have. The kits sold on the floor for $12-$16 and were about $2-$4 with employee discount. Craziest discount was gm antenna adapters. $11 on the floor, about 90 cents on employee discount. At those prices I should have bought several totes full!
Got it a chance to enjoy the car a little. I took it down to “license to cruise” (which should be called license to park your car).
Its a car show where they block off about 8 blocks of the downtown street for a night. It was fun. A sea of people. I got lots of good comments on the car which was cool.
I got the head unit in. I didn’t like the bracketry I made so I just put it in with a trim ring like the old one was. I might do a little more with it later. It’s helpful the motorized face angles up too.
Got it the trunk wiring all buttoned up. I always relay my remote turn on if there are multiple amps. Wiring that 1000x is a bit of a hassle as it has two positives and two grounds on a barrier strip along with the speaker outs instead of 1/0 lugs like it should. I’d be lying if I said there aren’t arc marks on one of the speaker outputs from me trying to put the +12 to it many years ago rushing to get it wired for an spl competition.
Switching it into “Pro Mode” makes me feel so cool, lol. In standard mode it has front/rear/sub outs with crossover, a basic adjustable eq, and a basic time alignment function. Pro mode turns it into a three way output with a highly adjustable parametric eq and time alignment adjustable on each channel to a tenth of a millisecond. I was just playing around with it, so these crossover points and slopes may not stay. The enthusiastic me wants to get out the omnimic and measure all driver distances and model the active crossover, but the realistic me will probably take some basic physical measurements to dial in the time alignment somewhat close, play with the crossover til it sounds decent and call it good.
I found that the pseudo noise track helps with fine tuning the timing/(distance Pioneer HU). I used it to listen to both channels at the same time and adjusted my timing until the sound was balanced left and right ear. Good Luck
I made a lot of progress today. It doesn’t look like it but it’s playing and somewhat dialed in. Sounds decent so far.
I got the wiring to the hu and kicks buttoned up and tucked away. With a giant arcing “Whap!” I connected the power to the battery for the amps and fired it up.
I did did the basic physical measurements from drivers to my ears and adjusted time delays accordingly. I set the crossovers at 80 and 2k, 24db across the board (to make it simple). The time alignment section also allows individual driver level control so it was nice not having to make 20 trips to the trunk to dial gain.
I was was having a hard time figuring out how to make a bracket to hang the pods from the kick panels, so I ended up using hinges that I just tacked with the welder. Ended up working out pretty good. I ended up putting one screw in the bottom to stabilize it. One screw in the panel to hold the whole thing on isn’t too bad I guess. If it was an original numbers-matching car I wouldn’t have done it but then again I wouldn’t have done any of this!
Couple of pics with wires hidden. The kicks didn’t turn out the greatest and they stick out a lot due to the giant magnets, so if these get ruined I’ll probab fab new ones that are flusher for smaller drivers.
all that is left for now is to finish up the trunk panels and dial things in. I also plan to do an alternator upgrade to a later model 12si.
Comments
Here is my beloved 1000x. I need to borrow JR’s term and say this thing is a beast mode amp. 1000wrms class AB, rated .006% thd. I really love the styling of the heatsink and logo, but I find the underside equally beautiful with that giant transformer. 8ga internal jumpers, and all those output devices!
it is way too much power for this application so as mentioned I plan to run it 8ohm stereo for about 150w per sub.
I don’t want the amps showing end to end, and there is not room to put them both centered, so as of right now I’ve decided the US wins the beauty contest and will be the one shown. The PPI will likely be hidden all together.
My wife asked me to make a picnic table, so I sealed some pine boards that my father in law and I had sawed from a tree he cut on his property a few years ago. I really like the way the protectant brought out the grain. Sorry, I know this is very off topic..
Got it a chance to enjoy the car a little. I took it down to “license to cruise” (which should be called license to park your car).
Its a car show where they block off about 8 blocks of the downtown street for a night. It was fun. A sea of people. I got lots of good comments on the car which was cool.
I got the head unit in. I didn’t like the bracketry I made so I just put it in with a trim ring like the old one was. I might do a little more with it later. It’s helpful the motorized face angles up too.
Got it the trunk wiring all buttoned up. I always relay my remote turn on if there are multiple amps. Wiring that 1000x is a bit of a hassle as it has two positives and two grounds on a barrier strip along with the speaker outs instead of 1/0 lugs like it should. I’d be lying if I said there aren’t arc marks on one of the speaker outputs from me trying to put the +12 to it many years ago rushing to get it wired for an spl competition.
Switching it into “Pro Mode” makes me feel so cool, lol. In standard mode it has front/rear/sub outs with crossover, a basic adjustable eq, and a basic time alignment function. Pro mode turns it into a three way output with a highly adjustable parametric eq and time alignment adjustable on each channel to a tenth of a millisecond. I was just playing around with it, so these crossover points and slopes may not stay. The enthusiastic me wants to get out the omnimic and measure all driver distances and model the active crossover, but the realistic me will probably take some basic physical measurements to dial in the time alignment somewhat close, play with the crossover til it sounds decent and call it good.
I made a lot of progress today. It doesn’t look like it but it’s playing and somewhat dialed in. Sounds decent so far.
I got the wiring to the hu and kicks buttoned up and tucked away. With a giant arcing “Whap!” I connected the power to the battery for the amps and fired it up.
I did did the basic physical measurements from drivers to my ears and adjusted time delays accordingly. I set the crossovers at 80 and 2k, 24db across the board (to make it simple). The time alignment section also allows individual driver level control so it was nice not having to make 20 trips to the trunk to dial gain.
I haven’t messed with any eq yet.
Insulated spades make easy fuse connectors
I was was having a hard time figuring out how to make a bracket to hang the pods from the kick panels, so I ended up using hinges that I just tacked with the welder. Ended up working out pretty good. I ended up putting one screw in the bottom to stabilize it. One screw in the panel to hold the whole thing on isn’t too bad I guess. If it was an original numbers-matching car I wouldn’t have done it but then again I wouldn’t have done any of this!
Couple of pics with wires hidden. The kicks didn’t turn out the greatest and they stick out a lot due to the giant magnets, so if these get ruined I’ll probab fab new ones that are flusher for smaller drivers.
all that is left for now is to finish up the trunk panels and dial things in. I also plan to do an alternator upgrade to a later model 12si.
I walled off the sides of the baffle board to help create more of a barrier from front to back to help minimize cancellation.
Mocking up, cutting out, and carpeting the trim boards.
Final product, don’t mind the dust and sawdust all over the amp and carpet, that will get cleaned up.
thanks for following along with the most drawn out install ever and all the kind comments!