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  • ive switched to all water based products. My ceiling is completely sealed off in my garage so i need to go through the wall or into the attic. I could mount jt on the wall or ceiling with a bracket. My neighbor built a box around his with a few air filters. 
  • Here is a mock up of the drivers and somewhat glossy maple baffles:


    jr@macjhollanderMartyHjholtzD1PP1NNicholas_23kennykGowarjj45R-Carpenterand 4 others.
  • So you did do the hivi RT1.3s, hope you like them.
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • Those look fantastic Craig. 
  • So you did do the hivi RT1.3s, hope you like them.
    Having never heard them I went soley on yours and Wolf's recommendations.  Well that and I have used and heard several other planar tweeters (my Trials project, Wolf's Stances, Scott's Matrix, etc) and really like how those sound.
  • Very nice! Love the look of that maple.  What are your box dimensions? I have a pair of the aluminum 5" on the way. Hope mine turn out that nice.
  • Very nice work on the baffles - how did you do all the milling without getting any burn marks? 
    I always get a few burns which spoils the cosmetics.
    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • Thanks!  I am very pleased with how they turned out.  After the last coat of clear lacquer they were very shiny.  Too shiny actually.  It made them look kinda fake, like they were plastic.  So I softened them up a bit with 0000 steel wool, then applied a coat of paste wax with a white Scotebrite pad.  I like that after buffing off the wax they are still shiny, just softer and more real looking.  They feel silky smooth when you run your hand over them.

    I just need to apply one more coat of black Duratex (DIY Iowa door prize) on the old enclosures, then I can assemble them and start taking in-box measuresments for the xo design.  That's the part of speaker building I really enjoy. 


    Speaking of which, I think it's awesome that CSS is selling flat packs and that Mike C. and Roman offer CNC baffle work.  Cutting up MDF and routering baffles is starting to get a little long in the tooth for me.  But I almost feel like buying flat pack enclosures or paying for CNC'd baffles would be like having an extra marital affair behind my table saw and router's back... LOL
    D1PP1Ncssaudio14thtry
  • rjj45 said:
    Very nice work on the baffles - how did you do all the milling without getting any burn marks? 
    I always get a few burns which spoils the cosmetics.

    Your router speed is too high and if possible prepare yourself so you can make a single continuous feedrate  without stopping the material. Then touch up with sand paper. 
  • The Duratex turned out great!
  • I always get scared when i dilute duratex it has like a white/blue haze that i think will show up but goes away after stiring it up.
  • Thanks for the Duratex tips Mike.  They turned out just how I wanted them to.
  • Np, learned most from Bryan. I added to shellac base coat to help save duratex and allow you to put on a thinner coat. Like if i do regular 2 coats is super thick and rough. With shellac and a little dillution i can do 3 or 4 coats very thin and smash them down so its more like 600 grit instead of 60 grit!
  • D1PP1N said:
    Np, learned most from Bryan. I added to shellac base coat to help save duratex and allow you to put on a thinner coat. Like if i do regular 2 coats is super thick and rough. With shellac and a little dillution i can do 3 or 4 coats very thin and smash them down so its more like 600 grit instead of 60 grit!
    Yes exactly.  I ended up with 220 grit :)
  • 600 was an estimate. 220-320 is more accurate
  • I think I could have thinned it a bit more.
  • what tips?
  • That 320 grit probably saved me from making a wall hanger out of the guitar build Im doing. It was a happy mistake on my part , the 220 was too aggressive for the grain filler I was using .
  • @ani_101

    Craig wanted the duratex more smooth than the standard coarse roller.

    1) Buy the fine foam paint rollers from menards (8 for $10) or harbor freight has 4 packs of worse quality ones)

    2) dilute duratex with water and mix thoroughly

    3) use foam roller to shellac cabinets (2-3coats) sand smooth if its not smooth. I just dunk the roller in the sealcoat shellac. Be quick you can apply liberally and spread it but finish with smooth full length strokes if it gets sticky its drying stop rolling that area. You can let it dry or dunk the roller again and fix the area.

    4) i use 2 paper plates for duratex or other finishes i put the duratex on the plate and get some on the roller and use the 2nd new plate to roll it out and get even coat on the foam roller so it doesnt blotch. 

    5) apply duratex and try to keep it to lighter coats you will be able to see the cabinet underneath the first coat or two. I try to do 3 light coats. 

    6) in between these 2-3 coats have a 2nd roller prepped with a new roller. Use this roller to matte the finish down. If you time it right it will smash the finish down and barely leave any on the roller. 
    ani_101
  • edited March 2018
    Thanks Mike - how much water do you use to dilute? This is for the roll on or the spay on duratex?
  • Just the roll on version i havent tried the spray grade yet. I dont measure the amount of water i just eye ball it. It doesnt get wattery its still thick but i pour some out and just splash some water on it and mix until it gets a little thinner. 
  • I diluted the roller stuff and sprayed it in my drywall texture gun.  Similar to this one
    https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/1-12-gallon-gravity-feed-texture-air-spray-gun-60314.html

    I painted the surface first with duratext and brush and smooth roller.  That was on my wide body PA speaker.


    D1PP1NNicholas_23squamishdrocJasonP4thtrykennyk
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • edited March 2018
    I listened to the prototype crossovers last night for about an hour and another listening session today for about 40 minutes.  I'm really really close... stuck between two different padding resistor values on the tweeters.  I really like the air and detail with the smaller resistor but there are a number of tracks where it's a tiny bit too much and the larger value would be easier to live with.  Decisions! :#
  • Also my prototypes were constructed with various cheap caps paralleled together to achieve desired values.  Same with some series'd together resistors.  So I just placed an order from PE for the correct valued Audyn Q4 caps and Mills resistors.
  • I diluted the roller stuff and sprayed it in my drywall texture gun.  Similar to this one
    https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/1-12-gallon-gravity-feed-texture-air-spray-gun-60314.html

    I painted the surface first with duratext and brush and smooth roller.  That was on my wide body PA speaker.


    I remember those John.  Extremely professional looking.  But wasn't that the project that got 15's banned from your house?    :s
    JasonP
  • I think it was the purples...
  • It was the PA speakers that got the 15's banned.  The purple ones I blamed on PE.  Both are still in the storage room, not likely to see daylight any time soon. 

    Kind of unfortunate because I did fix the PA speaker's x-o.   I thought I had Scott S. talked into taking the Purple ones, maybe he was just being nice.   :)
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • PWRRYD said:
    Here is a mock up of the drivers and somewhat glossy maple baffles:


    So have you heard the SBs yet? I'm really feeling pulled to the SB12CAC or SB15CAC for my next build.
    R-Carpenterkennyk
    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • Hi Don,
    I've been listening to these for the last two weeks.  I love them, they are fantastic woofers with excellent midrange!  I just finished voicing the crossovers for my 2 ways using these and the HiVi planars.  I couldn't be happier.
    Craig
     
    jholtz
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