Many people pick a brand and a color and stick to it forever to help increase their print quality and efficiency.
I have used PLA plus and silk PLA as well as many brands and colors. Natural PLA is better for the environment as it breaks down more naturally in the sun.
Next you need to try SLA printing.
Great idea! putting it in freezer. I'll try to remember that one when the problem arises again. I thought I was going to break the glass with one flat print.
I've been busy with other non speaker projects and putting off wrapping the wooden center sections in vinyl because I hadn't ever tried it before. It turned out to be not so bad once I got going after discovering knifeless tape for making seams.
This product will telegraph everything including the wood grain of the Baltic birch plywood I used. I painted them with some white primer with a foam roller and that wasn't smooth enough so I sanded almost all of it off which was a PITA with the primer I used which stays gummy forever as near as I can tell. It was a latex primer you use for painting walls. I might put a coat of poly on the rest of the boxes because if I try to peel up the vinyl to reposition it it will pull slivers of wood up and ruin the finish.
I bought this little kit which has a roll of knifeless tape and a squeegee. The seam on the bottom came out pretty well and with a little more practice might improve.
I'll see if I can find some of the video's I watched to learn how to apply it. This stuff looks good applied to a smooth and is really tough. It's made to wrap cars with and now I know how the local car dealer got the chrome finish on their van.
I finally got all the boxed wrapped and all the fronts and backs are printed. The vinyl wrap on the first couple of boxes don't have the best seams on the bottom and took some time but the later ones were better and went much faster.
One of my wife's little projects is cutting into my speaker building time. The previous owner of a rental house had cut up a beam to make head room for a hallway we ripped out. We want to finish off the basement as one big room so the cobbled beam needed to be replaced. The previous owner also cut the cold air returns which was repaired earlier.
looking great! I am anxious to see the woofer measurements and then the overall measurements when complete. The BMR drivers are pretty im[ressive for what they are.
Here are the woofer and tweeter measurements I took earlier.
This is the 1M response with merged woofer and port response.
I wanted to get a quick measurement so I could start putting the crossovers together so there's no internal treatment of the sides and plastic baffle and rear panel. They don't sound too bad as is but I expect them to sound better with a little work on the interior of the box.
I decided the plastic panels needed some damping so I bought some Crayola modeling clay. It's non toxic and they claim it will never dry out. I put a package between 2 sheets of wax paper with a pair of bamboo skewers as spacers and used a rolling pin to flatten the clay into a sheet about 1/8 inch thick. I then used some of the old supports from the 3D print as templates to cut pieces to fit the back of the panel.
I used the end of the Exacto knife to pushed the clay into the back of the panel.
It really damped out the ring that the thin plastic panels had before treatment. I got the idea from reading about using clay to damp frames of stamped steel drivers.
On my motocross bikes, I'll fill the handlebars with cheap silicone to reduce vibration. Buy a cheap tube of silicone, cut the tip off of the tube, put the tip into the handlebar, then squeeze the trigger until silicone comes out the other end of the bars. Bet that would also work with the printed panels. Simply fill the void with silicone.
I finished up one speaker and measured it. The picture exaggerates the texture on the 3D front panel and the color is off. It's really a darker navy blue and is a very close match to the vinyl wrap. Of the 3 colors I like the navy blue the best.
@tajanes said:
3d printer: but don't you miss the wood filler, sanding, and sawdust ? ha
looks great
Only the front and rear panels were 3D printed. The center section is Baltic birch wrapped in Vinyl so there was plenty of the fun stuff. These would have been done long ago had they been wood. I have learned a lot of new skills in the process and will certainly be printing more speaker parts in the future. I might even consider printing the center sections so I can miss all the wood working fun stuff. I really was a joy to mount all the drivers and terminals with perfectly sized cutouts, rebates and screw holes. Everything just fits.
I've had a few days listening with them hooked up to the TV and they sound good. When I've played music through them it's amazing how much bass they can provide for such a small package.
Comments
Many people pick a brand and a color and stick to it forever to help increase their print quality and efficiency.
I have used PLA plus and silk PLA as well as many brands and colors. Natural PLA is better for the environment as it breaks down more naturally in the sun.
Next you need to try SLA printing.
Great idea! putting it in freezer. I'll try to remember that one when the problem arises again. I thought I was going to break the glass with one flat print.
This is what happens when the Bowden tube comes loose on one end. Fortunately the printer came with spare parts to fix it with.
Ron
looks like my old (mid to late 70's) Blue Star nylon tennis strings
Looks like your weed-eater head blew apart . . .
The parts that came with it are garbage. Pick up some better parts and your life will be much better.
That's what I heard on the internet. I have hopefully better replacements on order.
Ron
Are you going to be at InDIYana? Anything you need. I probably have extras.
Thanks for the offer but I won't be in InDIYana.
Ron
I've been busy with other non speaker projects and putting off wrapping the wooden center sections in vinyl because I hadn't ever tried it before. It turned out to be not so bad once I got going after discovering knifeless tape for making seams.
Ron
That looks clean and neat as a finish - got any more details concerning product and application technique, Ron_E?
(BTW - is the hearing protection to mask your frustrations?)
I used VViVid vinyl wrap. It's the same vinyl that PE sells but Amazon has many more colors.
https://amazon.com/dp/B071ZQZLG5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
This product will telegraph everything including the wood grain of the Baltic birch plywood I used. I painted them with some white primer with a foam roller and that wasn't smooth enough so I sanded almost all of it off which was a PITA with the primer I used which stays gummy forever as near as I can tell. It was a latex primer you use for painting walls. I might put a coat of poly on the rest of the boxes because if I try to peel up the vinyl to reposition it it will pull slivers of wood up and ruin the finish.
I bought this little kit which has a roll of knifeless tape and a squeegee. The seam on the bottom came out pretty well and with a little more practice might improve.
https://amazon.com/dp/B07NVWB1LY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I'll see if I can find some of the video's I watched to learn how to apply it. This stuff looks good applied to a smooth and is really tough. It's made to wrap cars with and now I know how the local car dealer got the chrome finish on their van.
Ron
I finally got all the boxed wrapped and all the fronts and backs are printed. The vinyl wrap on the first couple of boxes don't have the best seams on the bottom and took some time but the later ones were better and went much faster.
One of my wife's little projects is cutting into my speaker building time. The previous owner of a rental house had cut up a beam to make head room for a hallway we ripped out. We want to finish off the basement as one big room so the cobbled beam needed to be replaced. The previous owner also cut the cold air returns which was repaired earlier.
Just one of several projects.
Ron
Ahhh yes, projects before projects. Can't get around that. Looks good, on both accounts.
Ready to measure one.
looking great! I am anxious to see the woofer measurements and then the overall measurements when complete. The BMR drivers are pretty im[ressive for what they are.
Here are the woofer and tweeter measurements I took earlier.
This is the 1M response with merged woofer and port response.
I wanted to get a quick measurement so I could start putting the crossovers together so there's no internal treatment of the sides and plastic baffle and rear panel. They don't sound too bad as is but I expect them to sound better with a little work on the interior of the box.
Ron
That looks like it could be a very nice mini monitor.
I built something similar for my wife to use as computer speakers. They sound pretty good.
Ron
I'll be curious to see what ones you like best.
Finally got all the crossovers together.
Ron
I decided the plastic panels needed some damping so I bought some Crayola modeling clay. It's non toxic and they claim it will never dry out. I put a package between 2 sheets of wax paper with a pair of bamboo skewers as spacers and used a rolling pin to flatten the clay into a sheet about 1/8 inch thick. I then used some of the old supports from the 3D print as templates to cut pieces to fit the back of the panel.
I used the end of the Exacto knife to pushed the clay into the back of the panel.
It really damped out the ring that the thin plastic panels had before treatment. I got the idea from reading about using clay to damp frames of stamped steel drivers.
Ron
Way cool and cheaper than Sorbothane . . .
https://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Acoustic-Vibration-Adhesive/dp/B019NZHRBM/ref=asc_df_B019NZHRBM?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588709214&hvnetw=&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589115207893&psc=1
On my motocross bikes, I'll fill the handlebars with cheap silicone to reduce vibration. Buy a cheap tube of silicone, cut the tip off of the tube, put the tip into the handlebar, then squeeze the trigger until silicone comes out the other end of the bars. Bet that would also work with the printed panels. Simply fill the void with silicone.
This is what I used. It was $7.35 when I bought it and unfortunately I'm going to need just a little more.
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B011EG5KTO/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ron
Self leveling urethane caulk works pretty good as well.
I finished up one speaker and measured it. The picture exaggerates the texture on the 3D front panel and the color is off. It's really a darker navy blue and is a very close match to the vinyl wrap. Of the 3 colors I like the navy blue the best.
I might bring a pair to Iowa.
Ron
3d printer: but don't you miss the wood filler, sanding, and sawdust ? ha
looks great
Only the front and rear panels were 3D printed. The center section is Baltic birch wrapped in Vinyl so there was plenty of the fun stuff. These would have been done long ago had they been wood. I have learned a lot of new skills in the process and will certainly be printing more speaker parts in the future. I might even consider printing the center sections so I can miss all the wood working fun stuff. I really was a joy to mount all the drivers and terminals with perfectly sized cutouts, rebates and screw holes. Everything just fits.
I've had a few days listening with them hooked up to the TV and they sound good. When I've played music through them it's amazing how much bass they can provide for such a small package.
Ron
@ Ron_E said: It really was a joy to mount all the drivers and terminals with perfectly sized cutouts, rebates and screw holes.
I can only imagine...