Try scaling something up near max what your bed can fit and spiralize some PETG. It gets all wibbly-wobbly, and is way more flexible and durable than you'd think. Even with a .4 nozzle!
It's all the same 5 color filament. The color of each print is dependent on where in the spool it starts. The small objects use so little filament that the color hardly changes unlike the largest print that almost cycles through all 5 colors.
The Garolite G10 bed is fairly new to me and I just had my first failure when the print came off the bed shortly after it started printing. I turned up the bed temp from 50 to 60 degrees and it's almost halfway through the print and it's still printing. I'm printing a Christmas tree that starts with a snow flake pattern that twists as it goes up. The base is pretty minimal and has substantial gaps so there's not much of a first layer to stick to the bed.
This is what the tree is supposed to look like when it's done.
Terminate the print at 45% of the vertical height and put it behind a midbass/mid driver inside the enclosure with loose damping material around the perimeter & rear - take some measurements then sell me a pair for New Years?
Ron that table under those prints is amazing. I love the Greene and Greene vibes.
I would advise you to try a mirror for your print bed. The super smooth surface provides good adhesion and after the bed has cooled the prints naturally release. The mirror also lets you do a nice visual on the hot end without having to raise the Z axis. The mirror is also really hard to scratch and there is no telegraphing from the previous prints. It might also be the most inexpensive bed that you can buy. I hope this helps.
@kenrhodes said:
Ron that table under those prints is amazing. I love the Greene and Greene vibes.
I would advise you to try a mirror for your print bed. The super smooth surface provides good adhesion and after the bed has cooled the prints naturally release. The mirror also lets you do a nice visual on the hot end without having to raise the Z axis. The mirror is also really hard to scratch and there is no telegraphing from the previous prints. It might also be the most inexpensive bed that you can buy. I hope this helps.
I'm very happy with the G10 bed I just started using. That tree has very little surface area touching the bed. The white in this image is the footprint of the tree on the bed and the hex in the middle is only 3/8" across. The second print failed too but not because the print came off the bed. When it got near the top of the tree it turned into a swirly blob of solid plastic. I like my swirly ornaments over the tree so I'm back to printing more of them.
Couldn't resist the price of 159$ a while back, and I added the Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo to my lineup of printers:
It is both the easiest to assemble printer I've ever used, and it's remarkably fast (though not as fast as the new high-speed designs like Bambu Labs are doing. Still, for the price given it holds up reasonably well its a marked improvement in the hardware IMO. The Anycubic Cura profile it comes with is set to 120 mm/s printing (infill, 80mm walls, 150mm movement). and it sure zips. Here in the pic is it passing the torture test pretty well, but some fine detail is lost.
= Howard Stark: "This is the key to the future. I'm limited by the technology of my time, but one day you'll figure this out."
I ran across a video on the PE forum of a 3D printed speaker that some of you might be interested in. I didn't think the final finish looked all that good but I might try to use the filled mold trick. It would be easier than filling the panel with modeling clay like I did.
I had some sunlight to work with today and took a picture of some of my Christmas swirls. We had a winter solstice party and gave away 45 or more of various sizes.
I'm resurrecting this old 3D printer thread. Some of you guys are printing some cool stuff and got me wanting to design some parts for future builds. Thanks to a Christmas present from my brother, I should have an Ender 3 v3 Plus in the next few days. I spent way too much time this past week researching the new crop of machines and determined it's like asking people which car is the best value. Everybody has their favorite and some even say the others are total crap. In the end, almost any new printer on the market today will be faster than my original Ender 3. That was my biggest gripe with the process - that and the stupid onboard menu navigation.
Welcome to the 3D club. Be sure to check the calibration when you get it. I was having issues with my Ender 5 and discovered it was out of cal. I know I had calibrated it before but I think the settings got lost when I updated the firmware.
I bit the bullet and finally bought one few weeks ago. Odd as I like to build things and was into art as a child. Been cutting teeth on Fusion, made few things more for electronics projects, like a small preamp chassis. Will see how an ABS print for front and back that hold heatsinks for an amplifier works out - could be a fail, mainly as the heatsinks are heavy.
I went with Bambu X1carbon, was originally thinking P1P and Prusa, but my boss has the X1 and likes it. I didnt opt for the AMS color system figuring could add that later if desired. I just wanted something reliable and not have to fuss with. Had to be enclosed for ABS and other special filaments.
Planning to use to make baffle plate, a build up or contour of sorts, for the 'mid' (full ranger) of Woof-FR-Woof (MTM) for Indy25. Also to make same mid cups to retrofit 120mm frame seasL12's into 148mm cutout that had visaton waveguide in originally.
The new machine arrived yesterday and I printed the obligatory benchy boat. It turned out fine despite having the speed cranked up to warp 3. I also printed a mounting plate I designed for our Sennheiser wireless receivers. Stock settings in the slicer and it only took 45 minutes to print. It looks great, but this sample pla must shrink a tiny bit when cooling down because the 1/4-20 nuts don’t quite fit. They were an easy press fit when I first designed this for my original Ender 3 and basic pla.
Not quite sure what you mean, but this new printer seems pretty dialed in right out of the box compared to my original Ender 3 from 6 years ago. There are a few things I want to tweak, but my first 5 prints are all usable after a little trimming. The biggest issue for me is relearning CAD software.
Comments
Try scaling something up near max what your bed can fit and spiralize some PETG. It gets all wibbly-wobbly, and is way more flexible and durable than you'd think. Even with a .4 nozzle!
That is quite beautiful actually.
Duplicate/late post entry - removed.
Looks like chocolates and life is like a box of them; much better once you remove all the Rappers . . .
I printed some bigger Christmas ornaments. The big one is about a foot tall and weighs 2.5 ounces. It's as tall as my printer will go.
I'm really loving my new Garolite G10 bed. Once the bed cools I can just pick up the print.
Ron
The 2nd from the left is gorgeous. Which filament is that? The "gold red"?
It's all the same 5 color filament. The color of each print is dependent on where in the spool it starts. The small objects use so little filament that the color hardly changes unlike the largest print that almost cycles through all 5 colors.
https://amazon.com/dp/B0B6P8VBN2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Ron
The Garolite G10 bed is fairly new to me and I just had my first failure when the print came off the bed shortly after it started printing. I turned up the bed temp from 50 to 60 degrees and it's almost halfway through the print and it's still printing. I'm printing a Christmas tree that starts with a snow flake pattern that twists as it goes up. The base is pretty minimal and has substantial gaps so there's not much of a first layer to stick to the bed.
This is what the tree is supposed to look like when it's done.
Ron
Looks a bit like a turbine engine compressor blade assembly . . .
Terminate the print at 45% of the vertical height and put it behind a midbass/mid driver inside the enclosure with loose damping material around the perimeter & rear - take some measurements then sell me a pair for New Years?
Ron that table under those prints is amazing. I love the Greene and Greene vibes.
I would advise you to try a mirror for your print bed. The super smooth surface provides good adhesion and after the bed has cooled the prints naturally release. The mirror also lets you do a nice visual on the hot end without having to raise the Z axis. The mirror is also really hard to scratch and there is no telegraphing from the previous prints. It might also be the most inexpensive bed that you can buy. I hope this helps.
I'm very happy with the G10 bed I just started using. That tree has very little surface area touching the bed. The white in this image is the footprint of the tree on the bed and the hex in the middle is only 3/8" across. The second print failed too but not because the print came off the bed. When it got near the top of the tree it turned into a swirly blob of solid plastic. I like my swirly ornaments over the tree so I'm back to printing more of them.
Ron
Couldn't resist the price of 159$ a while back, and I added the Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo to my lineup of printers:
It is both the easiest to assemble printer I've ever used, and it's remarkably fast (though not as fast as the new high-speed designs like Bambu Labs are doing. Still, for the price given it holds up reasonably well its a marked improvement in the hardware IMO. The Anycubic Cura profile it comes with is set to 120 mm/s printing (infill, 80mm walls, 150mm movement). and it sure zips. Here in the pic is it passing the torture test pretty well, but some fine detail is lost.
My grille-fu grows stronger!
Printed in two pieces, epoxied together. Stretching & splining is still no fun, but it's worth it for the result!
Wow! That is great Dirk!
Looks outstanding, and gives the speaker a finished look.
Now I just gotta get the lint off of them from the wool haha
Totally dig those👍🏼
Wow - those look amazing. I think most people would ask where you bought those nice looking speakers!
I ran across a video on the PE forum of a 3D printed speaker that some of you might be interested in. I didn't think the final finish looked all that good but I might try to use the filled mold trick. It would be easier than filling the panel with modeling clay like I did.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1501932-3d-printed-speakers-vid
Ron
I had some sunlight to work with today and took a picture of some of my Christmas swirls. We had a winter solstice party and gave away 45 or more of various sizes.
Ron
That popped up on my YouTube feed, pretty neat.
Another expensive hobby I'd like to get into someday.
It will be my next purchase along with a lazer cutter/engraver.
https://www.jfcomponents.com/
I'm resurrecting this old 3D printer thread. Some of you guys are printing some cool stuff and got me wanting to design some parts for future builds. Thanks to a Christmas present from my brother, I should have an Ender 3 v3 Plus in the next few days. I spent way too much time this past week researching the new crop of machines and determined it's like asking people which car is the best value. Everybody has their favorite and some even say the others are total crap. In the end, almost any new printer on the market today will be faster than my original Ender 3. That was my biggest gripe with the process - that and the stupid onboard menu navigation.
Welcome to the 3D club. Be sure to check the calibration when you get it. I was having issues with my Ender 5 and discovered it was out of cal. I know I had calibrated it before but I think the settings got lost when I updated the firmware.
I've been printing flower pots for Christmas.
I bit the bullet and finally bought one few weeks ago. Odd as I like to build things and was into art as a child. Been cutting teeth on Fusion, made few things more for electronics projects, like a small preamp chassis. Will see how an ABS print for front and back that hold heatsinks for an amplifier works out - could be a fail, mainly as the heatsinks are heavy.
I went with Bambu X1carbon, was originally thinking P1P and Prusa, but my boss has the X1 and likes it. I didnt opt for the AMS color system figuring could add that later if desired. I just wanted something reliable and not have to fuss with. Had to be enclosed for ABS and other special filaments.
Planning to use to make baffle plate, a build up or contour of sorts, for the 'mid' (full ranger) of Woof-FR-Woof (MTM) for Indy25. Also to make same mid cups to retrofit 120mm frame seasL12's into 148mm cutout that had visaton waveguide in originally.
The new machine arrived yesterday and I printed the obligatory benchy boat. It turned out fine despite having the speed cranked up to warp 3. I also printed a mounting plate I designed for our Sennheiser wireless receivers. Stock settings in the slicer and it only took 45 minutes to print. It looks great, but this sample pla must shrink a tiny bit when cooling down because the 1/4-20 nuts don’t quite fit. They were an easy press fit when I first designed this for my original Ender 3 and basic pla.
I was just wondering about printing threads. Usually works pretty good?
Not quite sure what you mean, but this new printer seems pretty dialed in right out of the box compared to my original Ender 3 from 6 years ago. There are a few things I want to tweak, but my first 5 prints are all usable after a little trimming. The biggest issue for me is relearning CAD software.