After I damaged mine I read that you should hold the block that nozzle threads into so you don't damage it. I put a Swiss Micro direct drive on and I love it.
Well, I've taken the "MDF glued to PLA" idea about as far as it can go. There's still a slight trace of the joint, and no amount of spot putty is really blending it away. I think I'm fighting humidity and temperature. Practically speaking, it's not a big deal, and probably one of those "a craftsman sees their own flaws" sorts of things. Unless you catch it in the light 18" from your nose, you can't see it.
NOW...on to the grilles. I'll be fabric-wrapping, and attaching the grille cloth in place with a spline. Might dye it, too, but we'll see how white looks. Do I put a super shallow chamfer along the inside, or do I hard 90 it and leave room for wool felt to absorb the reflection?
@Dirk said:
Do I put a super shallow chamfer along the inside, or do I hard 90 it and leave room for wool felt to absorb the reflection?
Do the shallow chamfer AND use wool felt. I did that on a 3 way with grills. The felt is very effective. I used 1/2" thick F13 felt from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/product/87555K541
Probably cheaper places to purchase felt from though.
I was working on an enclosure for a PS95. Everything looked like it was going well when I went to be last night. Got up to this mess this morning. I adjusted the Z-offset ever so slightly and I'll see how it goes. I'm using an Anycubic Kobra.
@PWRRYD said:
Mike, any chance you will make it to Dakota DIY 2024?
Hi Craig, I'm going to try to be there. I'm retired now, so I have a lot of time to do what I want. Not sure if I'll bring any speakers, but it would be nice to hang out with fellow speaker geeks again.
@Tom_S said:
The one thing that worked every time with my Ender 3 was using a glue stick. I didn't need to use a lot, but it made a huge difference for me.
I replaced the print surface. It looks like all is good, although it's a different project. This one didn't work on the previous surface. Any suggestions how to clean the print surface? It's sitting on the scraper; it's not a hanger...
How to clean the print surface depends on what's on there. If you're using something like a PEI sheet, then a quick wipe down with isopropyl will remove any oils you've deposited. That made all the difference in the world with my wife's Prusa.
I use glue stick on my boro glass plates to aid with PLA adhesion & release, so those get cleaned with tap water when I refresh the glue layer (which isn't every print). If I'm printing PETG on the glass, I use hairspray. When removing / refreshing the hair spray, I use denatured (methyl) alcohol.
I got a Nautilus file to print well, so I'm going to stick some small computer speakers in them, just for the fun of it. Not expecting any sound quality, just a fun thing to do.
I'm printing Christmas ornaments using multicolor silk PLA. This print is too small for the filament to change colors. There's a spiralize function in Cura that prints just the outer shell in one continuous stream so the ornament ends up being very smooth, somewhat fragile and very light.
Comments
After I damaged mine I read that you should hold the block that nozzle threads into so you don't damage it. I put a Swiss Micro direct drive on and I love it.
I wouldn't doubt that actually, but it is both beyond my skill/tool set and at some point how much effort to save a 25$ part?
Yeah, for $25 probably not worth the effort, but it's in my nature to fix everything.
Jason, you should be able to replace the heat block and not the whole hot end. This should get the cost down to about $10.
Agreed. Especially if you already have a tap, no brainer.
Well, I've taken the "MDF glued to PLA" idea about as far as it can go. There's still a slight trace of the joint, and no amount of spot putty is really blending it away. I think I'm fighting humidity and temperature. Practically speaking, it's not a big deal, and probably one of those "a craftsman sees their own flaws" sorts of things. Unless you catch it in the light 18" from your nose, you can't see it.
NOW...on to the grilles. I'll be fabric-wrapping, and attaching the grille cloth in place with a spline. Might dye it, too, but we'll see how white looks. Do I put a super shallow chamfer along the inside, or do I hard 90 it and leave room for wool felt to absorb the reflection?
(don't judge the on-screen color)
Dirk, I don't think I would have noticed the transition unless you told me where to look.
Do the shallow chamfer AND use wool felt. I did that on a 3 way with grills. The felt is very effective. I used 1/2" thick F13 felt from McMaster-Carr:
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/87555K541
Probably cheaper places to purchase felt from though.
Woolous on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Woolous-Wool-Felt-Strip-roll/dp/B07CVMPPTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3K6XCSGYKTYHQ&keywords=self+adhesive+wool+felt&qid=1687043869&sprefix=self+adhesive+wool+felt,aps,4352&sr=8-3
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
I was working on an enclosure for a PS95. Everything looked like it was going well when I went to be last night. Got up to this mess this morning. I adjusted the Z-offset ever so slightly and I'll see how it goes. I'm using an Anycubic Kobra.
Oh that's rough, Mike
I was printing something much smaller last week, but looked just like that on a smaller scale.
Hi Mike! Good to see you're still around and still DIY'n.
Bed adhesion failure, hate that. I've had that a few times.
Yikes!
Been there, done that.
I tried a few different things, so I don't know if it's the printer, the design, or the operator. Moving on to something different.
Mike, any chance you will make it to Dakota DIY 2024?
The one thing that worked every time with my Ender 3 was using a glue stick. I didn't need to use a lot, but it made a huge difference for me.
Hi Craig, I'm going to try to be there. I'm retired now, so I have a lot of time to do what I want. Not sure if I'll bring any speakers, but it would be nice to hang out with fellow speaker geeks again.
Can you explain?
Thanks
I replaced the print surface. It looks like all is good, although it's a different project. This one didn't work on the previous surface. Any suggestions how to clean the print surface? It's sitting on the scraper; it's not a hanger...
How to clean the print surface depends on what's on there. If you're using something like a PEI sheet, then a quick wipe down with isopropyl will remove any oils you've deposited. That made all the difference in the world with my wife's Prusa.
I use glue stick on my boro glass plates to aid with PLA adhesion & release, so those get cleaned with tap water when I refresh the glue layer (which isn't every print). If I'm printing PETG on the glass, I use hairspray. When removing / refreshing the hair spray, I use denatured (methyl) alcohol.
I got a Nautilus file to print well, so I'm going to stick some small computer speakers in them, just for the fun of it. Not expecting any sound quality, just a fun thing to do.
Neato!!
Cool! How big is the opening?
Now this is a serious machine!
Robots building robots . . .
I'm printing Christmas ornaments using multicolor silk PLA. This print is too small for the filament to change colors. There's a spiralize function in Cura that prints just the outer shell in one continuous stream so the ornament ends up being very smooth, somewhat fragile and very light.
https://amazon.com/dp/B0B6P8VBN2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Ron