Would lose a little bit of internal volume, but might be able to use the existing pieces by trimming down the height and squeeze them in flush with the sides. Would probably want to cut driver holes before that so you can get your hand in there to push/pull the final piece into place.
@DrewsBrews said:
Would lose a little bit of internal volume, but might be able to use the existing pieces by trimming down the height and squeeze them in flush with the sides. Would probably want to cut driver holes before that so you can get your hand in there to push/pull the final piece into place.
I plan to put some 1 1/8" square pieces of MDF stair tread along the inside edge of the box for the front panel so I can put a big 45 degree chamfer on the fronts so I don't want to try to recess the existing pieces. Your comment did give me the idea to glue a narrow piece of plywood to the pieces I have.
Today I started getting ready to glue the backs and fronts on. I also worked on some of the bracing for the sides, tops and bottoms.
I had cut dado's for 1" by 1/4" Baltic birch strips into the sides. It stiffens up the sides and I also use small blocks of 1/4" birch inserted into the dados at the corners to register the sides when I'm gluing the sides together. Corner clamps don't always leave the edges in alignment.
The fronts and backs are cut slightly oversized. To keep them from shifting around I place the top or bottom face down on the bench, put the box on top, align them to each other and put a small block in each corner with double stick tape. That way when I clamp them they don't float around on the glue. I normally remove the blocks after the clamps are on and reuse them.
I use denim everywhere except where I need to cut a hole. I use high density foam in the places that need holes because you can actually cut a hole in it. The denim is really tough to cut.
I've started veneering the cabinets. In a previous build with 45 degree chamfers I set my work bench top at 45 degrees so I could apply finish to the chamfers without it running. I planned to do the same thing to apply the veneer. This is what happens if your fence isn't tall enough.
I'd actually wiggled the cabinets when I'd set them on the stand and they seemed OK. I was getting the stuff ready to apply glue with when they both rolled off onto the floor almost simultaneously. Thankfully they landed on a very heavy rubber mat and while I can see some black marks on the corners where they hit there aren't any dings.
I grabbed a 2x4 to make the fence taller and while I was tightening the clamps the table moved. I surmise that the weight of the speakers tipped the top of the table past the 45 degrees it was set at and beyond the center of gravity for the cabinets. I reset the table top and made sure the adjusting handles were good and tight.
On goes a coat of Watco Danish oil. I really like the Sapele veneer except the part where some idiot decided the backup layer of the NBL veneer should be white. I'm just going to tell everyone that it's an inlay.
Sucks if it isn't what you want, but it does highlight the geometry in an interesting way.
I have heard of folks using stain with an art brush to spot tint areas to blend in better. Seems to be used when refinishing furniture that has some blemishes but the original finish isn't realistic/feasible to totally remove before coating over. But that would take a pretty steady hand.
Comments
Would lose a little bit of internal volume, but might be able to use the existing pieces by trimming down the height and squeeze them in flush with the sides. Would probably want to cut driver holes before that so you can get your hand in there to push/pull the final piece into place.
++ on your corner clamps
Been there, done that (multi[le times). Comforting to know even the craftsmen make mistakes.
I plan to put some 1 1/8" square pieces of MDF stair tread along the inside edge of the box for the front panel so I can put a big 45 degree chamfer on the fronts so I don't want to try to recess the existing pieces. Your comment did give me the idea to glue a narrow piece of plywood to the pieces I have.
Ron
Today I started getting ready to glue the backs and fronts on. I also worked on some of the bracing for the sides, tops and bottoms.
I had cut dado's for 1" by 1/4" Baltic birch strips into the sides. It stiffens up the sides and I also use small blocks of 1/4" birch inserted into the dados at the corners to register the sides when I'm gluing the sides together. Corner clamps don't always leave the edges in alignment.
The fronts and backs are cut slightly oversized. To keep them from shifting around I place the top or bottom face down on the bench, put the box on top, align them to each other and put a small block in each corner with double stick tape. That way when I clamp them they don't float around on the glue. I normally remove the blocks after the clamps are on and reuse them.
Ron
I cut holes for the drivers. I almost cut a tweeter hole on the wrong end. I'm really glad I double checked before I started cutting.
Impressive cuts with the DeWalt
Thanks. I used a metric Jasper jig and router for the woofer cutout.
Ron
The jig saw is the devil's wood working tool...
It often allows me to put a square peg in a round hole...
I did some more work on bracing and glued on the backs this morning.
Ron
More progress.
Ron
Looks great Ron! I really like how you did the large chamfers on the baffle sides.
Is there something special about the green foam?
I use denim everywhere except where I need to cut a hole. I use high density foam in the places that need holes because you can actually cut a hole in it. The denim is really tough to cut.
Ron
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks.
OK - now I understand what I took for cleats along the sides but not on the top or bottom. Pretty slick!
I've started veneering the cabinets. In a previous build with 45 degree chamfers I set my work bench top at 45 degrees so I could apply finish to the chamfers without it running. I planned to do the same thing to apply the veneer. This is what happens if your fence isn't tall enough.
I'd actually wiggled the cabinets when I'd set them on the stand and they seemed OK. I was getting the stuff ready to apply glue with when they both rolled off onto the floor almost simultaneously. Thankfully they landed on a very heavy rubber mat and while I can see some black marks on the corners where they hit there aren't any dings.
Ron
Oh man, my heart just skipped (or missed) a beat when I saw that pic!!!
I grabbed a 2x4 to make the fence taller and while I was tightening the clamps the table moved. I surmise that the weight of the speakers tipped the top of the table past the 45 degrees it was set at and beyond the center of gravity for the cabinets. I reset the table top and made sure the adjusting handles were good and tight.
Ron
Those cabs look great, and built like a tank ! Have you weighed them ?
Ron's work is always impeccable. Look forward to hearing and seeing these in a few weeks.
17 pounds.
Veneer is on.
Ron
On goes a coat of Watco Danish oil. I really like the Sapele veneer except the part where some idiot decided the backup layer of the NBL veneer should be white. I'm just going to tell everyone that it's an inlay.
Ron
Man oh man, what a surprise! I now know that "no black lines" veneer does not mean "no white lines".
Eesh!
Sucks if it isn't what you want, but it does highlight the geometry in an interesting way.
I have heard of folks using stain with an art brush to spot tint areas to blend in better. Seems to be used when refinishing furniture that has some blemishes but the original finish isn't realistic/feasible to totally remove before coating over. But that would take a pretty steady hand.
thin layer of felt both sides of the tweeter going to ~baffle edge (if that's the tw end?)
What's up with the signal generator on the wire shelf? Does it work? For sale?
Looks like a HP distortion meter.
I like the fine white line look. Beautiful work Ron.