Question, why does PE show the sensitivity for the NE225-8 at 87.5 and the 4 ohm one at 87.1? Shouldn't the 4 ohm one have an higher sensitivity (usually)?
I'm very interested in this. Especially since I sorta have this driver set in a traditional 3-way, only with the NLA Charlie Brown Usher instead of the Vifa.
I prefer the rounded top. There's a lot you can do aesthetically with an open baffle.
I really regret not hearing your little open baffle at DDIY or Grinnell. In retrospect, I wish I had brought my NOLA knockoff instead of that Hivi kit debacle.
I envision the yellowish part being a light colored solid hardwood like maple and the brown parts being solid walnut or mahogany. The woofer enclosure will be black Duratex (I won 6 quarts of black at Iowa).
Tom S tried to listen to them Sat night at the hotel informal. It was too bad it was so loud in there. He really couldn't hear how they sounded.
What I could hear, I really liked! You pulled off the swap from ND woofer to the Peerless TC perfectly. I would love to hear them in a near-field configuration. If you PM me the crossover, I'll build a pair once I'm done building some acoustic treatment panels for my man-cave.
It looks like you're gonna have some serious thump with this one. I'm not well versed on open baffles. Would having the semi-circular top exacerbate diffraction artifacts with the mid driver or is that not as much of an issue with this type of design?
Here's a first pass. I did not try to fold this into your box dims, but the volume is the same. I can fold it later if you want to try first. F3 of 30 Hz seems pretty good compared to a std box.
The sim is theoretical and includes stuffing. The crap above 300 hz is port and box resonances "leaving" the port. Other than the trend, I ignore most of this.
Stuffing between the driver and port can also help damp down any spikes but it can kill the port output.
Note that this is the same size (maybe a bit smaller) as your bass reflex box. If you not like it you remove a center divider.
John, I really appreciate you working on a MLTL for me, but I think I'll go for the standard BR design.
Flame suit on here: I've heard numerous MLTL's and never really felt they sounded any better than regular bass reflex designs with the same driver and roughly same enclosure volume. In fact my "Agendas" project used a RS225-8 in a MLTL design Paul K. did for me. It seemed to have too much energy in the 40 Hz area, then again around 200 Hz no matter what room it was in.
I heard Chis Romeors design last weekend which used the same NE225W-04 woofer in a standard BR enclosure, roughly the same volume I am looking at doing. I thought that project had a very nice bass response.
I tend to agree that there's not much advantage with most drivers. This one clearly gave a 5 Hz drop. My thought is with a single fold you can pull the center divider. I'll sketch a concept.
I don't care if you don't use it, I enjoy the design process.
I'm Cad less tonight, so old school. If you dare to go this way I'm sure in Cad I could figure out a slanted top. My unibox F3 was 35.6 Hz, this sim was 30.6 Hz.
I'm happy to help, you just happen to hit me when I've got some time.
For my Aperivox build, I made the bottom of the box removable. So between the bottom access and the woofer hole access, I bolted the box to the front baffle with lag bolts. It helped that the baffle was almost 2 inches thick.
One of the tricky parts was lining up the port hole. There's probably a easier way but I ended up bolting the unassembled box front to the front baffle, installing the port tube, then drilling a pilot hole and routing everything flush. After that I took everything apart assembled, box, painted, etc.,pita.
btw, before the glue up I was able to to route a groove in the wood to hide the wires to the mid.
Comments
Here are a couple of ideas I'm considering. This will be using the Vifa NE225W-04, Tang Band W4-1320SIF, and RS28A or F.
Thoughts?
I prefer the rounded top. There's a lot you can do aesthetically with an open baffle.
I really regret not hearing your little open baffle at DDIY or Grinnell. In retrospect, I wish I had brought my NOLA knockoff instead of that Hivi kit debacle.
Could do a MLTL
OD
10" wide
24" high
10-14" deep
It looks like you're gonna have some serious thump with this one. I'm not well versed on open baffles. Would having the semi-circular top exacerbate diffraction artifacts with the mid driver or is that not as much of an issue with this type of design?
I think if you used 12dB slopes and a knee tweak that it could still work depending on the room and baffle interaction.
InDIYana Event Website
Stuffing between the driver and port can also help damp down any spikes but it can kill the port output.
Note that this is the same size (maybe a bit smaller) as your bass reflex box. If you not like it you remove a center divider.
Flame suit on here: I've heard numerous MLTL's and never really felt they sounded any better than regular bass reflex designs with the same driver and roughly same enclosure volume. In fact my "Agendas" project used a RS225-8 in a MLTL design Paul K. did for me. It seemed to have too much energy in the 40 Hz area, then again around 200 Hz no matter what room it was in.
I heard Chis Romeors design last weekend which used the same NE225W-04 woofer in a standard BR enclosure, roughly the same volume I am looking at doing. I thought that project had a very nice bass response.
I tend to agree that there's not much advantage with most drivers. This one clearly gave a 5 Hz drop. My thought is with a single fold you can pull the center divider. I'll sketch a concept.
I don't care if you don't use it, I enjoy the design process.
I'm happy to help, you just happen to hit me when I've got some time.
One of the tricky parts was lining up the port hole. There's probably a easier way but I ended up bolting the unassembled box front to the front baffle, installing the port tube, then drilling a pilot hole and routing everything flush. After that I took everything apart assembled, box, painted, etc.,pita.
btw, before the glue up I was able to to route a groove in the wood to hide the wires to the mid.