Here are the installed baffles, super-duper carefully flush trimmed and rounded over. I've had other projects that used hickory or oak baffles that ended up as firewood because of router tear out mishaps...
What did the hangers connect to? I was expecting to see a sub-baffle. And what finish do you have planned? I think I like Danish oil the best out of several oak projects I've done.
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
I have done sub-baffles on previous projects. I have also done little triangles glued in the corners as attachment points. The sub-baffles work the best because there is lots of glue surface to the top/sides/bottom. But they take up air volume and make the overall boxes even bigger. The little triangles have worked ok, but you have to be careful not to crank on the bolts or they can break loose. On this project I kind of did a half way in between. There are three 1.5" wide braces that span from side to side, sitting just a 1/16" recessed. One is all the way at the top, one at the bottom, and one centered right between the drivers. I used the saber saw to scalped them so that they don't interfere with the backside of the drivers. Theseworked out very well. I'll be removing the baffles today for sanding and finish so I'll snap a picture of the braces and post it.
I personally don't care for the look of the truncated flats positioned on the top and bottom. I think they look better on the sides (skinnier profile). I do have the woofer frame overlapping the tweeter flange by about 3/16ths . Besides, at a lowerish crossover point another 1/8" doesn't really matter.
True, the 32 will allow a lower xover point, but it was 'just a thought'. I honestly forgot it was a trunky-frame, but I'm of the opposite preference where I don't like one screw on the bottom in most cases.
I experimented a little bit tonight with different finishes on some scrap pieces. I think I found what I like. Neither the oak veneer or the hardwood baffles need any stain. They both have a nice color when a little oil is applied. And the oil makes the grain pop.
The corundum tweeter has that huge/deep heat sink sticking out its backside. There just wasn't a good spot to place the port up high behind the tweeter. If I moved the port up from where it's at now it would be firing right at the back of the woofer cone, not good.
There will be a 1" layer of denim between the back of the woofer cone and the entrance to the port to minimize midrange leakage out the port.
The only thing I don't like about where the port is located is where I will be able to mount the binding posts. I'll probably mount them about half way up. That way the speaker cable won't be draped right in front of the port.
Start with 1/3 each. If you want faster drying time increase turpentine, if you want more oily finish add blo and if you want more of a poly finish add poly.
Those are looking great! Craig! I know you have said you don't really love building the boxes anymore, but I can't imagine any prefab affordable boxes being close to the quality you have been turning out.
Why didn't you put the port to one side and the terminals on the other? Cabs look great! Care to share your recipe for the finish?
Not a bad idea! Since the port is already centered I think I'll place the binding posts to one side of the port. Plenty of room back there and who really cares if everything is centered on a vertical line. I'll make the two enclosures mirror images of each other.
Start with 1/3 each. If you want faster drying time increase turpentine, if you want more oily finish add blo and if you want more of a poly finish add poly.
Yes exactly! I got the idea from DaveFred's post on PETT. 1:1:1 ratio. He uses satin poly. I like a bit more sheen so I use gloss poly. I apply it heavily with a foam brush and let it soak in for an hour. Then wipe off what hasn't soaked in with an old T-shirt. Next day rub it very lightly with 0000 steel wool just to knock off any dust nibs. Then apply another coat just like the first.
Those are looking great! Craig! I know you have said you don't really love building the boxes anymore, but I can't imagine any prefab affordable boxes being close to the quality you have been turning out.
Thanks for the compliment Tom. It's funny because I still enjoy using the table saw and gluing and clamping up boxes. It's routering the drivers' rebates and all the sanding and finishing steps that has become more "chore" like
Well I suppose some might not like my taste... they actually look like real wood, blems and all. The two baffles don't match perfectly. Some folks might think they're a bit too satin or a bit too glossy. I like them, that's all that matters.
Start with 1/3 each. If you want faster drying time increase turpentine, if you want more oily finish add blo and if you want more of a poly finish add poly.
Yes exactly! I got the idea from DaveFred's post on PETT. 1:1:1 ratio. He uses satin poly. I like a bit more sheen so I use gloss poly. I apply it heavily with a foam brush and let it soak in for an hour. Then wipe off what hasn't soaked in with an old T-shirt. Next day rub it very lightly with 0000 steel wool just to knock off any dust nibs. Then apply another coat just like the first.
And what do you think of the finish? I like that it is dumb dumb simple to apply .
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And what finish do you have planned? I think I like Danish oil the best out of several oak projects I've done.
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
There will be a 1" layer of denim between the back of the woofer cone and the entrance to the port to minimize midrange leakage out the port.
The only thing I don't like about where the port is located is where I will be able to mount the binding posts. I'll probably mount them about half way up. That way the speaker cable won't be draped right in front of the port.
Thanks for the compliment Tom. It's funny because I still enjoy using the table saw and gluing and clamping up boxes. It's routering the drivers' rebates and all the sanding and finishing steps that has become more "chore" like
And what do you think of the finish? I like that it is dumb dumb simple to apply