I have this posted on tech talk, but I thought that this might bring a smile to those who haven't seen it, or at least have some of you shaking your head and asking WHY?
I used to answer the "why" questions, now I just do what I do. You do great work, sir. Innovative aesthetics and your design chops are just fine as well. Keep it up.
My voicing may not be to everyones liking, but I like to think that the integration is always good. As for inspiration, I just see things around me and use them. These obviously came from the cartoon, and the americana's were modeled from a popcorn machine. I like to use interesting shapes that will be a challenge for me to build. I understand that rectangles are the most convient to build, but I like building different shapes. That being said I have an old school 3 way 12 inch monkey coffin drawn up, so never say never.
I'm pretty sure Nick's an electrician. A smarter career choice - the electricians & plumbers I've met make more money than most of us mid-level, mid-market creatives!
Ah yes, the Ankeny black out-good times! Yeah I'm an electrician, I went to college for electronics, but this pays better. I have always been a builder, bikes, cars, speakers, electronics....you know.....stuff.
The holes get hair. I tried multiple sizes and materials, I took a thorough ass kicking on this whole build, many failures. I like to think that my mechanical skills are decent, but i'm certainly no sculptor.
Well these are covered in clear, before I paint the mouth. I bought an airbrush and auto air colors paint to use for the mouth, my thought is that if I flub the mouth, I can still remove it and have a do over, so this coat of clear is actually an intercoat. I have also decided to start working on the overalls before the final clear, just in case of scuffs from the denim.
Ani, because there is a layer of clear, the mouth could be wet sanded off. 1000 grit would take it right off. This can be done repeatedly as long as you don't break through the clear and into the yellow, and actually while wet sanding if I see any yellow residue, it's time to stop and reapply the clear.
The whole thing gets a couple more coats of clear after the mouth is painted. In reality doing it this way is more work, because it all has to be sanded before recoating, but doing it this way afforded me unlimited time to paint the mouth, as there is no time window for paint cure that I have to meet.
I'm sorry Brad, this build started a long time ago on the PE forum. The drivers are a coax made from a Dayton RS100 and a SB14 tweeter from Mark at Meniscus, and a Dayton DSA135 in a bandpass, rear vented of coarse.
These probably could have been done as just the coax with the RS100 vented, but the original design was going to use a TB W3-881 full range with the DSA135 in the bandpass, because when I started these that SB tweeter didn't exist. When the tweeter appeared, Mark told me about it, I believe it was at MWAF, he sent me a pair and the project morphed into this.
Comments
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
As for inspiration, I just see things around me and use them. These obviously came from the cartoon, and the americana's were modeled from a popcorn machine. I like to use interesting shapes that will be a challenge for me to build. I understand that rectangles are the most convient to build, but I like building different shapes. That being said I have an old school 3 way 12 inch monkey coffin drawn up, so never say never.
I made a little progress they're in primer.![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/lu/zrnw5fzzeliy.jpg)
I shot these with sealer, and then noticed an oval hair hole that I missed filling. The hair took several attempts.![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/p4/d7y8rd66m5xs.jpg)
Hair???
We don't see no stinking hair! Or is there hair planned for the tops?
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
BANANA!!!!!......................................Um, I mean yellow.![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/5d/vhv8bxasewo3.jpg)
The holes get hair. I tried multiple sizes and materials, I took a thorough ass kicking on this whole build, many failures. I like to think that my mechanical skills are decent, but i'm certainly no sculptor.
Well these are covered in clear, before I paint the mouth. I bought an airbrush and auto air colors paint to use for the mouth, my thought is that if I flub the mouth, I can still remove it and have a do over, so this coat of clear is actually an intercoat. I have also decided to start working on the overalls before the final clear, just in case of scuffs from the denim.![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/di/tlbxn0weg99z.jpg)
how would you remove mouth color without repainting the body?
Ani, because there is a layer of clear, the mouth could be wet sanded off. 1000 grit would take it right off. This can be done repeatedly as long as you don't break through the clear and into the yellow, and actually while wet sanding if I see any yellow residue, it's time to stop and reapply the clear.
I wonder what it's like inside your mind ...
It's a scary place.
It's gotta be bananas in there....
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
Nice Ben!
Would you be putting down another of 3 layers or clear once you are satisfied with the air brushed mouth, or no required?
The whole thing gets a couple more coats of clear after the mouth is painted. In reality doing it this way is more work, because it all has to be sanded before recoating, but doing it this way afforded me unlimited time to paint the mouth, as there is no time window for paint cure that I have to meet.
Thanks Nick, this is a good thing. Not needing pro artist painters, undo process is always welcome!!!
Here's the bottom half, and the together.![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/gw/r5gnmea2i6q3.jpg)
![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/gc/6k2019sua2lo.jpg)
Those are pretty cool! Did I miss what driver is going in it?
I'm sorry Brad, this build started a long time ago on the PE forum. The drivers are a coax made from a Dayton RS100 and a SB14 tweeter from Mark at Meniscus, and a Dayton DSA135 in a bandpass, rear vented of coarse.![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/i8/y7kpluf5f4dp.jpg)
![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/0p/w958retn0l51.jpg)
![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/5s/0lt5kv8bao8i.jpg)
![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/s5/9enq9v5si963.jpg)
![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/on/1vaebwlspby6.jpg)
Here's a rear view, and a shot looking up inside to the bandpass.![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/0d/ywelzydq1qgg.jpg)
![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/z2/oqnbr03veinu.jpg)
![](https://diy.midwestaudio.club/uploads/editor/tj/q4ksbhwd7o8h.jpg)
These probably could have been done as just the coax with the RS100 vented, but the original design was going to use a TB W3-881 full range with the DSA135 in the bandpass, because when I started these that SB tweeter didn't exist. When the tweeter appeared, Mark told me about it, I believe it was at MWAF, he sent me a pair and the project morphed into this.
Now I see what’s going on. A 3-way, the ports in the perfect spot 😆. Awesome project.