That finish really looks nice, Ron! I noticed that you applied the wipe on poly in stages, doing the sides and baffles first and leaving the 45 degree angle chamfer without a finish (dry) until the last stage. I would think that this type of delayed finish application would create transistional marks from the dry to wet areas. But when I look at your finished speaker, I can see no signs of dry to wet transitioning. It all looks very smooth and continuous. How do you get it to blend so well? How long do you let the poly dry between applications?
I would start with the backs and set a 2 hour timer. After 2 hours the first coat will be tacky but it's safe to move the cabinet. I'd then do the top and 2 hours later rotate to do a side. By the time that side is dry it would be safe to put the cabinet on it's back and do the front. Two hours later and I could to the bottom and two hours later the remaining side. That would be enough for one day and I could start over.
I did the transition on the round overs by doing half the round over on both sides of a side. As soon as the coat was on I would wipe the transition edge with a paper towel which cleans up any runs and attempts to make the transition smooth. If I ended up with a run or a clear sign of the edge of the transition I'd lightly sand the offending run or ridge out and catch the sanded area when I did the next side. So the trick is to wipe the joint clean so the edge of the transition is no edge to unfinished. You could probably practice this on a scrap piece of wood. The trickiest part was the round overs on the chamfers. Any blemish was really obvious.
If I find a run on a flat surface I use my big chisel to cut it off and polish it out. It also takes out dust bumps.
I drove to Urbandale yesterday and picked up a couple of spools of Polymaker PolyLite PLA Pro. It was recommended by the clerk because it is supposed to be stronger and more heat resistant than standard PLA. I'm very impressed with how well it printed. The face is perfectly smooth and I've never had holes that printed as sharp before.
She loved her new speakers and couldn't wait to get them home.
Comments
That finish really looks nice, Ron! I noticed that you applied the wipe on poly in stages, doing the sides and baffles first and leaving the 45 degree angle chamfer without a finish (dry) until the last stage. I would think that this type of delayed finish application would create transistional marks from the dry to wet areas. But when I look at your finished speaker, I can see no signs of dry to wet transitioning. It all looks very smooth and continuous. How do you get it to blend so well? How long do you let the poly dry between applications?
I would start with the backs and set a 2 hour timer. After 2 hours the first coat will be tacky but it's safe to move the cabinet. I'd then do the top and 2 hours later rotate to do a side. By the time that side is dry it would be safe to put the cabinet on it's back and do the front. Two hours later and I could to the bottom and two hours later the remaining side. That would be enough for one day and I could start over.
I did the transition on the round overs by doing half the round over on both sides of a side. As soon as the coat was on I would wipe the transition edge with a paper towel which cleans up any runs and attempts to make the transition smooth. If I ended up with a run or a clear sign of the edge of the transition I'd lightly sand the offending run or ridge out and catch the sanded area when I did the next side. So the trick is to wipe the joint clean so the edge of the transition is no edge to unfinished. You could probably practice this on a scrap piece of wood. The trickiest part was the round overs on the chamfers. Any blemish was really obvious.
If I find a run on a flat surface I use my big chisel to cut it off and polish it out. It also takes out dust bumps.
Is that the same big ass chisel you sometimes use to trim veneer? Very handy tool if yes.
It is the same chisel. They are sometimes called framing slicks and are used for post and beam timber framing.
I drove to Urbandale yesterday and picked up a couple of spools of Polymaker PolyLite PLA Pro. It was recommended by the clerk because it is supposed to be stronger and more heat resistant than standard PLA. I'm very impressed with how well it printed. The face is perfectly smooth and I've never had holes that printed as sharp before.
She loved her new speakers and couldn't wait to get them home.
I can imagine🤘🏼 Nice work
You're making me itchy to buy a new, faster printer.
No round over, huh?
There is a 1/16th" 45 degree bevel.