I recieved my Mouser and PC order on Wednesday. I got all the caps I had ordered except for 2. I wanted to order some different caps for the values I didn't get so I sent them an email through their chat box on the website - I had 2 different people reply to my chat and it was cc'd to 3 people from their end. I placed my order yesterday and it shipped today. I will say that I am dealing with the Canadian branch of the company so maybe they are not as busy and can reply to emails quicker🤷♂️
A week later and not even a shipping notice, nor a reply to my answer to their email. The out of stock notification email had a physical address attached to it as Burlington, Ontario. I know things are not 'normal' right now, but PE, Mouser, Digi-key, Amazon, and ebay not only managed to get parts to me on time, they were able to communicate throughout the entire process, neither of which PartsConnexion has been able to do. Not a happy camper right now.
While you're in Lowes check out the Dewalt DW621 plunge router. I was told by a cabinet maker I respect that if you're only going to have one router, this is the one to own. Super smooth plunge, lots of power and exceptional dust collection. I've owned mine for several years and never regretted the investment.
HTH
Jim
One router! Blaspheme
What self-respecting woodworker has one router?
Having different routers with different properties just makes
the job easier and more enjoyable. I currently have 5 routers which is probably
more than I need and will do some consolidation as I find other routers I like
better.
The first router I bought in 1996 and still my favorite is
the Bosch 1613EVS. This is a 2Hp plunge style with variable speed and the best
depth adjustment system I have ever used. It has 1/8” step adjustments on the
rotary thing on the base plus a very accurate and well-marked fine adjustment
knob at the top. It has a simple and very effective spindle lock for one wrench
bit changes. It’s a well-built router but last year is started making loud
noises but all I needed to do was replace the spindle bearing and it’s like new
again. The down side is the opening in the base is only about 1-3/4 inches and
has a mechanism for holding Bosch brand guide bushings. If you find one of
these for sale for under $100 in good condition don’t hesitate to buy it you
will love it.
The other reason to have more than one router is if you have
a router table and for this application I have a Porter Cable 7518 “The wood eater”
I think it’s the most powerful router you can get that plugs into a 15Amp wall
socket. I have this mounted in a Rockler router lift (made by Jessem). If you don’t
have a shaper and want to router raised panel cabinet doors or large corner radii
on speakers this is the tool.
My latest edition to the fleet is the Dewalt DWP611PK. This
is a compact router that’s sold as a kit with a fixed and a plunge base.
What I like about this router is the power to weight ratio which
makes it easy to control especially with the fixed base doing edge profiles. It
has a clear plastic base with hole designed to except porter cable style guide
bushings and an LED light. The push button spindle lock for one wrench bit changes
works well.
The depth adjustment system is not that great – the rotary
stepped adjustment on the base has three settings that are ¼” apart (to coarse)
and one with a bolt and lock nut to create a user defined stop. The fine adjust
system has no markings on it which makes things just guess work that are not repeatable.
Dewalt has an opportunity to make this awesome if they improve
the depth adjustment and put the trigger on the plunge base hand grip.
“and the rest” like Gilligan’s Island
Bosch colt PR20ESVK – Someone at Bosch had a brain fart one
day and said what if we just changed the name from “Laminate trimmer to router”.
I like how light it is, and the ergonomics are great for some applications and
useless for others. The fine depth adjustment system is a joke – in fact it
wore out. I only keep this router because I want to use it in a CNC.
Makita RF1101Kit2 – Makita’s answer to the Porter
Cable 690. This version has the fixed and plunge base. This thing is built like
a tank and the motor is very smooth and quiet. Nice wood handles, good depth
adjust system and accepts porter cable style guide bushings. More powerful then
the Bosch 1613EVS and this is my go to router for my dovetail jig
I'm not far behind, Shawn! I have a Ridgid palm router, 2x Ryobi 1/2" collet 2HP plunge routers (one is in my circle jig), a Triton 3.25HP in the table, and my first router that is a 1/4" collet Craftsman that I never use anymore due to being worn out. Different applications, so that is my reasoning.
I am looking at getting a router table sometime and was looking at the big Triton. Do you have it in a lift or using the Triton controls to set depth? It seems to have the mechanism to control from the top of the table, but maybe not be as full featured as a router lift. Would like to know your thoughts.
Also any other big router suitable for router table. I current have a fixed/plunge base hitachi 2.25hp and a Makita mini router...
Shawn any more details on the porter cable one?
Was going to get the table top from rockler, but the lift can be as expensive as the router or more.
I do want to flush trim 1/8 to 1/4 material from 1-1.5" thick boards - hardwood, mdf, Baltic birch, so needs to be heavy duty. And this message to go all around the cabinet for laminated builds. Right now the mini router runs out of steam for remove 1/8 from 0.72" BB ply and the Hitachi is too wobbly handheld as the wall on which the router is sitting is only 1.5 inch wide.
Most people use a big Freud or Porter Cable in their tables.
I like my Triton a lot, but I don't have it in a lift. It's solidly mounted to a flat table, and the ratchet-lift on the router makes it really easy to adjust from a hand under the table, followed by the micro to dial it in, and then lock. The dust port works well. When you ratchet it up to the top setting, the shaft locks for bit changing above the table, and that is a nice feature. You don't need the springs in the upside down orientation. This is the only way I have used it, and it has enough power to throw your workpiece if you mistreat it. It has never failed to do the job, no matter the material I've run through it.
I have a old 2-hp Craftsmen Router with a variable speed dial. The plunge function was crap, so I cut off the handles and mounted it in a Grizzly router table with a homemade lift.
Those Triton 3.25 HP look like real beasts. I'm starting to understand that you need solid HP in a router, so it doesn't slow down, so you don't get the bit too hot and it burns the wood.
But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
big HP is big weight and wobbly... the palm routers are very easy to work with and handle with one hand and the work piece with one hand.... but they grin and burn through thicker and harder wood - MDF is fine, BB or bard wood is a bit of a struggle... hence looking to go to a router table....
I have a Triton on a Bosch router table and love it. I had to drill my own holes to mount it because none of the pre-drilled holes matched. I think it came with a crank to adjust from the top of the table so I drilled a hole for that too. I never use the crank because like Wolf said, the adjustments are really easily accessible when it's mounted. It's set up so the power switch is locked out in order to raise it to lock the spindle to change bits. It has a quick release knob to quickly move the depth up and down and when it's in the fully up position the spindle will lock by itself. There is another small knob for fine adjustments. It comes with instructions for setting it up specifically for table use.
Also any other big router suitable for router table. I current have a fixed/plunge base hitachi 2.25hp and a Makita mini router...
Shawn any more details on the porter cable one?
Was going to get the table top from rockler, but the lift can be as expensive as the router or more.
I do want to flush trim 1/8 to 1/4 material from 1-1.5" thick boards - hardwood, mdf, Baltic birch, so needs to be heavy duty. And this message to go all around the cabinet for laminated builds. Right now the mini router runs out of steam for remove 1/8 from 0.72" BB ply and the Hitachi is too wobbly handheld as the wall on which the router is sitting is only 1.5 inch wide.
I've been looking at a better router setup too and I was kind of surprised by the prices. By the time you get a badass table, lift and fence, you can be looking at $1000 without the router. On a positive note though (not sure if it's been mentioned in this thread yet), Rockler is offering 15% off a lot of items this month with code V20611. Probably won't get any router stuff, but I'm seriously considering that Incra 5000 sled for my table saw.
Right now, I have a cheap Craftsman benchtop router table, which works fine for what I use it for. However, it's either put away and I have to pull it out, or it's left out and in the way. Now that I have my table saw set up, I want to just install the router in an extension off the rails. And while I'm at it, why not add some cool accessories? Nope. Not at those prices.
Comments
One router! Blaspheme
What self-respecting woodworker has one router?
Having different routers with different properties just makes the job easier and more enjoyable. I currently have 5 routers which is probably more than I need and will do some consolidation as I find other routers I like better.
The first router I bought in 1996 and still my favorite is the Bosch 1613EVS. This is a 2Hp plunge style with variable speed and the best depth adjustment system I have ever used. It has 1/8” step adjustments on the rotary thing on the base plus a very accurate and well-marked fine adjustment knob at the top. It has a simple and very effective spindle lock for one wrench bit changes. It’s a well-built router but last year is started making loud noises but all I needed to do was replace the spindle bearing and it’s like new again. The down side is the opening in the base is only about 1-3/4 inches and has a mechanism for holding Bosch brand guide bushings. If you find one of these for sale for under $100 in good condition don’t hesitate to buy it you will love it.
The other reason to have more than one router is if you have a router table and for this application I have a Porter Cable 7518 “The wood eater” I think it’s the most powerful router you can get that plugs into a 15Amp wall socket. I have this mounted in a Rockler router lift (made by Jessem). If you don’t have a shaper and want to router raised panel cabinet doors or large corner radii on speakers this is the tool.
My latest edition to the fleet is the Dewalt DWP611PK. This is a compact router that’s sold as a kit with a fixed and a plunge base.
What I like about this router is the power to weight ratio which makes it easy to control especially with the fixed base doing edge profiles. It has a clear plastic base with hole designed to except porter cable style guide bushings and an LED light. The push button spindle lock for one wrench bit changes works well.
The depth adjustment system is not that great – the rotary stepped adjustment on the base has three settings that are ¼” apart (to coarse) and one with a bolt and lock nut to create a user defined stop. The fine adjust system has no markings on it which makes things just guess work that are not repeatable.
Dewalt has an opportunity to make this awesome if they improve the depth adjustment and put the trigger on the plunge base hand grip.
“and the rest” like Gilligan’s Island
Bosch colt PR20ESVK – Someone at Bosch had a brain fart one day and said what if we just changed the name from “Laminate trimmer to router”. I like how light it is, and the ergonomics are great for some applications and useless for others. The fine depth adjustment system is a joke – in fact it wore out. I only keep this router because I want to use it in a CNC.
Makita RF1101Kit2 – Makita’s answer to the Porter Cable 690. This version has the fixed and plunge base. This thing is built like a tank and the motor is very smooth and quiet. Nice wood handles, good depth adjust system and accepts porter cable style guide bushings. More powerful then the Bosch 1613EVS and this is my go to router for my dovetail jigInDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
Shawn any more details on the porter cable one?
Was going to get the table top from rockler, but the lift can be as expensive as the router or more.
I do want to flush trim 1/8 to 1/4 material from 1-1.5" thick boards - hardwood, mdf, Baltic birch, so needs to be heavy duty. And this message to go all around the cabinet for laminated builds. Right now the mini router runs out of steam for remove 1/8 from 0.72" BB ply and the Hitachi is too wobbly handheld as the wall on which the router is sitting is only 1.5 inch wide.
I like my Triton a lot, but I don't have it in a lift. It's solidly mounted to a flat table, and the ratchet-lift on the router makes it really easy to adjust from a hand under the table, followed by the micro to dial it in, and then lock. The dust port works well. When you ratchet it up to the top setting, the shaft locks for bit changing above the table, and that is a nice feature. You don't need the springs in the upside down orientation. This is the only way I have used it, and it has enough power to throw your workpiece if you mistreat it. It has never failed to do the job, no matter the material I've run through it.
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
Ron
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
I use a MasterCraft plunge router for most work. No complaints on that unit.
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tools/routers/performax-reg-2-hp-variable-speed-fixed-base-router-kit-with-table/2411462/p-1454046441313-c-10087.htm
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
https://www.parts-express.com/wavecor-tw022wa05-22mm-textile-dome-tweeter--298-1100
And this is the non ferrofluid version